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HAMMOND GOLF AND BROKEN STICK TEE UP A LOCAL, FROM-SCRATCH MENU ANDREW COPPOLINO andrewcoppolino@gmail.com
business as an “event space” for meetings, music, trivia, axe throwing and, of course, weddings. While some of the alliances are merely per- functory and grasp at establishing a cohesive alliance, Broken Stick contributes to a quite natural and organic partnership with the golf club and much of the food served is natural and organic too. Having put himself through a Bachelor of Fine Arts program by working in kitchens before graduating from Le Cordon Bleu, 0UUBXBCPSODIFG/JDL#FSPMPIBTIFBEFEVQ the golf course kitchen for the last three years. Open year-round Wednesday to Sunday, the kitchen and restaurant serve both the local community as well as golfers coming in off of 18, but whomever he’s serving, Berolo says creativity in cooking comes from a “child-like” process. He describes a playful twist on Terry’s Chocolate Orange, a popular childhood treat, which he once created a few years ago at another restaurant: he blanched a Clementine, cooked it sous vide in simple syrup for a couple of hours at 90F and stuffed it with chocolate-orange ice cream before freezing it. “We cut the orange in four pieces and served it in a wooden Clementine box. That ability is really important to me. Creativity comes from that arena you can put your mind in. Some amazing things come from
The Hammond Golf and Country Club restaurant shares space with Broken Stick Brewing Company which, at least when it first opened, was the first microbrewery in the country on a golf course. In addition to their attention to the craft of brewing fine beer and ale, craft breweries usually distinguish themselves by their unique settings. You will find microbreweries in dense urban areas and in more sparse and industrial pla- zas; some are exquisitely retro’d blacksmith shops, slit barns and textile factories in brick- and-beam buildings 150 years old. Some harken to an era when sawmills were in full operation or were massive facilities that once made washing machines and hockey sticks, or others popping up in buildings that were the very foundation of Canada’s whisky-distilling and cooperage history – using reclaimed old barrels to add flavour to hops and malted barley. Still others have bicycle themes, so why not golf? What has rapidly evolved over the years as the craft beer market has tightened – along with many consumers’ pocketbooks – has been the need for small brewers to define their
Chef Nick Berolo shows off his Neapolitan-style pizza with house-made culetello. (Andrew Coppolino)
just playing around,” he says. Playful or not, his focus remains on prepa- ring food in-house and from scratch using as many local ingredients from the immediate area as possible. Organic lettuces, kale and vegetables come from Fireside Farms in Clarence Creek; their in-house charcuterie program prepares meats like culatello for one of Berolo’s eight wood- àSFE/FBQPMJUBOQJ[[BT “We make a salami with ghost peppers from our garden and grow heirloom tomatoes too,” he says. “We’ve also prepared fermented hot-pepper sauce that we’ve sold.” There’s the occasional “farm and forage” series, which features ingredients foraged from the Hammond property.
There’s Hammond honey too. Just outside the kitchen, tucked away adjacent to the 80-seat patio dining area, is Berolo’s wood-fired pizza oven which, when up and running, clocks in at about 700F. Burning area hardwood, the cooks stack the split logs in the oven and get the flames racing quickly by pointing a hairdryer at it. It’s technique I’ve not heard of before, but the pizzas that go into the oven come out as delicious. “I think our dough really stands out,” Berolo says, adding that the recipe and techniques have been refined over time. .JYFEBOEIZESBUFEGPSNJOVUFTCFGPSF salt is added, the dough gets mixed again for
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