Warsaw In Your Pocket - August - September 2020








S I N C E 1 9 9 1

City Guide

Local Industry Voices Miracle on the Vistula


p.18 Warsaw Summer Activities p.66



Local Voices Ed Shellard: Warsaw’s Alchemist p.10


Breakfast & Brunch 



Local Voices Ed Shellard: Warsaw's Alchemist�������������������������� p.10 Anthony Campaniaris @ Nobu Hotel������������������� p.12 Local Flavours Traditional Polish Dishes ����������������������������������������� p.14 Polish Alcohol ����������������������������������������������������������� p.16 Events Miracle on the Vistula: 100 Year Anniversary����� p.18 What’s On in Warsaw: Aug-Sept 2020 ���������������� p.20 Transport  p.24 Sightseeing  Essential Warsaw������������������������������������������������������ p.28 Old Town Walking Tour������������������������������������������� p.30 The Royal Route ������������������������������������������������������� p.36 Powiśle Walking Tour ���������������������������������������������� p.42 Praga���������������������������������������������������������������������������� p.48 Łazienki ����������������������������������������������������������������������� p.50 Wilanów���������������������������������������������������������������������� p.53 Jewish Warsaw���������������������������������������������������������� p.56 Warsaw Uprising ������������������������������������������������������ p.60 Museums�������������������������������������������������������������������� p.62 Activities & Experiences  p.66 Kids & Families  p.68 Day Trips fromWarsaw  p.70

Restaurants  New & Featured��������������������������������������������������������� p.75 Fine Dining ����������������������������������������������������������������� p.76 Casual Dining ������������������������������������������������������������ p.80 Vegan & Vegetarian ������������������������������������������������� p.84 Food Markets ������������������������������������������������������������ p.86 Nightlife  New & Featured�������������������������������������������������������� p.89 Bars������������������������������������������������������������������������������� p.90 Clubs���������������������������������������������������������������������������� p.94 Adult Entertainment����������������������������������������������� p.97 Shopping  p.98 Index  p.102 Maps City Centre Map���������������������������������������������������� p.7 City Map ����������������������������������������������������������������� p.8 Old Town Map ��������������������������������������������������� p.31 Royal Route Map ����������������������������������������������� p.37 Powiśle Map�������������������������������������������������������� p.43 Praga Map����������������������������������������������������������� p.48 Łazienki Map������������������������������������������������������� p.50 Wilanów Map ����������������������������������������������������� p.53



884 880 518


Foreword What a crazy six months it’s been since we printed our last guide! Though right nowwe can breathe a socially distanced sigh of relief (under a face covering, please), it's difficult to shake the fatalistic feeling that COVID-19 may not be done disrupting our lives. Varsovians, however, have seen more than their fair share of serious challenges - something we're particularly reminded of in August, during commemorations to the devastating Warsaw Uprising (p.60) and also The Miracle on the Vistula (p.18). But how do we stay vigilant in the collective fight against an enemy as nuanced and inexhaustible as the current global pandemic? Hear how local industry insiders in gastronomy and hospitality are getting on, hoping for the best and preparing for the worst, in our new ‘Local Voices’ interview series (pp.10-13). While we understand the anxiety now associated with everyday public activities, local businesses are doing their part to provide a safe, enjoyable environment for their guests, and once again (following a short break and mini redesign) we've compiled the best the city has to offer in this guidebook. So be smart, stay safe and chins up, everyone. Enjoy Warsaw.

Cover Story After the past few months we’ve all had, it’s time to keep our heads up. Look up to the sky in the colourful Saska Kępa district (L-7) for some inspiration. Photo: Adobe Stock.

Publisher & Staff

Publisher IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k. ul. Karmelicka 46/51, 31-128 Kraków iyp.com.pl poland@inyourpocket.com Circulation 15,000 copies published every 2 months

Writer & Editor: Andrew Elliott Sales Consultant: Jarek Śliwiński (+48) 606 749 643 Events: Monika Boguszewska-Stopka (+48) 728 879 494, Research: Aleksandra Sosnowska, Dominika Sosnowska Layout & Maps: Tomáš Haman Social Media & Marketing: Juan Sarabia Copyright Notice Content and photos copyright IYP City Guides Sp. Z o.o Sp.k. unless otherwise stated. No part of this publication may be reproduced without written permission from the publisher. The brand name In Your Pocket and maps are used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, LT, tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).

Andrew Elliott has been living in Warsaw since 2016. With close ties to Poland, he made the big leap from Scotland to get a more in-depth grasp of this fascinating country. Personal interests include astronomy, current affairs, history, food & drink, photography & videography! There is definitely a smile under that mask.







Praga District Beach

St. Mary's Church

Multimedia Fountain Park

Mamaison Le Regina

WARSAW CENTRE © OpenStreetMap contributors. Available under the Open Database License.

