TRAVEL
Scandinavian White Nights: Days Stretch Into Twilight Nights by Peter Symes, Publisher, X-Ray Magazine, Denmark
I HAVE TRAVELLED THE WORLD and seen remarkable places across several continents, yet nowhere draws me back quite like my native Scandinavia during summer. This is when the long northern days stretch into luminous evenings draped in soft light. Whether I spend the day diving
diving unfolds against dramatic mountain scenery. Along most European coastlines, there are lots of wrecks – many centuries old – and some form of historical significance is rarely far away. I live in Copenhagen, the capital of Denmark, which may not immediately spring to mind as a
and then enjoy dinner on a beach in Denmark or on a tiny islet in the idyllic archipelagos of Sweden or Nor- way while watching the seemingly endless sunset, this is where I reset. From May through August, I want to be nowhere else. Europe sits much farther north than most Americans realise. Even southern
traditional dive destination. Yet just outside the harbour, along the nearby coastline, lie wrecks from battles and naval skirmishes fought over the centuries, several still armed with their cannons. But the real attraction here is per- haps not any single dive site. It is the overall experience.
Denmark’s Historic Charlotte Amalie Wreck
Scandinavia, where I live, lies at roughly the same latitude as Juneau in Alaska. Farther north, above the Arctic Circle, the sun barely sets at all during summer, creating the famous “white nights” and, eventually, the midnight sun. Diving in northern Europe differs profoundly from the ex- perience of visiting all-inclusive resorts in the Caribbean, the Red Sea or Southeast Asia. The climate is temperate rather than tropical, of course, but the difference goes far beyond water temperature. Vacations here are often centred as much around culture and atmosphere as around diving itself. Historic cities, music, art, gastronomy and centuries of heritage become part of the overall experience. In many tropical destinations, one travels primarily for the diving and perhaps adds a little sightseeing on the side. In much of Europe, the logic can almost be reversed. Choose a country or region you wish to experience, and then explore what diving opportunities it offers. Even in seemingly unlikely places, there are surprises. Earlier in this series, I described the stunning alpine lakes of Austria, where crystal-clear freshwater
Copenhagen itself is vibrant, safe and easy to navigate, with excellent public infrastructure and a thriving bicycle culture. Within a compact area, one finds medieval streets, Renaissance castles, cutting-edge Nordic architecture, renowned museums and some of the world’s best restaurants. The airport is only about fourteen minutes by metro from the city centre, with numerous direct flights from major U.S. hubs. As for diving, there are several professional dive centres offering guided trips and rental equipment, while many local dive clubs also welcome visiting divers and may even have loaner gear available. Diving is often done from RIBs or con- verted fishing vessels, though shore diving is equally possible. In Denmark, public access to the coastline is protected, including along privately owned shores. Find a place to park,
bring your lunch, dinner or perhaps a small bar- becue, and enjoy the long bright evenings by the sea. That, to me, is what Scandinavian summer diving is really about.
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