Bike rental shops like the Creeper Trail Bike Rental in Damascus will not only rent you a bike, but will take you and it to the top of the trail.
The scenery is dotted with farms. (credit L. Michael Whited)
Former railroad stations serve as stopping points along the trail. (credit L. Michael Whited)
Save time for a show in Abingdon’s Barter Theatre.
to observe and learn about the native fauna and flora as well as the historical and economic role the railroad played in southwest Virginia. I’m not sure what I was expecting, but the trail didn’t seem like a former railroad line until we came to each of the nearly 50 wooden trestles we had to cross on our easy ride to Damascus. Our route intersected with the Appalachian Trail at a few points along the way. There were wooden docks built just feet from Whitetop Laurel Creek, one of Virginia’s largest and most beautiful wild trout streams. But we didn’t stop to fish. It was lovely to stop along the way at another former train station at Green Cove for a bathroom break and a chance to buy a snack and Virginia Creeper Trail merchandise. If you’re wondering, there are several vault toilets trail side, as well as restroom facilities at several of the restored rail depots and at the trail head. Within the projected 2.5-hour trip, we made it to Damascus and our bike purveyor where we warmed up near a blazing fire. Other more intrepid riders continued riding 2 more hours on to Abingdon. That trail is not all downhill, but has a gentle elevation increase of less than 300 feet that includes a moderate climb from the Holston River confluence to Abingdon.
Whether you’re headed up or down, you’ll find many places to eat in both Damascus and Abingdon and several great little cafés and ice cream stops right along the trail—even a pet fountain just off the trail in Abingdon. If you don’t choose to ride on to Abingdon, make sure to drive there and visit one of Abingdon’s oldest attractions—the legendary Barter Theatre, the State Theater of Virginia. During the Great Depression, many actors were literally “starving artists,” while Appalachian farmers had produce rotting in the fields, unable to sell their goods. Robert Porterfield, an enterprising young actor, returned to his native Southwest Virginia with an extraordinary proposition: local residents could barter produce from the farms and gardens of the region to gain admission to see a play. So, on June 10, 1933, Barter Theatre opened its doors, proclaiming “With vegetables you cannot sell, you can buy a good laugh.” The price of admission was 40 cents or equivalent amount of produce. Four out of five Depression-era theatergoers paid their way with vegetables, dairy products, and livestock. The theater went on to become a launching pad for famous alumni like Gregory Peck, Patricia Neal, Ernest Borgnine, Hume Cronyn, and other entertainment giants.
TRAILS OF TWO CITIES
COAST TO COAST SUMMER MAGAZINE 2018
30
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