St. Benno's

1 cm = 160 m Scale 1:16 000

St. Francis Seraph

St. Casimir's





400 m




Freta Gallery

Park Praski

Praga Hospital

Stara Prochoffnia

Po Wiśle

St. Hyacinth

Adam Mickiewicz Museum of Literature

Asia and Pacific

Sts. Michael & Florian Cathedral

Oki Doki

Warsaw Museum

Warsaw Uprising Monument




St. John the Baptist Cathedral

Military Cathedral

Jesuit Church

Ogród Krasińskich



Castle Inn Royal Castle

Jan Kiliński Monument

Monte Cassino Monument

P&O Apartments

King Sigismund's Column

Dom Literatury


St. Anne's


The Armoury - Archeological Muzeum


Bellotto Hotel

Ratusz Arsenał


Museum of Caricature

Adam Mickiewicz Monument

Jewish Historical Institute

Vodka Museum



Great Theatre National Opera

Warsaw University Library & Gardens

Museum of Modern Art on the Vistula

Presidential Palace

National Theatre



John Paul II Collection

Puffa Lux

Raffles Europejski


Copernicus Science Centre

Church of the Nuns of the Visitation

Józef Piłsudski


Capitol Theatre

Lech Kaczyński

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier

Elektrownia Powiśle

Warsaw University

Smoleńsk Air Disaster

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

Centrum Nauki Kopernik

Tadeusz Kościuszko Monument

Saxon Garden



Harenda Club

Zachęta National Gallery of Art


Holy Cross Church

Nicolaus Copernicus



I Can Still See Their Faces

ANTON HOTEL Rooms & Apartments


Motel ONE

Nowy Świat-Uniwersytet

Hotel SixtySix

Nożyk Synagogue

Oki Doki

Radisson Collection Hotel


Sleepwell Apartments

Fryderyk Chopin Museum

Teatr Kwadrat

NBP Money Centre

Hotel Warszawa

All Saints' Church


Pl. Powstańców Warszawy



Zachęta Projects Gallery

Ambasada Apartments

Gromada Warszawa Centrum

Stairs Gallery

National Philharmonic

Boutique Bed & Breakfast

Royal Route Residence


Rondo ONZ

Janusz Korczak Monument



New World St. Hostel

St. Andrew's

6th Floor

Hotel Chmielna Residence Diana

Polish Army Museum

The Palm

Charles de Gaulle Monument

Mercure Warszawa Centrum

Drama Theatre


Atlantic Cinema

National Museum








Złote Tarasy

s i ą ż ę c a

Novotel Centrum

Pl. Trzech Krzyży

Polonia Palace

Warszawa Centralna


St. Alexander's


Studio Buffo



Sheraton Warsaw

Mercure Warszawa Grand

Park Kultury


Warszawa Śródmieście

The Music Theatre ROMA

Roommate Apartments


Residence 1898


Polish Parliament

H15 Boutique Apartments

Hampton by Hilton






Ed Shellard: Warsaw's Alchemist

Ed Shellard is the Executive Chef and owner of The Alchemist Gastropub (p.83), located in the Metropolitan building on Piłsudski Square. Ed is an Englishman, originally from Surrey, a businessman who has had success in Poland since moving here. He is a person that understands the local hospitality scene and the wider International community in Warsaw (and Poland) making him the ideal person to kick off our latest series of interviews with local based expats about life and work in the country. I remember thinking ‘there is barely any gastronomy here - I’ll keep my eye on this place’. I looked at opening something in the London area, but the competition, rents and deposits were insane, there was no way I could do that. After a quick attempt in Vancouver, Canada that didn’t turn out well, I decided to come here not speaking any Polish, not knowing anybody. I sold my house and put every penny I had into the Alchemist. I spent 6months sleeping on peoples’ sofas, borrowing their cars, meeting real estate agents, trying to find somewhere that had good frontage and a garden with sun. Those were my two objectives because I’ve always been passionate about pubs and public houses and how they should be non- judgemental and have a menu that caters to everyone. That’s what I wanted to bring to Warsaw; a modern version of this idea. How has life been in Poland since moving here? I love the simplicity of Poland, and as a chef, I love that it’s an agricultural country. I love eastern Poland where you can still see sights that look like something fromthe 1920s, where people still live off the land. There’s something about driving past an old Babcia [grandmother] on the side of the road sellingmushrooms and jars of blueberries that just makes me stop and say ‘yup! I’m going to buy that!’, and I’mgoing to do everything I can to buy real vegetables from the people that grow and pick them.

How did you begin your venture into the world of gastronomy? My Mother is French, which is part of my influence for cooking, having been 'forced' to drink wine at the age of 4, eating strong cheeses by the age of 5. As a teenager, after a few seasons as a ski instructor in Switzerland and working in the kitchens, I came back to the UK and went to the Oxford school of Hospitality Management to do a bachelor’s degree in hotel and restaurant management. In myfinal year, oneof themodulesofferedayear inthe Hilton London Metropole in the kitchen and bar, as well as a year cooking in the Oxford Brookes University kitchens as part of a training chef’s degree. So you’re a bit of an Alchemist? That’s where the name came from - I’m always experimenting with various herbs and ferments. Right now I’m making my own antibiotics with unpasteurised honey and raw garlic which you leave to ferment for a year until it goes black - that’s how people used to survive bacterias before we had pharmacies! It’s got to the point that we’re now experimenting with CBD Cannabis infusion in one of our cocktails! Why did you choose to come toWarsaw? I first came to Warsaw 15 years ago. I was working on projects installing kitchen ventilation systems in hotels.


Ed Shellard: Warsaw's Alchemist | Local Voices

It's time for something a little bit more lighthearted! What are your favourite things to see and do in and aroundWarsaw? T he Warsaw Rising Museum is one of my favourite attractions to take visiting family & friends. We do that so they understand why Warsaw looks like it does. This city and its history blows my mind. I sometimes join walking tours and just listen to a local telling me about all those in-depth stories. Even on a side street in Warsaw you’ve never been to, you’ll find something captivating. I tell friends it’s like diamonds in the rough; it looks rough on the surface, but behind each door you can find something interesting. One of my favourite things to do is go to other restaurants - you can eat relatively cheaply, being able to afford three restaurant visits per week without breaking the bank.

