D I N E W I S E WITH JASON WALSH
Insalata’s T ucked modestly along a busy traffic thoroughfare near the “hub,” connecting Sir Francis Drake Boulevard in Ross Valley with San Rafael at the Miracle Mile, it’s easy to miss one of Marin’s most celebrated restaurants: Insalata’s. That’s not to say the location isn’t instantly recognizable—the warm-yellow building with its lower facade framed by intense greenery, the exterior looks more Southern Europe than Central 415. The Mediterranean-influenced restaurant has over the years become “part of the scenery” in Marin in all the best ways. We visited on a recent Tuesday and, even midweek, the place was clamoring—even the takeout nook saw heavy foot traffic; reservations recommended. Our table for two was centrally located within a classic interior décor of warm woods, white linen and soft lighting. A company gathering was filling seats in the private event room, while a smattering of regulars—sans the ubiquitous plus ones—sat by themselves enjoying menu favorites beneath a familiar wall-sized painting of fresh persimmons. Cozy, in a word. The menu inspires to reflect the “warm spirit of the Mediterranean” with tapas, mezze and piccolo on the starters menu, while North African and Levantine spices and grilling techniques tease throughout the main courses. We started with an easy choice—the eggplant fries ($10), one of Insalata’s most-ordered staples (along with the fattoush salad). The crispy aubergine is served in steak-fry cuts with a mint cilantro chutney dipping sauce. (Glance around, you’ll see multiple tables enjoying same.) We also sampled the Moroccan lamb kefta ($15), which featured small meatballs in a tomato-based shakshuka sauce thickened by soft Greek goat cheese. Deliciously savory, though not for the spice-averse with paprika and cayenne in the mix, it’s served with a handful of grilled flatbread slices for dipping—great for sharing, or could easily satisfy as a main entrée. Insalata’s is longtime family-run by Heidi and Mark Krahling, who launched the restaurant in 1996, after chef Heidi honed her chops in such kitchens as Joyce Goldstein’s Square One in SF and Butler’s in Mill Valley. Their son, Joe Krahling, is now a partner and general manager; we found him busily working the room and recommending specials and favorites on the night of our visit.
Insalata’s lush, Mediterranean-style façade is a familiar sight in San Anselmo. [All photos by Emily Merrill Photography]
Warm woods, white linen and soft lighting.
62 NorthBaybiz
August 2024
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