STIL ŽIVOTA / LIFESTYLE
there’s Metaxi Mas, a taverna that the lo- cals would like to keep secret. Visit to try the grilled halloumi, herb-roasted lamb and house wine served in simple decant- ers. For seafood, follow the fishing boats to To Psaraki, a small tavern in the har- bour, where lunch can be grilled redfish with olive oil and lemon. Where to raise a toast The wines of Santorini – particular- ly Assyrtiko – are among the most unique in Greece, grown in basket-shaped vines that protect the grapes from the wind. The sunset terraces of Santo Wines represent perhaps the most dramat- ic wine-tasting venue on the island, with views over the caldera and glasses of white wine that catch the evening light. Nearby, Venetsanos Winery offers a qui- eter experience at one of the island’s old- est wineries. Later into the evening, in Fira, cocktails at PK Cocktail Bar arrive as the sky turns indigo. For something more atmospheric, Franco’s Bar combines champagne with classical music and illu- minated views of the island. Magical nature Most tourists chase the Oia sun- set, but the island’s magic often resides elsewhere: in quiet vineyards, on jas- mine-scented squares and the paths run- ning along the edge of the caldera, where the Aegean Sea stretches endlessly. The caldera hike between Fira and Oia is per- haps the most impressive when it comes to views over the caldera, but the cob- bled lanes leading to the island’s pret- tiest villages and abandoned spots are just as spectacular — only devoid of the crowds. For the best views of both sun- rise and sunset, follow the thyme-scent-
Perivolas hotel
Island that reveals itself slowly Stay long enough and get acquainted with a subtler side beyond the famous views from photographs: the rhythm of a sea breeze, wine, and a light that seems almost timeless
T he route of your ferry skirts a submerged volcano to sud- denly reveal an island rising in terraces of white villages, as if suspended above a deep indigo crater. Church domes shimmer cobalt blue against the sky. Bougainvil- lea spills over stone walls. Every evening sees the sun perform its theatrical sun- set over the Aegean, as if the whole is- land is a gargantuan amphitheatre. But behind the honeymoon cliché lies a much more interesting Santorini: modern ho- tels carved out of the volcanic rock, tav- ernas hidden in village squares, and bou- tiques where contemporary design meets Cycladic craftsmanship. Where to stay At Katikies Santorini, white terrac- es cascade down the cliff face like a min- imalist sculpture. Rooms are carved di- rectly out of the volcanic rock – creating cool caves clad in linen and marble – with
most monastic serenity: a collection of restored cave houses, where stone, can- vas deckchairs and a legendary infinity pool cause the horizon to merge with re- ality. If you want to exchange the crowds of the cliff for the quiet of the village, Ve- dema is a Luxury Collection Resort locat- ed in the subdued streets of Megalochori, with rooms arranged around the court- yard of an old winery. Where to eat Santorini’s cuisine is determined by its volcanic soil – sweet cherry tomatoes, salty capers and minerals in the wines. Selene endures as a culinary landmark of the island, located in the hillside village of Pyrgos. Local ingredients are turned into modern Greek specialities: fried tomato fritters with herbs, lamb cooked slowly in local wine. For a more intimate, candle- lit dinner, Ambrosia Restaurant is almost impossibly romantic – tables perched on the cliff, as the sea darkens below. Then
balconies that levitate above the submerged caldera. The morn- ing starts with espresso and sea air, while the evening concludes with champagne as the sky trans- forms into a golden rose hue. Just a few winding alleys away are the Canaves Oia Suites, which offer the same cinematic views with a more modern, minimalist touch. Private pools hang over the sea and the sunset from the terrace seems to cause the whole island to sigh. For more tranquil luxu- ry, Perivolas Hotel exudes an al-
ed trail leading from the island’s tallest mountain, Profitis Ilias, down to the crumbling castle ru- ins, artisan shops and tradition- al tavernas of Pyrgos. Alternative- ly, you can admire the streets of Megalochori, with its neoclassical villas, whitewashed chapels and vineyards, before hiking the three kilometres to the lesser-known Plaka Beach, where you can join the locals in enjoying the hot mineral springs that burst from the rocks below an ancient chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary.
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