Ritam grada / Rhythm of the city
Beautiful walkways beside the Danube and Sava Belgrade is a paradise for walking with pets If you’re in the Serbian capital with a four-legged friend, or perhaps plan to adopt one while you’re in the city, you’ll discover an entirely new world, because every path you take together will reveal a unique side of the city I t would be an understatement to say that, as a native Belgrad- er, I’m in love with the banks of the rivers Sava and Danube in both old and New Belgrade. walls that date back centuries, the confluence of the Sava and the Dan- ube, the park that stands like a jewel at the heart of the city, enchanting cobblestoned lanes and magnificent monuments. Kalemegdan is full of paths leading to secluded spots and hidden observation points that are ideal for quiet contemplation and en- joyment with a dog. Belgrade has the Danube wharf
leisurely strolls or jogging, while there are also numerous benches to rest. If you’re with a dog, just be careful that they don’t disturb the swans that gather on the riverbank towards the end of the quayside, as they have long grown accustomed to the people who love and feed them. In the evening hours, the setting sun paints enchanting scenes that make this walk even more special. We never find it arduous on these walking routes, thanks to the beau- tiful nature, and we don’t get bored while walking either, due to the many dog lovers that take their pets there. Bjanko is accustomed to being walked on a lead, but I let him run around with his friends when it isn’t over- ly crowded on our walks. Belgrade is bustling and growing constant- ly, but it is spacious enough for re- laxed walks with our pets. I feel as though I’m breathing to the fullest when I head down to the rivers, so with Bjanko I often walk further than the planned distance. When we sit at a quaint cafe or a restaurant serving freshly caught fish, he snuggles up next to my chair and sniffs around his friend at the adjacent table, while
his charm sometimes wins over the cafe owners, prompting them to buy treats for the dogs. Located along the Danube, just a stone’s throw from the pulsating heart of Belgrade, the Dorćol Prom- enade offers a unique fusion of nat- ural beauty and sporting activities. A spacious cycle lane winds its way through lush greenery here, making it a favourite route among cyclists and runners. There are also restaurants and cafés that serve as perfect spots to relax and enjoy a meal and the tranquil views of the Danube. Con- tinuing on, passing under Branko’s Bridge leads to the Sava Promenade and the Belgrade Waterfront, where you can head with your furry friend to enjoy the pet-friendly Galerija shop- ping centre, bars, the amphitheatre under the bridge etc. Of course, there’s also the seem- ingly endless walkway by the Sava on the opposite, New Belgrade side, where you’ll encounter other people with dogs, runners or cyclists, though perhaps the majority of people you’ll come across will be Belgraders and their guests leisurely drinking coffee beside the sun-bathed Sava. Locat-
ed opposite is Ada Ciganlija, the so- called Belgrade Seaside, but that’s a story of its own – a vast expanse that provides the ideal spot for run- ning around with your pet and play- ing fetch. These walks also fill my soul with happiness because we often come across foreigners who come to ob- serve Belgrade from the perspective of its rivers. When some of them converse with me, most commonly in English, I’m happy to talk about Great War Island, occupying the con- fluence of the Sava and the Danube, or about Kalemegdan Fortress, Ze- mun or Zvezdara Forest. During one of our riverside walks, I met a mid- dle-aged Parisienne who travels the world with her poodle called Mignon. She opts exclusively for cities on seas, lakes or rivers, with promenades. I re- call the sparkle in her eye as she ob- served Belgrade, which on that sun- ny March day – from the perspective of the bank of the Sava – looked like a city with a blue open sea. The spar- kle in my eye is preserved by each of the countless memories that I create with Bjanko on the riverbanks of my irresistible white city.
ged friend, along the wide streets of New Belgrade towards the prome- nade leading to Ušće’s Museum of Contemporary Art. We take a break along the way, resting on one of the benches by the river, while on the way back we stop for cake or ice cream at one of the cafés on the riverbank. Most of the raft bar venues located between Ušće and the Zemun Quay are pet-friendly, so your dog will al- so be given a bowl of fresh water. If I don’t have the time for a longer walk, I park in one of the many parking places in Ušće Park or along the Zemun Quay. There are also nu- merous parking spaces on the river- bank in Dorćol and on the quay near the New Belgrade Blocks. I mention this because it enables me to take Bjanko to spend time by the river from completely different parts of the city. The Zemun Quay has a pic- turesque promenade that follows the course of the Danube. Extremely pop- ular among both residents and tour- ists, its wide walkway is perfect for
Already during childhood, I came to love riverside walks and even took my first steps there. I nowadays spend time on the quaysides year-round, though the riverbanks are natural- ly at their most beautiful in spring, when Belgrade and its walkways awaken, bloom, and start to carry the scent of new life. I enjoy this beau- ty spot with my loved ones, who in- clude my most loyal friend, a cross- breed dog called Bjanko Snupić (8). If you’re visiting Belgrade with a dog or have perhaps decided to adopt one in my city, you won’t have any problems whatsoever when it comes to walks. The city is very consider- ate of walkers and pets. Of course, for starters you can always head to Kalemegdan, an indispensable spot for all Belgraders and their guests, because you’ll find history, fortified
in Dorćol, with the promenade ex- tending all the way to the Belgrade Waterfront, the Zemun quay, New Belgrade’s Sava Quay next to the Blocks and Ušće confluence. As I’ve grown older, so my city has also gained ever-more diverse contents along the Sava and Danube, but it has always set aside sufficient paths enabling me to walk for kilometres with my dogs, and now with Bjanko. When I have a desire to visit the lit- tle park and high-rise building near the old Mercator, where I lived dur- ing childhood, I park my car there and head, together with my four-leg-
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