DINE & WINE
GERMANY
Berlin shows its true face on its markets: local, or- ganic, and often experimental. Between stalls of- fering bread, vegetables and fermented products, you can feel the energy of a city that’s constant- ly redefining its own cuisine. Although this period often sees major food festivals circulating the re- gion, Berlin is most interesting precisely because it doesn’t have them - through street food that de- velops spontaneously. Here you can even find a ve- gan version of the currywurst, while traditional dish- es take on unexpected forms without losing their identity. Markthalle Neun is the focal point. This historic mar- ket has been transformed into a contemporary gas- tronomic space where local producers and mod- ern concepts come together. April is dominated by seasonal products from the Brandenburg region - spring on- ions, carrots, herbs and the first dairy products from spring pastures. You can experience another side of Berlin at the Kollwitzplatz
Farmers Market: organic production, small producers and a fo- cus on sustainability. Germany’s urban scene is clearly empha- sised here and has shifted traditional cuisine towards contem- porary interpretations that are often vegetarian and vegan.
Shanghai’s traditional markets set the rhythm of the local diet with their offer of fresh vege- tables, bamboo shoots and seasonal ingredi- ents. Food becomes lighter and more aromatic in spring, adapted to the shifting tempera- tures. Traditional “wet markets” become crucial sources of fresh ingredients: bamboo shoots, leafy vegetables and aromatic herbs. Early April in China sees the staging of the Qingming Festival (5 th April), marking a holiday that has a recognisable gastronomic tradition alongside its cultural significance. Street mar- kets and restaurants prepare seasonal speci- alities that are rarely on offer throughout the rest of the year. The most famous among them are qingtuan - small green dumplings made of sticky rice dough and coloured with wild worm- wood juice. They usually contain red bean or sesame paste and have a soft and mildly aro- matic texture. Also sold on the city’s streets at this time are freshly steamed Xiao Long Bao dumplings, which are a cornerstone of Shanghainese cui- sine. Biting into them reveals hot broth that bursts out of these dumplings if they aren’t eat- en slowly and carefully. April is also the month when the city’s markets are filled with spring vegetables - bamboo shoots, green onions and fresh herbs that are used to flavour light sea- sonal dishes. Restaurants at this time of year often have menus inspired by this short but fruitful period.
CHINA KINA
U Šangaju, na tradicionalnim pijacama, sveže povrće, mladi bambus i sezonski sastojci određuju ritam ishrane. Hrana postaje lakša, aromatičnija, prilagođe- na temperaturama. Tradicionalne „wet markets“ pijace postaju ključne za sna- bdevanje svežim sastojcima. Početak aprila u Kini obeležava „Qingming Festival“ (5. april), praznik koji, po- red kulturnog značaja, ima i prepoznatljivu gastronomsku tradiciju. Ulične pija- ce i restorani tada pripremaju sezonske specijalitete koji se retko mogu probati u ostatku godine. Najpoznatiji među njima su „qingtuan“ – male zelene knedle od lepljivog pirinčanog testa obojenog sokom od divljeg pelina. Unutra se naj- češće nalazi pasta od crvenog pasulja ili susama, a tekstura je mekana i blago aromatična. Na ulicama se u isto vreme prodaju i sveže parene sjao long bao knedle, jedan od zaštitnih znakova šangajske kuhinje. Kada se zagrizu, iz njih izlazi vruća su- pa, zbog čega se jedu pažljivo i polako. April je i trenutak kada gradske pijace postaju pune prolećnog povrća koje se koristi u laganim sezonskim jelima. U restoranima se tada često pojavljuju meniji inspirisani upravo tim kratkim peri- odom godine.
Spring » Proleće | 107
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