12555 14575
12555 14576
Pair of mid-20th century carved emerald, ruby and diamond flower cluster earrings by John Rubel, New York c.1945, each hexagonal cluster with six petals formed of leaf-carved emeralds, gold struts between, around a central stamen cluster of diamond in ruby border, round cut stones, mounted in 18ct yellow gold, signed ‘JOHN RUBEL CO’. Background Rubel was an American jeweler famous for his 1940’s angel and dancer brooches. Before he became its competitor, John Rubel worked for Van Cleef & Arpels. His company, John Rubel Co. was one of its Parisian manufacturing jewelers. In 1939, Rubel moved to New York to help produce jewelery for Van Cleef’s recently opened shop in the city. Both firms shared designer Maurice Duvalet, a Frenchman who designed ballerina and cupid-motif brooches for both firms. The designs were highly successful. In 1943, the collaboration with Van Cleef ended, and Rubel opened his own showroom at 777 Fifth Avenue. In the years that followed, Rubel created jewels depicting French can-can dancers, Spanish flamenco dancers, the Rockettes, Louis XVI style dancers, and dancing flowers inspired by the film, Fantasia. The firm also produced a series of popular flower motif brooches featuring rubies, diamonds, and turquoise, a combination that was widely copied by other jewelers. In 1947, the firm closed its doors. Text courtesy of the ‘Antique Jewelry University’
19th century diamond cluster cross brooch-pendant, c.1850, the openwork cluster arms formed by diamond set double C scrolls centered by graduated lines of diamond collets, a central cluster with raised principal cushion cut stone, the suspension hoop with stylized diamond coronet cluster, all open cut-down collet.
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