EATING OUR FEELINGS
Eli Feldman: Sable Sandwiches by COREY MINTZ
THE DISPLAY FRIDGES and freezers that line one wall of Mamaleh’s Delicatessen, in Brookline, Massachusetts, sport hand-painted, two- tone headings that read like a roll call of the greatest Ashkenazi culinary hits: smoked fish, blintzes, bagels, knishes, matzah ball soup, and Dr. Brown’s. Every other Sunday morning, Eli Feldman brings his four-year- old, Piper, who measures herself against a stack of bagels painted on the wall six or seven feet high. There are no measurements: you’re supposed to just count the bagels.
Harder to find than its popular cousin, lox, smoked sable has a similarly luxurious texture, but a distinct flavour.
“Every time we go, our daughter is curious if she’s significantly taller,” says Feldman. “And she never is.” Feldman, who co-owns three locations of the all- day Boston restaurant Shy Bird, drives in from Milton, just south of the city. He is house hunting; the deli and
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FOOD/PROP STYLING/PHOTOGRAPHY MARISA CURATOLO
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