Also, I think that the people in Poland are fantastic, and eating Polish food with people outside of the cities is one of the most mind-blowing experiences, where you’re eating simple food that’s fantastic, in an atmosphere of love, especially when a Polish Babcia takes you under her wing and makes you eat! What were your first impressions of the gastronomy scene in Poland upon arrival? I found the old hospitality style in Poland quite shocking when I first came here, and we just wanted to turn that on its head because I think Polish people are fantastic - they’re warm and hospitable, but if they don’t know you, they can be quite cold. We wanted to create a family gastropub, which is what I think we’ve done. A good majority of our customers have been with us for years because they love the atmosphere. The COVID-19 Pandemic turned the hospitality industry upside down - how did it affect The Alchemist? We immediately had to adapt, and our staff dealt with deliveries. I know restaurants that fired staff on the spot, but we decided to carry on. Thanks to our friendly approach, in the first weeks of restrictions, we received a lot of love from supporters helping us by ordering food. Of course, we had to introduce the new sanitary regime, but we got used to it. I’ve used the opportunity to teach my staff that work at The Alchemist is not just a job, but the art of hospitality - you need to care about guests. People appreciate this and remember it. Making a team of positive people leads to staff becoming like part-owners with me, not just me being their boss. A lot of Polish restaurants need to have this approach, to give staff a feeling of engagement. Happy staff make happy customers who will always return. How do you think the hospitality industry will adapt to the new situation we are in? If there is another lockdown, we know how to work around it. We’ll keep our staff and become delivery focused. Part of our philosophy is that everyone in the gastronomy industry is in this together - I don’t see other restaurants as competition, I see them as friends, so let’s support each other. Poland for a long time just saw ‘restauracja’ or ‘pub’, they didn’t understand it’s part of the hospitality industry; about caring for people and offering guests a good night out. I tell my staff regularly not to judge anyone that visits us - you don’t know them, they’re just normal people with mortgages, sick family members, and on Friday night they come here to leave all that behind, to have some good food and drinks, and it’s your job to cater to that. Those guests are the people that will regularly return and help us survive.

A modern menu to match a modern approach to running a restaurant. Photo: Bartosz Mokrzycki.

And how about the rest of Poland? I love exploring. I love Kraków , we’ve also been to Auschwitz , which is essential for anyone living here, but the minute the temperature is decent, I love going to the countryside, to experience the old world Poland. I’m a bit of a petrol head, and sometimes we just spin a bottle and drive in any direction to see what we come across. Konstancin (p.71) was my most recent adventure, which I had no idea had all these mansions. Do you have anything you would like to say to our readers? Please spare a thought for the restaurant you love, the hotel you enjoyed staying in, the people that looked after you - these are real people with real lives doing their best for you, and in your free time, you’ve got to support the places that you actually like. Don’t buy a coffee from a petrol station, avoid the big shopping malls for food, remember the food that you actually like to eat rather than fast food alternatives that do nothing good for your body. Most importantly, it’s summer, go out with friends for a drink and out for a meal, embrace it.


Local Voices | Anthony Campaniaris @ Nobu Hotel

The impressively designed Nobu Hotel Warsaw on ul. Wilcza 73 (F-10).

Nobu Hotel Warsaw: Anthony Campaniaris Anthony Campaniaris has until now been connected with the hotel industry in Toronto, Canada. He began his career at the reception of Granite Club and Metropolitan Hotel. In 2006-2009, he worked at Hilton, first as a Reception Manager and then as an Executive Level Manager. He then served as Deputy CEO of Hilton Garden Inn, Chief Operating Officer of Hazelton Hotel, and for five years was Director of Sales and Business Development at the luxury Shangri-Li. Before coming to Warsaw, he managed the Andore House hotel for three years. He is now the General Manager of Nobu Hotel Warsaw, owned by Chef Nobuyuki 'Nobu' Matsuhisa, Actor Robert De Niro and Film Producer Meir Teper.

As the General Manager of Warsaw’s new NOBU Hotel, what can you briefly tell us to introduce the NOBU brand to our readers? Nobu is a brand that began with restaurants and evolved into a hotel group. Our shareholders vision to see the experience from our restaurants translate to a hotel was seamless as Nobu guests are seeking unique and crafted experiences. We pride ourselves on selecting locations that have inspiring designs that are inspired through Japanese minimalism and luxury through simplicity.

Nobu is an expanding international brand which we’re excited to welcome toWarsaw. Can you tell us why the city was chosen as a new location? Warsaw is a city that has seen consistent growth over the last 15 years and shown stable economic growth, as well as higher leisure and business travel volumes. We select specific locations where our brand is either already well known and can thrive or where the market has a need for a luxury-lifestyle experience that is missing. Poland is also where our shareholder Meir Teper was born, and this property is truly special to him for this reason.


Anthony Campaniaris @ Nobu Hotel | Local Voices

The design concept of Nobu inWarsaw is stunning. Can you tell us why this specific location on ul. Wilcza was chosen, but also what the thought process was behind merging a super modern and pre-war building? The concept of marrying two totally unique concepts gives us an opportunity to become part of the existing landscape of the city. Spanning 100 years since it’s creation to the addition and opening on the new wing, Nobu Warsaw proudly encompasses the perfect blend of classic elegance and modern sophistication. We respect the heritage and importance of the existing Art Deco building, and by including this concept in the overall property, we have given guests the opportunity

The initial opening date was planned for June 2020. Unfortunately, the COVID-19 pandemic resulted in the date being pushed back to August. How has Nobu adapted to the pandemic reality? Weare fortunate that inWarsawspecifically, the epidemic was contained and handled correctly and it has allowed the public to feel comfortable and safe in resuming life. Apart from the minor delay in opening, we had further time to ensure that hygiene and sanitation policies for our guests and team members were developed and implemented. Following the recommendations from the government, we recognise social distancing inside the building, the use of masks and gloves for our

to chose the way they experience Warsaw through the decades, all while receiving the same incomparable Nobu experience. Is there anything you personally love about the building/location? Perhaps something unique which other hotels don’t have? Personally, I have always been inspired by buildings and locations that are unique. For me, as a Canadian, relocating to Warsaw was a wonderful experience and I was so happy to be introduced so comfortably to the way of life in this vibrant city. Add to this a truly incredible building that stands out among other hotels in

team members, hourly public space sanitising, and UV light germicidal room sanitisers to ensure all hotel rooms are safe to occupy.

