BREWING
The question in their minds seems to be one of: “Why do I need to add this? Is there really a bene t?” This is seldom the case with British brewers. This conserv- ative approach to process changes and additions seems to be another signi cant difference. In Germany, because every- one is trained in the same way, most brewers tend to accept there is a correct way to do things. In the UK most brewers accept there is a correct way, it’s just that everyone tends to disagree about what that way actually is. And in the craft brewing move- ment, the correct way is often researched from blog posts or books on beers styles written by US home brewers. Neither brewer saw the less con- servative attitude of British brewers as a negative. And in fact, the ability to inno- vate was one of the main factors behind Jeremy’s decision to move to the UK. The control of oxygen The nal observation from Matthias was about the British brewer’s relaxed attitude to oxygen throughout the pro- cess, particularly in the brewhouse. He jokes that the English translation of the German word for oxidisation is avour. In Germany, processes are engineered and managed to ensure oxygen is excluded from all stages apart from wort oxygenation. Matthias has modi ed his bre- whouse so that he can purge oxygen out of the system to minimise hot side pickup and measures and manag- es-down oxygen at all other stages. He was concerned especially when making cask beer that his zero-tolerance approach may remove some of the oxygen-derived avour valued by drink- ers in the pub. Mad Squirrel sales data tend to suggest otherwise.
Jeremy posing for the obligatory “Can you pretend to be stirring it?” brewery action photo
tutes an average brewery. Matthias said in Germany there are very few brewing operations working on 10hL manual breweries in a business unit – whereas in the UK they are prevalent. It would be fair to say that if he had come to the UK in 2002 he may have found no difference. In Germany an average brewery tends to produce 100-200khL per year and have a fully
the new/modern/craft end of our richly diverse brewing industry – but having experience on both sides of the channel gives them an insight into the differ- ences that exist. The following areas are those they felt were most signi cant. Brewer development The German brewer education system places a heavier emphasis on the applica- tion of brewing knowledge and science. Even the more academically-weighted Weihenstephan course features a nine- month internship at a brewery. Both brewers more than raised their eyebrows when they learned of the level of practical knowledge held by graduates of Heriott-Watt entering the job market. In Germany, technical decision-makers in breweries tend to measure experience in decades rather than years. Perhaps the German system is more akin to graduates already employed in the brewing industry studying for the IBD Diploma. What is extremely rare in Germany is the ‘Head Brewer’ who was a barista or IT professional last week. Career progression in Germany is also slower with the ‘fast-track’ to the top being about 20 years! What a brewery is It may be that because both Jeremy and Matthias are at the smaller end of the UK brewing industry they note that there is a signi cant difference in what consti-
automated brewhouse, cellar and high-spec packaging lines. Jeremy
commented that even small pub or village breweries with 20hL brewhouses have well-designed equipment from suppliers like Kasper Schultz and a brewer who has passed an apprenticeship at the helm. In the average brewery all staff oper- ating on the brewing side would have at least passed the brewing apprenticeship with several of the team having brewing degrees. Perhaps when the transatlan- tic tsunami of craft nally breaks over Germany this disparity will be removed The use of additives Having been trained in the land of the Reinheitsgebot it is small wonder that both brewers have found the Brits a great deal more liberal with process aids. The use of de-glutenising enzymes seemed to be a particular cause of consternation. Even with the shackles of the Reinheitsgebot removed Matthias and Jeremy seem to view all process aids with caution.
Utopian British Lager (please note consumption does not turn you blue)
36 ● BREWER AND DISTILLER INTERNATIONAL I november 2019
i bd.org.uk
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