AROUND ROME WITH AUDREY HEPBURN
Unlike Vienna, Rome builds its my- thology at street level. One of the long- est-running film rituals continues to take place in front of the city’s Bocca della Verità (Mouth of Truth). The scene from the film Roman Holiday, in which Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck turn this me- dieval marble disc into a game of trust, is repeated daily. The queue isn’t short, but be patient. Classic romcom Roman Holiday (1953), directed by William Wyler, has three real stars: Audrey Hepburn, Greg- ory Peck, and Rome itself. Hepburn won a Best Actress Oscar for her role as the crown princess of an unnamed country, becoming an overnight movie sensation in the process. Nevertheless, the Italian capital leaves an equally strong impres- sion, with Wyler capturing the city with the enthusiasm of a true lover that en- sures everything looks almost like a tour- ist postcard. Via Margutta Joe’s apartment is located on the Via Margutta, one of the most prestigious streets in Rome. This oasis of artists and home of Federico Fellini looks almost the same today as it appeared in the film. Via Marguta is a charm- ing, historic, ivy-covered and pedestrian-friendly lane locat- ed at the very heart of Rome (Campo Marzio district), not far from the Spanish Steps and Piazza del Popolo. Known as the “street of artists” since the 16th century, it exudes a qui- et, bohemian atmosphere. It is today home to galleries, lux- ury boutiques, antique shops and restaurants, making it one of the city’s most romantic places. The street gained fame worldwide after the shooting of Roman Holiday (filmed at number 51). Spanish Steps As Joe accompanies Ann through the city, they soon arrive at the famous Spanish Steps, not far from his apart- ment. This very popular monument in-
cludes 135 steps that were built between 1723 and 1725 with funds contribut- ed by French diplomat Étienne Gueffi- er. They are called the Spanish Steps be- cause the Spanish Embassy used to be located on the adjacent Piazza di Spagna. The staircase was designed by Francesco de Sanctis, and here you can also admire the Piazza di Spagna and Piazza Trinita dei Monti with its church. The latter loca- tion appears in one of the film’s most fa- mous scenes. In order to photograph her without her noticing, Joe takes Ann on a scooter ride through the city. That ride starts on this very square, with the shot filmed from the foot of the Sallustian Ob- elisk. Castel Sant’Angelo After spending the day together, Joe and Ann end the evening by danc- ing at a bar on the Tiber, with the Cas- tel Sant’Angelo visible in the background. The pair first descend the stairs from the
Ponte Sant’Angelo bridge, and the bar it- self occupies a kind of pier on the water, with the famous mausoleum as a pictur- esque backdrop. And if you take a stroll beside the Tiber at night you will inevi- tably encounter this wondrous sight as you follow the meander of the river – a collection of heavenly angels, their daz- zling white forms glowing in the dark and bridging the waters between the city cen- tre and the Vatican. Beyond them rises a massive brick and stone edifice, tower- ing high above their captain, the archan- gel Michael, whose outstretched wings are illuminated in the night sky. The Cas- tle of the Holy Angel is an ancient impe- rial tomb that was converted into a papal fortress and is worth visiting during the day, but after dark the imagination really enables one to take in the surreal beauty of the 19 centuries of its history. Bocca della Verita This monument becomes an impor- tant narrative motif in the film, as a sym- bol of the sincerity between Joe and Ann. Visitors still put their hands in its mouth today and it remains one of Rome’s most popular tourist attractions, made even more famous thanks to this classic film.
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