What advice can you give to people who are perhaps apprehensive about visiting Poland at this time?

Poland, along with many other EU countries, had a swift response to containingandhandling the epidemic. It was via these methods, and with the public following regulations, that the virus did not become harder to control. Being apprehensive about travel is to be expected, but when taking that first step, it is important to select

the city by its design, its unique ability to tell the story about the evolution of a city, and most importantly by the incredible local team members who make each experience different and exciting, are among the reasons why I am so passionate about Nobu Hotel Warsaw. The hotel industry has grown and improved immensely in Poland over the last 30 years, especially inWarsaw, with the choice of accommodation available to visitors being ever more varied. What makes Nobu stand out as the no. 1 choice for prospective travellers coming to Warsaw? Poland has seen great growth in hotel developments under large chains. This has shown that there is demand for choice and that frequent guests may wish to experience different styles of hotel when they travel. Nobu Hotel Warsaw is filling a much needed gap in the city, where guests can have a truly unique lifestyle experience in a vibrant, energetic and stylish space that focuses on design, ambience andmood, all while having the highest level of luxury service that our guests expect of the brand.

accommodations that are taking the proper steps to ensure they are putting all guests' minds at ease, knowing that they are in a safe and hygienic environment. What can the Nobu experience offer to local Varsovians and expats? The Nobu experience that can be found in all of our hotels and restaurants around the world can be seen here in Warsaw. We have a truly incomparable cuisine and menu, and a guest experience that any local or expat would be hard pressed to find in Warsaw. We hope to become part of the local community, and welcome everyone as part of our family. Is there anything you would like to say to, or ask of, our readers? I would encourage all readers to come to the property. It’s such a unique hotel and building, with an even more unique dining experience and hotel stay. Our Nobu Cafe has many local influences in the lunch menu and we are even more excited to share our pastry offering that can be ordered as take out or dining in.


Local Flavours | Traditional Polish Dishes

Traditional Polish Dishes Polish food is famous for being simple, rich and very filling. Below we list the most well-known dishes you simply must try while in town, all of which you should be able to order from any Polish restaurant worth its salt. Smacznego!

BARSZCZ A nourishing beetroot soup, barszcz may be served with a croquette (‘barszcz z krokietem’), with miniature pierogi floating in it (‘barszcz z uszkami’), or simply as broth in a mug expressly for drinking. A recommended alternative to other beverages, we’d be surprised if you can find a bad cup of barszcz anywhere in Poland, so make sure you return home with barzszcz stains on at least one of your shirts.

BIGOS Though there’s no standard recipe for this hearty stew, ingredients usually include fresh and pickled cabbage, sausage, onion, mushrooms, garlic, peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and whatever else is on hand. In fact, metaphorically bigos translates to ‘big mess,’‘mish-mash’ or ‘confusion’ in Polish. A Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.

GOŁĄBKI Translating to ‘little pigeons,’ this favourite dish is like a ‘cabbage enchilada'. Consisting of boiled cabbage leaves filled with rice, onion and typically beef, gołąbki are rolled up and baked or steamed, then served with tomato or mushroom sauce. Polish legend claims that King Kazimierz IV fed his army gołąbki before the Battle of Grunwald, and their unlikely victory attributed to the fortifying meal ever since.

GOLONKA This is ‘pork knuckle’ or ‘ham hock,’ as in the part of a pig’s leg between the knee and ankle. Boiled, braised or roasted, this is the closest the Poles come to barbecue, and is a delicacy. The meat should slip right off the bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with beer. Generally sold by weight, you might end up with more than you bargained for, but it’s certainly an Instagram opportunity. Go caveman.


Traditional Polish Dishes | Local Flavours

All photos courtesy of U Fukiera restaurant, p.79.

KOTLET SCHABOWY Typically served with mashed potatoes and pickled cabbage, this is probably the most popular meal in Poland. Essentially a breaded and fried pork chop, ‘kotlet schabowy’ is quite similar to Viennese schnitzel, and a solid bet for a cheap, filling, risk-free meal. If you’re awoken on a weekend by the sound of profuse banging - that’s the sound of the meat being ten- derised with a spiky mallet, so best mind your manners.

PIEROGI Poland’s most famous food, you can't leave PL until you’ve had them. These doughy, stuffed dumplings are typically steamed or pan-fried. Traditional fillings include potato, sweet cheese, minced meat, mushrooms and cabbage or seasonal fruits. If you nose around, you’ll find plenty of maverick fillings like chocolate, lentils or even chicken livers; the possibilities are limitless and served literally everywhere.

PLACKI ZIEMNIACZANE These greasy, fried potato pancakes are very similar to hashbrowns or Jewish latkes (if that means anything to you), and may be served in a variety of ways. Keep it simple with just sour cream (‘placki solo’), or turn it into a hefty meal by ordering them smothered in mushroom sauce or - our favourite - goulash (‘placki po węgiersku’). Highly caloric, they’re also a tried and true hangover cure.

ŻUREK It doesn’t get any more Polish than żurek – a sour soup made from a thick stock of fermented rye flour. Typically chock full of potatoes, sausage and hard-boiled eggs, żurek is most often thickened with cream, and seasoned with marjoram, garlic, salt and pepper. The result is a tasty grayish gruel that any Polish peasant would be proud to polish off. If you’re lucky, you’ll even get it served in a bread bowl.


