Vine Wise
The romance of California pinot— recapturing that ol’ spark!
By Adam Lee
R ecently, I came across a asked: "How do you all view CA pinot noir as a category these days out in the market? Is it still a 'must-have' on all [by-the- glass] lists? Is it losing its shine due to the diversity of varietals available? Is it dead? Very much alive?" thought-provoking question from Ryan Zepaltas in a Facebook wine group. Ryan, a longtime friend and the winemaker at Copain Winery, Knowing Ryan, I suspected there was more behind the question than a casual musing, so I reached out to dig a little deeper. Sure enough, he had several insightful observations—but one in particular stuck with me. After 24 years of making pinot noir,
Reinvest in the Details Back in the day, pinot lovers were obsessed with details. They’d come up to us at tastings asking about Dijon clones— specifically, Clone 115 versus 777. These days, the curiosity may center more on whole cluster use, irrigation practices or the resurgence of heritage clones. Winemakers owe it to themselves—and their fans—to share more about what they do and why it matters. The more consumers understand, the more deeply they engage. Reflect on the Journey Ryan has spent nearly a quarter century making pinot. That’s a relationship, not just a resume line. When we tap back into those memories, it enriches the present. I recently shared a bottle with Camille Allen from her new Allen Vineyard project, and I told her
Ryan said he’s seen the category evolve from one of California’s most exciting wines to something he half-jokingly described as having reached “Boomer Status.” He reminisced about the early days—when new producers were emerging, new vineyards being discovered and we were all wide-eyed with excitement. Today, pinot noir is everywhere. The thrill, he wondered, might be gone. He hoped it wasn’t. In fact, as he worked on blending Copain’s 2024 pinot noirs, he felt a renewed sense of joy and creativity. Still, the question lingered: Is the romance with pinot noir fading? Ryan’s question hit me in an odd way. So odd, in fact, that I decided to talk to a psychologist about it. But not just any psychologist—Dr. Mark Falls, a leading psychologist specializing in marriage and family therapy in Sonoma County. Ryan’s comments reminded me of a long- term relationship or marriage: it begins with passion and thrill but can settle into something predictable and—at times—overlooked. I asked Dr. Falls how couples reignite their connection. Could we apply the same principles to pinot? Here’s what he shared (with a little wine-world interpretation on my part): See It Through Someone Else’s Eyes Find someone who’s genuinely excited about pinot noir and listen to why. That kind of enthusiasm is contagious. Ryan clearly feels that energy with his new wines. Camille Allen of Allen Vineyards in Russian River does too. So does my wife, Morét Brealynn, who recently launched her own label. When you hear someone talk with that level of passion, it’s hard not to be swept up in it. It makes you want to taste, explore and rediscover.
about my first experience with the vineyard—back in 1991, via a bottle of Gary Farrell Pinot Noir (then labeled "Howard Allen"). I was dining at the Restaurant at Chateau Souverain—back when Gary Danko was the chef—and had a tasting scheduled the next day with Tom Rochioli, who introduced me to Burt and Ed at Williams Selyem. That moment stuck with me, and it made tasting Camille’s wine not just enjoyable, but personally meaningful. …… Like any long-term relationship, our connection with a wine— especially one as storied and beloved as California pinot noir— can cool if we let it. But that doesn’t mean the magic is gone. It just means we need to do the work to rediscover it. So go out and find those new producers willing to take a risk on pinot. Ask questions. Get invested in the nuance. And let what’s in your glass remind you not only where you’ve been, but also of the excitement that still lies ahead. U
Adam Lee co-founded Siduri Wines in 1994, selling it to Jackson Family Winery in 2015. He now produces and owns Clarice Wine Company, and consults with numerous different wineries, including Rombauer Vineyards on their Pinot Noir project.
June 2025
NorthBaybiz 45
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