Nova generacija ne oblači se samo za posao koji želi da obavlja već i za svet koji želi da oblikuje po sopstvenoj meri
The new generations don’t merely dress for the job they want to do, but also for the world that they want to shape according to their own style
You’ve heard of quiet luxury? Now it’s time for gentle power
Bottega Veneta uspeva da uravnoteži meku moć sa razigranošć u Bottega Veneta managed to balance soft power with playfulness štit. Žene koje su ulazile u tada domi- nantno muške industrije koristile su modu da zauzmu svoj prostor, osla- njajući se na prepoznatljive siluete: oversajz blejzere, naglašene strukove i stroge krojeve koji su slali jasnu poru- ku moći. Te siluete, nekada rezervisa- ne za sale za sastanke, danas postaju moćan izraz stava, identiteta i slobode. Ramena su i dalje široka, krojevi be- sprekorno precizni, ali poruka se pro- menila: moć više nije nametnuta – ona je prisvojena. Reči poput „ultra-femininity“ ili „femininomenon“ godinama su bile pokretačka snaga u diskursu o osna- živanju žena, ali kako primećuje Ni- kol Felps, jedna od urednica američ- kog „Voga“, „ne morate se odreći svoje snage da biste bili ženstveni“. Odelo je dobilo oreol slavljenja savremene že- ne, bilo da je reč o klasičnom Savil Rou kroju ili dekonstruktivističkim blej- zerima. Ali Geskjer je to možda rekao najbolje: „Francuska moda je izuzetna forma mekane snage, koja zrači tradi- cijom ’savoir-faire’, umetnošću življe- nja – kulturnom posebnošću. Doslov- no shvaćen, ’soft power’ je takođe fascinantan oksimoron. Kako pomiriti dve suprotnosti – nežnost i moć?“, pi- še u propratnim beleškama koje su go- ste revije sačekale na stolicama. Da li je to oversajz blejzer nošen preko braleta ili monohromatsko ode- lo koje deluje smelije nego poslovno – pravila su sada fluidna. Moć više nije samo u kroju već u stavu žene koja ga nosi. Siluete se mogu menjati, ali su- ština ostaje ista. Jedno je sigurno: stil je moć, a moć je lična.
The catwalks for spring/ summer collections were awash with fresh ideas that place an emphasis on returning to personal style and individuality A term that can be best translated into Serbian as “gentle power” was mentioned in the show notes of designer Nico- las Ghesquière that accompanied his new collection for Louis Vuitton, though he isn’t the only creator to have had a similar vision of sensually empowered femininity. The soft power idea had already been fully clarified during the Milan show of Bottega Veneta, where for- mal business suits were reinterpret- ed through relaxed silhouettes that appeared simultaneously strong, so- phisticated and sublime — repre- senting a fusion of the feminine and masculine approaches to business at- tire. This aesthetic was continued al- most immediately during Paris Fash- ion Week, when YSL concluded the first day of its show with a block- buster collection that saw oversized suits paired with ties, thick-rimmed glasses and leather aviator jackets slung over the shoulder. This look was quickly also seen off the catwalks, sported by celebrities like Kendall Jenner and Hailey Bie- ber. Stella McCartney likewise of- fered a romantic vision of men’s tai- loring, combining draped skirts with blazers and trench coats. Loewe fur- ther boosted this aesthetic by utilis- ing a similar colour palette of dove grey and chocolate brown. On the flip side, designers like Peter Do and the Coperni brand returned to the essence of the power dressing of the ‘80s — a minimalist approach with
Stella McCartney
maximum effect. Their creations don’t simply represent nostalgia for the “decade of greed”, but rather rep- resent a fundamental reconsidera- tion of what is meant by power fash- ion today: self-confidence and an uncompromising attitude. Admittedly, following the revival of the aesthetics of the nineties and the noughties, the time had come for the great comeback of eighties clothing. Fashion is cyclical after all. Former- ly a symbol of corporate ambition
Fashion » Moda | 71
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