Bottoms up with classy drinks at Woda Ognista (p.93)

4 Polish Alcohols You Have to Try …plus several others that also work…

Polish Alcohol | Local Flavours

Vodka Translator Poles have been producing and drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling some of the best vodka blends available in the world. The most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be Belvedere, Chopin, Luksusowa, Ostoya, Pan Tadeusz and Wyborowa, all of which you’ll find in any alcohol shop. While clear vodkas are generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mixing in cocktails, the real fun is in sampling Poland’s flavoured vodkas and nalewki - a large range of Polish liqueurs and aged tinctures made from vodka or neutral spirits and fruits, herbs and spices. Vodka shot & snack bars like PijalniaWódki on ul. Nowy Świat 19 (G-8) are a great place to try them. Here are just some of the notable varieties:

Poland’s national drink has many exciting variations for you to try…

© Fabrizio Sciami

1. Żołądkowa Gorzka Due to its very name, which translates to something like ‘Bitter Stomach Vodka,’ Żołądkowa Gorzka gives even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise of its medicinal properties. Though it comes in a variety of flavours, the original orange label (‘tradycyny’) is an aged, amber-coloured liquor flavoured with herbs and spices, Żołądkowa has a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything you’re likely to have tried before. 2. Żubrówka One of Poland’s most popular overseas vodka exports, Żubrówka - also known as Bison Grass Vodka - has been produced in Eastern Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific to the primeval Białowieża Forest (a blade of which appears in each bottle), Żubrówka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste which has been described as ‘floral’ or having traces of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on its own, Żubrówka is most commonly combined with apple juice – a refreshing concoction called a ‘tatanka’ or ‘szarlotka’ depending where you are. 3. Krupnik Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet liquor made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum – drinking booze doesn’t get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a popular defroster with hot water, lemon and mulling spices. 4. Miód Pitny Mead, or ‘drinkable honey,’ preceded beer’s arrival in Poland and has remained a favourite since the Middle Ages. Since 2008, Polish meads have been protected under EU law as a traditional specialty. Distilled from honey, the drink comes in 4 strengths with Połtorak being the strongest (15-18%).

Wiśniówka - cherry vodka Cytrynówka - lemon vodka Pigwówka - quince vodka Orzechówka - walnut vodka Piołunówka - wormwood liquor Wódka figowa - fig vodka Wódka śliwkowa - plum vodka Wódka gruszkowa - pear vodka

Warsaw’s Best Beer Gardens Having to spend a fewmonths every year freezing, it’s no surprise locals dive right into beer gardens as soon as Mr. Sun appears. There are many, but we have a few recommendations. If you’re in Warsaw for a short time, the main tourist trail, the Royal Route (p.36) leading to the Old Town (p.30), is jam-packed with outdoor seating and courtyard gardens - accessible for all budgets! One of our top choices are the Pavillions (Pawilony) , a ramshackle collection of dive bars at ul. Nowy Świat 26 (G-7). If beer gardens are less your thing, head down to the river. The Vistula Boulevards (p.115) on the left bank offers seasonal bars and deck chairs. On the other side, there are more beaches and bars, like the popular La Playa (G-4) . Nearby, ul. Francuska in the leafy Saska Kępa area (L-7) becomes a hive of activity with every bar, cafe and restaurant spilling out onto the streets with chairs and tables everywhere! For something 'alternative', mixing the best of the night market ’s (p.87) street food, with bars and clubs with a circus ground flare, then head to one of our favourite new outdoor fun places: Lunapark (K-8).


Local Voices | Ed Shellard: Warsaw's Alchemist

Miracle on the Vistula Polish soldiers positioned in Miłosna (nowWesoła) on the eastern defences of Warsaw, August 1920.

It was a battle that Poland was not supposed to have won. A David and Goliath battle so pivotal yet so criminally-overlooked in the shadows between two world wars. If Poland lost, it would mean the end of its short-lived independence. But for the rest of Europe, a Soviet victory could have changed the history of the continent immensely. 100 years later, we take a look at the 1920 Battle ofWarsaw , or as it’s known in Polish - Cud Nad Wisłą (ENG: The Miracle on The Vistula ) Partitions and New Borders In the year 1795, Poland had failed in its resistance against the major powers on its borders, leading to the country’s partition between Austria, Prussia, and the Russian Empire. Poland was completely erased from the world map for 123 years. In the space of 5 generations, you'd expect anyone else to just give up and relinquish their statehood. But this is Poland we’re talking about, and as the national anthem states: ‘Poland is Not Yet Lost, So Long as we still live’ Fast-forward to 1918, when Germany and Austro- Hungary lost WWI and Russia’s participation was disrupted by the Bolshevik revolution in 1917. Polish resilience had finally paid off, and the 2nd Polish Republic emerged in 1919. A new Polish army led by Chief of State Józef Piłsudski quickly mobilised to reclaim its former territories in the east. But the Bolsheviks were not ready to give up their ground so easily. Much more in fact - they were determined

in its goal of spreading the communist revolution westward. Thus began the Polish-SovietWar in 1919. Falling back from Belarus and Ukraine, Piłsudski used the Polish retreat to make preparations for the Russian offensive. He knew their objective was the capital Warsaw, so that’s where he’d meet them. Preparations Crossing over the Vistula in early August of 1920, the Polish 5th Army was positioned to the city's north, in and around Modlin Fortress . To Warsaw’s east, the Polish 1st Army was entrenched as the city’s last line of defence, that was to be held at all costs. The Polish 3rd and 4th armies were placed to the city’s south, awaiting a counter-offensive command. Leading the Russian offensive was General Mikhail Tukhachevsky . The core of his strategy was to encircle Warsaw from the northwest, the same way that Russian forces had done during the November Uprising of 1831! Simultaneously, he would send the Russian 16th army to attack the city from the east while the 12th Army and 1st Cavalry would eventually breach Warsaw from the south-east. Thanks to Polish cryptologists who had broken the Russian ciphers, Piłsudski was well aware of Tuchashevsky's plans. But regardless of the advantage, the Poles were going up against a far more advanced army with more experienced commanders. Piłsudski


