Insalata’s 120 Sir Francis Drake Blvd., San Anselmo 415-457-7700 (restaurant) and 415-457-8223 (takeout) Insalatas.com
Lunch, Monday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Dinner, Friday and Saturday, 5 to 9 p.m.; Sunday to Thursday, 5 to 8:30 p.m. Brunch, Sunday, 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Takeout, daily, 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
Joe’s fellow Drake High School alum Taylor Carnes worked his way up over the years from valet to partner and executive chef. For a restaurant with such a broad profile, Insalata’s seems committed to its local roots. Carnes’ various promotions over the years proved well-deserved on our visit—our main courses were both highlights. The pan seared salmon ($33) is served with a smokey corn chowder and topped by an array of flavor-enhancers—from lightly grilled green onions and cherry tomatoes to cilantro and shatta (a Middle Did You Know? While “insalata” is indeed Italian for salad—an ideal name straight from Mediterranean Restaurant Branding 101— it’s actually in homage of Heidi’s late father, Italo Insalata. Eastern chili paste). The salmon was creamy rich and blended perfectly with the accompaniments. Just as satisfying was the wagyu bavette steak ($38), a savory flank-like cut matched tastily with a carrot soubise, or French cream sauce. Broccolini, crispy potato wedges, mushroom and a splash of salsa verde put this dish over the top. If you’ve got room, finish the night with the Pigs in Mud ($9), a decadent chocolate pudding served with shortbread. You won’t regret it. Unlike some of Marin’s more famous restaurants—those backed by celebrity chefs, musicians or national retail chains (looking at you, RH Marin!)—Insalata’s reputation is almost entirely grass roots. Outside of Heidi Krahling penning a pair of cookbooks and the Michelin guide awarding the restaurant a well-deserved Bib Gourmand, Insalata’s profile was built the old-fashioned way—by being consistently good for a very long time. Still is. u Jason Walsh is editor in chief of NorthBay biz magazine and northbaybiz.com. A North Bay native, he’s spent his career covering the news, lifestyles and people of Sonoma, Marin and Napa counties. When not up to his elbows in page proofs, you can find him and his family exploring all corners of the North Bay from their home base in Novato.
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The menu inspires to reflect the ‘warm spirit of the Mediterranean.’
August 2024
NorthBaybiz 63
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