MODA / FASHION
THE LOUD LUXURY OF AN ELITE RESORT What The White Lotus teaches us about fashion? We should all be able to wear whatever makes us feel good, but perhaps there’s something to TWL approach, where dinner always tastes better in your best outfit. And what about all the bags… U nlike Succession, yet an- other TV show that influ- enced the way we dress, there isn’t a whiff of qui- et luxury among Mike
ing the table beautifully before friends come round for dinner. It’s about making an effort. It’s useful psychologically to be able to swap a jumper for a silk shirt and those trainers for heels. Details are crucial Which brings us back to The White Lo- tus. Longstanding fans already know that this is a show in which details are crucial, which is why it comes as no sur- prise that the characters’ wardrobes are carefully considered and impecca- bly styled, just like everything else in the series. According to the show’s cos- tume designer, wealthy guests would never lower their standards so low as to carry a regular beach bag – to the beach. And the designs they choose say a lot more than it seems at first glance. From the first second of the first episode, we saw everything - from a Chanel archive dress (in the role of a casual beach tu- nic, naturally), via custom Jacquemus creations made exclusively for the show, to bags that currently enjoy cult sta- tus, signed - Gucci, Loewe and Valenti- no. And then there are the watches and jewellery that are sported with an unen- cumbered ease that belies their dizzy- ing price tags. Recognisable status sym- bols are ubiquitous, as is to be expected from a team that loves “loud luxury”. All those “wicked” bags Throughout the history of fashion, de- signer handbags have signalled assured- ness and prestige—ever since 19 th -cen- tury aristocrats flaunted their wealth with the first Louis Vuitton trunks. To- day, when the luxury market is bigger
than ever before, the desire to travel with status bags hasn’t changed, wheth- er you come from old or new money. The designer bags that appear in each episode are not a random fashion state- ment. Throughout all three seasons of The White Lotus, such bags – whether conspicuous or understated – serve to enhance the characters’ identities. They aren’t just an alternative to classic beach bags – they are literal baggage that re- veals layers of personal insecurity and social status. The characters signify their wealth through accessories. Details are what make the world of The White Lo- tus authentic. Subconscious reminders One element of subtle genius in the show lies in the way the characters han- dle their bags – some clutch them as tightly as their pearls, while others toss them casually over a chair or drop them on the floor. That reveals as much about their character as the brand they car- ry. This is the essence of the irony of wealth: it should liberate, but often be- comes a noose instead. These characters can’t leave their designer bags at home – they represent part of their identity, the way they define their self-worth. Even in places where they should be relaxed, their bags are subconscious reminders that they can’t escape their status. This is where The White Lotus, in all its layered symbolism, compels us to con- sider. Perhaps it’s time to stop looking at luxury as an escape from the mun- dane and start seeing it for what it is without being twisted: a reflection of what we try to hide about ourselves.
White’s characters. They love dramat- ic kaftans, inappropriate heels and bold colours; guests of The White Lo- tus bring their best, most heightened selves. There’s a sense of occasion to what they wear, and everyone – no mat- ter how young or bohemian – dresses up for dinner. Luxury has a different look The idea of wearing our best clothes to restaurants now feels like an old-fash- ioned concept; even in most formal din- ing spots, you’re likely to see at least two diners wearing leggings or jeans. But watching TWL has caused us to question whether we are perhaps leav- ing behind something important – and also something fun. Restaurants no longer look like dukes’ dining rooms and it’s not required to out-dress your waiter. Luxury looks different now; you don’t need to strap yourself into a tux or an uncomfortable dress to show that you’re wealthy. Today, the right hoodie can be a status symbol, the right trainer a display of affluence and taste. We nonetheless spend an awful lot of time talking about what to wear to big events – weddings, for example, while we spend less time talking about what to wear to restaurants, perhaps because it happens more regularly. Why wait for a big event to dress up and treat the rest of your life as an afterthought? Dressing up to go to a restaurant is a little like lay-
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