Miracle on the Vistula: 100 Year Anniversary | Events

was better known as a politician and had no formal military education. So the cynics and military observers predicted a decisive Soviet victory. A miracle would indeed be required! An Unfavourable Start And so the Battle of Warsaw began. On August 12, Tukhachevsky sent the Russian 16th Army to attack city’s defences from the east, focusing their efforts on the town of Radzymin (just 30km north-east of Warsaw). At the same time, he concentrated the 3rd, 4th and 15th armies on the northern front to begin his surrounding maneuvre. Radzymin was eventually captured by the Red army on August 14, forcing the Polish 1st army back towards the Vistula. This added more pressure to the northern defences, as they continued to resist three whole Russian armies. Things were not looking good. But as the name of this article suggests, a miracle was about to take place! A Miracle Takes Place!

At this point, Tukhachevsky was still hoping for support from Russian forces in the southeast, but due to disagreements in strategy as well as personal grudges, these commanders ignored their orders. Most notably, the Russian 1st Cavalry was convinved by a young Jozef Stalin to mobilise south and capture the Ukrainian city of Lviv. Russia's Defeat By August 18th, Russian forces had effectively been defeated, though it would take days for a full retreat to be issued. The Russian 4th Army, cut off from the main force, retreated into East Prussia, and all 35,000 men were taken prisoner. Total Russian losses during the engagement have been estimated at 126,000, compared to just 40,500 on the Polish side. Bolshevik leader Vladimir Lenin was quoted as calling the battle an ‘enormous defeat’, and with the Red Army in full retreat, Piłsudski was able to mobilise his troops again, eventually solidifying Poland's borders by March 1921.

Whether it was divine intervention, poor Soviet leadership, talented Polish code breakers or unstoppable Polish morale, Piłsudski had effectively stopped Soviet expansion into Western Europe. If Poland had not succeeded, it’s very possible that world history would have taken a very different turn, greatly effecting the circumstances in which WWII and the Cold War would have taken place. Where to see More? War cemeteries can be visited in Radzymin , and also in the nearby town of Ossów . Modlin Fortress

At midnight on Aug 14th, the Polish 203rd Uhlan Regiment broke through the northern line and managed to sabotage a radio tower in Ciechanów that was being used to coordinate Soviet troops. They did this by transmitting conflicting Morse code over the same frequency, recited the Book of Genesis in Polish and Latin! Due to the disruption in communication, the Russian 4th army missed the command to turn south and continued advancingwest. It was now August 15th - the Catholic feast of the assumption. As if motivated by a divine force, the Polish 5th Army pushed forward

Zdzisław Jasiński’s ‘Forward Warsaw!’, with the allegory of Poland leading the charge.

from their position and forced the Russian flank back away from the Vistula. The situation was finally turning.

can be visited as well as the remnants of the concrete defence networks around the north of the city. In Warsaw itself, the finer details of the battle and the overall war can be explored in the Polish Army Museum and the Warsaw Citadel from where the radio stations jammed Soviet signals.

Preparing for the counter-offensive, Piłsudski realised the gravity of the situation and handed in a letter of resignation from all state duties, so that the government would not be disrupted by his death. On August 16th, he personally led the 3rd and 4th armies north, steamrolling over the measly south- eastern Russian flank. This cut off communication to the Russian 16th army. As confusion ensued, cohesion in the Russian lines began to come apart.

Read our full article and watch our video here: iyp.me/78007f


Events | What’s On in Warsaw: Aug-Sept 2020

What's On in Warsaw Crack Up – Crack Down Exhibition at Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art | Photo: Karolina Zajączkowska, p. 22

Events by Date UNTIL 29.08 » Jazz at the Old Town Square If you’re a jazz lover, this is a great series of concerts taking place every Saturday in the picturesque surroundings of Warsaw’s Old Town (p.30). Drawing over 40,000 festival-goers annually and into its 26th year now, this open-air festival promises to be the largest and most popular jazz festival in Poland. Check out the full schedule of who’s playing, and don’t forget, it’s all free. If you ask us, that’s a pretty reasonable price to see some big names in the Polish and jazz scene. And this year’s names are: Paweł Kaczmarczyk & Adam Bałdych Directions In Music: Weather Report (18/07), Krzysztof Ścierański Special Band Edition - Pandemia (25/08), Piotr Baron Quintet - Wodecki Jazz (01/08), EABS - Slavic Spirits (08/08), Michał Urbaniak ORGANATOR (15/08), Marcin Wasilewski Trio & Adam Pierończyk - Arctic Riff (22/08) and Leszek Możdżer Polish Trio (29/08). Q F‑4, Old Town Square, Rynek Starego Miasta, Admission free, www.jazznastarowce.pl. Every Saturday from 19:00.

UNTIL 29.08 » Millennium Docs Against Gravity Summer Cinema at Elektrownia Powiśle When MillenniumDocs Against Gravity started 12 years ago, it was the only festival that screened feature length documentaries in Poland, as well as being the first to award a prize for such films. On a further point, summer cinema has always been popular in Poland, but the COVID pandemic has pushed for film festivals to move outdoors like never before - a move to try and minimise the restrictions. Thus, the Summer Cinema edition of this important event has come to fruition it's a perfect activity to relax, spend some (socially- distanced) time with friends whilst simultaneously coming together to watch some thought-provoking and enjoyable films. Screenings take place at the newly-opened Elektrownia Powiśle (p.46) every Tuesday and Saturday (19:30-21:30) until the end of August in the main square right in front of the characteristic main entrance. Check out their site for the full film repertoire. Q H/I‑6, Elektrownia Powiśle, ul. Dobra 42, M Centrum Nauki Kopernik, Admission free, www.elektrowniapowisle.com. Every Tuesday & Saturday from 19:30.


