thentic mezes and an atmosphere that’s adored by locals, there’s Full tou Meze, while Molyvos is often recommend- ed for those seeking modern Greek cui- sine. An obligatory destination for coffee lovers is Thermaikos Garden Bar on the city promenade, while the rooftop bar of Electra Palace Thessaloniki is a must for anyone wanting to enjoy cocktails with a view of the bay. For breakfast or a sweet snack, be sure to drop in at Terkenlis to try their famous tsoureki, a rich Greek braided bread that has become one of the sym- bols of the city. Locals also love the pa- tisserie Choureal, known for its freshly filled profiteroles and eclairs. Where to raise a toast Ladadika is Thessaloniki’s bohemi- an quarter, where good food, music and a relaxed atmosphere come together, es- pecially after sunset. Reminiscent of Bel- grade’s Skadarlija, though with a pro- nounced Mediterranean character, it is located between Aristotelous Square and the city’s waterfront, so you’re almost certain to traverse its cobbled streets more than once. Artists, philosophers and musicians used to gather regular- ly in the taverns of Ladadika, while dur- ing World War II it served as a refuge for members of the resistance movement, only to later become a favourite spot for poets and artists. Ladadika remains the best place in the city to learn about the tradition of ouzeri — taverns where ou- zo is served alongside a variety of small meze bites. In addition to traditional res- taurants, here you will find numerous bakeries, cafes, patisseries and impres- sive examples of street art. Where to shop If you prefer authentic markets to carefully stylised “artisan” bazaars, Thes- saloniki is sure to delight you. The city’s central markets of Modiano and Kapani are just a short walk from Aristotelous Square and are ideal for short detours during explorations of the city centre. Kapani is more traditional — with nar- row streets, small bakeries and tradition- al stalls selling spices, olives and nuts. Modiano was recently renovated and to- day combines historic architecture with modern cafés and restaurants hidden be- tween the stalls.
Dekatrapezia
Vibrant city that wins you over with local charm Thessaloniki and the Halkidiki Peninsula represent a fascinating combination of contrasting cultures, from Roman and Byzantine heritage to Ottoman influences, with an unavoidable dose of the spirit of the Balkans
I t becomes clear after just one vis- it to Thessaloniki that this is a city you’ll want to visit again, a city with layers of history, gastrono- my and daily life that you can nev- er discover fully in a single trip. Yes, Ath- ens and the Greek islands receive more attention, but if you need another rea- son to add northern Greece to your list, it’s enough to know that Thessaloniki is known by many as Greece’s gastronom- ic capital. The beating heart of Thessaloniki is undoubtedly Aristotelous Square – a space that’s simultaneously reminiscent the boulevards of Paris, the arcades of Bologna and Venice’s St. Mark’s Square, albeit with a distinct Greek identity. The pastel-coloured neoclassical buildings surrounding the square were designed by various architects, and a veritable riv- er of residents and visitors flow over its marble slabs throughout the day. As the city’s main thoroughfare, it is virtual- ly unavoidable. An ideal spot to enjoy morning coffee and watch the bustling life of the city, its roof terraces provide panoramic views over the square and the Aegean Sea. Where to stay Located at the heart of Aristotelous Square is the Electra Palace Thessaloniki, a hotel that provides a touch of sophisti- cated luxury to every stay, thanks to its elegant rooms and suites, rooftop pool and spectacular views of the Aegean. It’s
hard to resist the charms of the 5-star ON Residence hotel, where old-world glamour comes to life through 1920s-in- spired marble and gold interiors, while the experience is completed with views of the city’s historic landmarks, superb cuisine, tranquil gardens and a roof- top cocktail bar. Few places better cap- ture the spirit of Thessaloniki than the MonAsty, Thessaloniki, Autograph Col- lection Hotel, where Byzantine aesthet- ics meet contemporary design and mod- ern cuisine. For an authentic experience of Greek hospitality, there’s also The Ex- celsior Thessaloniki, a family-run bou- tique hotel that nurtures local traditions through regional ingredients, art and carefully preserved heritage. Where to eat Thessaloniki has one of the region’s most exciting gastronomic scenes, which is why it’s worth researching where to re- serve a table in advance. For a contem- porary take on Greek meze snacks, re- serve dinner at Deka Trapezia. Seafood lovers shouldn’t miss the restaurant Mourga, renowned for its seasonal sta- ples and creative interpretations of tra- ditional cuisine. For dinner with live mu- sic, Igglis serves classic Greek dishes to the sounds of rebetiko music. Essential additions to any list of top Thessaloni- ki eateries include Clochard, one of the city‘s most famous fine dining institu- tions, and 7 Thalasses, a favourite for ex- cellent fish and seafood dishes. For au-
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