What’s On in Warsaw: Aug-Sept 2020 | Events

15.08 - 31.08 » International Music Festival ‘Chopin and his Europe’

AZYL by Broadway in Poland

A classic event (in every sense of the word), organised by the Fryderyk Chopin Institute. The International Music Festival ‘Chopin and his Europe’ , now in its 16th edition, focuses on the work of Chopin through the masterpieces of both historical and contemporary artists, especially those from which he drew inspiration during his life. Historically, the works of his friends, Polish composers, who although not as famous Chopin, undeniably created works of great value: Ignacy Feliks Dobrzyński, Józef Nowakowski, Franciszek Lessel, Józef Krogulski, as well as those with whom Chopin co-created the musical world of Europe in the 19th century. The festival performers, invited specially by the Institute, are stars on the world stage - eminent chamber musicians, virtuososos of various instruments, conductors and ensembles. Among those to have been invited to Warsaw many times are Martha Argerich, Nelson Freire, Nelson Goerner, Garrick Ohlsson, Orchestra of the 18th century, Europa Galante, Collegium 1704, Sinfonia Varsovia ... we think you get the point! All music will be performed on period instruments (or their copies) and pianists will play on those of the Institute’s own collection, including one of Chopin’s Warsaw Piano! Selected concerts are also available to watch online on the Institute’s youtube channel. Q F‑7, National Philharmonic, ul. Jasna 5, Tickets 40- 140zł, www.festiwal.nifc.pl. 09.10 - 18.10 » Warsaw Film Festival Yes, film festivals are popping up all over the place now, but this is the original—back this year for its 35th edition. Things have come a long way since 1985 when this event started life as a small student festival. Nowadays, it’s a full-blown red carpet, posh frock affair with prizes running to 100,000 zł. Numbered amongst the elite group of the 13 most important film festivals in the world, the programme includes films from all over the world, most of which receive their Polish premieres at this very festival. Head to their website to browse a programme of stunning works from all corners of the world Q www.wff.pl.

AZYL (ENG: Asylum) by Broadway is a new space for artistic activities in town. Located in the Club Room of the Rampa Theater, AZYL is the initiative of award-winning Polish artist Jakub Wocial in response to the difficult times we live in. The Asylum network gives concert- goers the opportunity to discover new artists without the barrier of a computer screen in a small, intimate space (COVID restrictions have to be respected). Having access to such venues are, of course, a welcome haven for musicians themselves, who have been deprived of an audience, a space to perform and, in any other case, a livelihood for those who call it a full-time job! So far, the stage has been graced by the likes of Edyta Krzemień, Dorota Osińska, Emilia Klimczak and Jakub Wocial himself! The small space allows for the audience to spend time with them freely, not only during their performance. The number of seats are, therefore, limited. These exclusive ticket prices include white and red wine, coffee and tea , complimentary during your evening, and can be purchased on bilety. fm . Check out the Broadway w Polsce Facebook page for event details. Q ul. Kołowa 20, tel. (+48) 514 01 80 01.


Events | What’s On in Warsaw: Aug-Sept 2020

22.08 - 30.08 » Jewish Culture Festival: Singer’s Warsaw A truly multicultural event, the 17th Jewish Culture Festival: Singer’s Warsaw embraces jazz, pop, cabaret acts, theatre performances, literature, visual arts, small indoor and large outdoor performances such as Shabat Shalom, Klezmer Night or the final concert, and of course, history - telling the story of Jewish traditions in Poland. As a direct result of the COVID-19 pandemic, the festival will have a more intimate feel, spread across many venues such as the Reduta Bank Polski, the Jewish Theatre, with the majority of the events focused across the river in the Praga Koneser Center - all with the added bonus of being streamed online! What the festival has to offer is truly amazing, a mix of traditional, pre-war and contemporary music, to performances by Jazz stars such as Italian guitarist Francesco Bruno who will play with the Jerzy Małek Trio, the Szymon Łukowski Quintet, Lithuanian sax player Liudas Mockūnas , Grammy award winning Jazz pianist Włodek Pawlik (Poland), Janek Młynarski and the Combo group (Poland), Dominik Wania and Atom String Quartet (Poland), Kroke (Poland) who will surprise attendees with their latest project, Małgorzata Guthman (Poland), Chaim Steren, Nacman Trojeman, Nathanel Ilvitzki - cantoral concert, Next Generation (Israel), Vadim Brodski (Ukraine) and a highly-anticipated appearance by world-pop artist Kayah (Poland). Families have no need to feel left out of the proceedings. There will be plenty of activities for children and families too! Q Various Locations, www.shalom.org.pl.

UNTIL 11.10 » Crack Up – Crack Down Who doesn’t love a bit of satire? Step up English speakers, we all love some scathing political jokes! Crack Up – Crack Down , an exhibition put together by the art collective Slavs and Tatars focuses on satire and its power to humour us, but to also be a tool of political opposition (or sometimes its failings in opposition). The first edition was presented at the 33rd Biennial of Graphic Art in Ljubljana, now at the Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art. But here in Warsaw, the graphic genre has been expanded to include new Polish contexts. The exhibition showcases a broad spectrum of works, in both historical and contemporary contexts, including satirical magazines, academic sources and even activist works. See works by artists from Slovenia, Ukraine, Georgia, Bulgaria, but also China, Iran, UK, and the US. Polish artists include Bolesław Chromry, Rafał Dominik, Jana Shostak and Jacqueline Sobiszewski. The role of satire too is questioned in the modern-day context, is it effective in the face of the rise of populism and revanchism? Hmm, makes ya think! Q I‑10, Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, ul. Jazdów 2, M Politechnika, Admission 16/8zł to all exhibitions, for two exhibitions 12/6zł, for one exhibition 10/5zł, entrance to project room 5zł, students up to 26 years of age 1zł. Thu free. www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. UNTIL 30.08 » Of Crafts and Craftsmen: The Miecznik Studio The story of the Mieczniks is a fascinating shared- history between modern Warsaw and a family of dedicated to the craft of bronze-work. With metal-crafting clearly in their blood (‘Miecznik’ translates as ‘Swordmaker’ in English), patriarch Władysław established his bronze workshop in 1936. During the war, he unofficially made Polish eagles and combat badges for the Resistance, forged the seals of German institutions needed for counterfeiting documents. The workshop burned down during the 1944 Uprising (p.60), but Władysław managed to recover hidden tools and products from under the rubble and sought to rebuild his livelihood, like millions of other city residents at the close of the war. During the Communist PRL, the Miecznik’s struggled with a system that aimed to nationalise of the craft, whilst enjoying almost-unrivaled position on the market and a flow of orders. Around this time, they created sculptures, statuettes, medals, plaques and badges commemorated historical events and national figures. This exhibition gives incredible insight into the political, economic, social and cultural life of people

Exhibitions UNTIL 22.03.2021 » Here is Muranów

Only rubble was left of the Warsaw Jewish district after WWII (p.56), and its former residents perished in the Holocaust. The new residential district, Muranów, was commissioned to be built and repopulated by people from all over Poland and abroad, who began to mould a new identity of the district. But the foundations of pre-war buildings are still to be found underneath the pavements, houses and green spaces of today’s Muranów. The exhibition attempts to present the unique history of this district, recounting it through the prism of selected locations, their inhabitants and visitors. Q D‑4, POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews, ul. Anielewicza 6, M Ratusz Arsenał, Admission 20/15zł, www.polin.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Wed, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.


What’s On in Warsaw: Aug-Sept 2020 | Events

in modern Warsaw. Q F‑4, Museum of Warsaw, Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, M Ratusz Arsenał, Admission for both perm/temp exhibitions 20/18zł, perm only 20/15zł, temp only 12/7zł. All come with headphones. Thu free. www.muzeumwarszawy.pl. 13.08 - 20.09 » Adelina Cimochowicz. Project Room 2020. Emerging Polish artists at the Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art in 2020 This is the 9th edition of a program aimed at giving an opportunity to young artists, having them create works especially for the Project Room space. Selected from 150 candidates, Adelina Cimochowicz is one of 6 artists that will be on display throughout 2020 at the Ujazdowski Castle Center for Contemporary Art . Cimochowicz is an video/photo artist, heavily- involved with various community activities. In her works, she explores borderline emotional states and nervous crises. Graduating in architecture from the Białystok University of Technology and the Faculty of Media Art at the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw, Cimochowicz is also laureate of the Grand Prix of the Young Wolves competition, the Special Jury Prize of the Hestia Artistic Journey competition and the Maria Anto and Elsa von Freytag-Loringhoven. At the program's end, a jury will select two artists to award with financial grants, as well as an opportunity to their own standalone exhibition in Ujazdowski! Q I‑10, Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, ul. Jazdów 2, M Politechnika, Admission 16/8zł to all exhibitions, for two exhibitions 12/6zł, for one exhibition 10/5zł, entrance to project room 5zł, students up to 26 years of age 1zł. Thu free., www.u-jazdowski.pl. Open 12:00 - 19:00, Thu 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. 25.09 - 17.01 » Ursula Mayer Co nas przetrwa What will survive us? Austrian artist and film director Ursula Mayer seeks the answer to this question in the ideas of ‘post-humanism’, science and mysticism from the East. In this exhibition, prepared especially for the host venue, she creates a kind of microcosm in a calming atmosphere. Organic, mechanical and technological elements connect within, creating a kind of hybrid organism. More questions will then be posed to the audience: To what extent will the development of science and technology authenticate the theses of ‘post-humanism’, contributing to the change of philosophical paradigms, the concept of life and non- human subjectivity? Will it be plastic that survives us or will it be love, written in the algorithm? Q I‑10, Ujazdowski Castle Centre for Contemporary Art, ul. Jazdów 2, M Politechnika. Admission 16/8zł to all exhibitions, www.u-jazdowski.pl.

Katie Melua 08.10 19:00-21:00

Georgian-born singer, songwriter and musician Katie Melua requires no introduction to anyone in Poland or, indeed, Europe, where she was the highest-selling female artist in 2006 at the ripe age of 22. Her first two albums, ‘Call Off The Search’ and ‘Piece By Piece’ both became international number ones, and the story was to continue, after an exciting, record-breaking rollercoaster ride involving several massive world tours. Her intense career took a toll though on her health - she suffered a nervous breakdown that required her to step out of the limelight for a bit, but she since had recovered and continues to charm her audience with her unique and astonishing voice, with maturity and richness that she developed over the last decade, narrating tales of love and life. After 3 years between releases, a new album, simply titled 'Album No. 8' will be released on October 16th this year, much to the anticipation of fans and the music press. Maybe she will preview some new material at her concert in Warsaw? Q J‑10, Torwar Hall, ul. Łazienkowska 6A, Tickets 149-279zł, www.koncerty.com/pl.


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