Perfect Spaces Closets Installation Manual

How to assemble and install Perfect Spaces Closets

Installation Manual

Table of Contents



Standard Heights

2 – 5 6 – 9

Construction Method


39 – 43

Mounting the face Soft Close with Spacers Drawer Safe Grass Dynapro Undermount Slides Recamming a shelf in the field 44 Overhead storage

Wall Hung Installation

10 – 13

Floor Mount Installation 14 – 16 Hybrid Wall/Floor Installations 17 – 18 Measuring Wall Rail 19 – 26 Wall-to-wall example Shelf over example Corner cleat example No route vertical example Double Rail example Hole Count Quick Reference 27 Installing without Studs 28 -29

45 – 51 52 – 53

Crown Molding Top Mount Crown Cleat Crown

Murphy Beds

54 – 65

C5P Doors Folding Desk For Murphy Bed Folding Table/Countertop

65 – 67 68 – 69


30 – 32

CCHD Garage

Flip Up Doors Hamper Doors

Decorative Hardware 2021 70


33 – 37


Standard Heights





Construction Method ● Perfect Spaces Closets products are warrantied for the entire time a customer lives in their home. As such, the installer must ensure that in every case, the product is installed properly. This means understanding how the units are put together, fastening them securely to each other, and then to the wall. An installer needs to understand where the load bearing points are in the construction so that those parts can be properly secured and must see that this is done properly 100% of the time. No exceptions. ● The general construction method is a frameless euro style shared vertical system. It is made up of verticals, which are supported by either a steel rail or the floor, which are connected together by fixed shelves using cam locks (aka rafix (ray-fix)). Illustration:

● Verticals will always be connected by at least 2 fixed shelves and when the vertical is longer than 60", it will have 3. This provides stability.


● The weight is held up by the verticals. All weight that goes on to any shelf or rod or accessory is transferred to the vertical, which supports the weight. The verticals are then supported by the steel rail attached to the wall, by a cleat under for taller wall hung verticals, or by the floor, as shown in this illustration:

● Once the system is installed, it must then be secured to the wall to prevent any vertical or horizontal movement. ○ What can happen?


■ Vertical movement (which would be in the upward direction) could cause the units to dislodge from the steel support rail.

■ Horizontal movement in the L-R direction stresses the connection points at the rafix studs ■ Horizontal movement in the F-B direction could cause the support brackets to bend and fail

● The securing should be done on each end and in every other "unit" or "bay" until the overall unit feels secure on the wall when pushed/pulled/generally abused. The following illustration shows the points where a small closet needs to be secured to the wall, separate from supporting the actual weight:

● Note also that this securing can be done so that it's not seen in the final installation. 1 - Floor mounted unit gets a screw through its top cleat, which is covered by a fastcap


2 - L-Bracket, which is high enough (87") so that it cannot be seen at the back of the top shelf 3 - L-Bracket just like #2

4 - L-Bracket hidden under the bottom shelf 5 - L-Bracket hidden under the bottom shelf 6 - L-Bracket installed in the cleat under, which is hidden below the bottom shelf ● If an L-Bracket is going to be visible, then a plastic L-Bracket cover should be used to cover it. ● When finished installing a wall, walk it and pull against the unit. Does it hold fast to the wall, or does it pull away? If it pulls away anywhere, then add more fasteners. ● Consider the children who will be climbing on our closet systems and how we want them to remain safe. It's less about the warranty and more about the children. Save the children.


Wall Hung Installation Step 1: Draw a line 1 5/8” below your top shelf height using the longest level you have. Standard (87”) location is 85 3/8".

Step 2: Mark the studs approximately 2” above the line. You’ll use these marks later for attaching L-Brackets to secure the unit and marking them at this height will keep you from having to go for your stud finder a second time.


Step 3: Use 2” screws to attach the steel rail to the wall, being sure to catch every stud, including in the corners.

Step 4: Attach the colored plastic rail cover. The smaller end goes on the top to give room for the bracket to hook the rail.

● Note in step #2 that the installer must think if the stud marks make sense. Studs are typically (but not always!) 16" on center so the marks should be 16" apart. Is there an extra one between 2 16" marks or is one stud reading exceptionally wide? There are many other things behind the sheetrock besides studs and you do not want the screw going into anything except the stud. Use your head and avoid plumbing, electrical, HVAC, and other internal workings of a home. Look around on the other side of the wall to see if you can divine what else might be in the wall.


● Hang all the rail in a room if possible before proceeding to hang any verticals. The more you avoid switching to different tasks, the more efficient you will be. ● Do not measure from the floor again. Floors are often not level, which will result in 2 walls not meeting at the same point. Use a level to make a mark on an adjacent wall that is level with the mark that was measured on the first wall. ● There must be a screw either right behind a vertical or supporting it on the left & right sides. Failure to do so will result in the unit falling after a short period of time. If there is no stud available, then use either wall anchors or snap toggles (best!) to secure the rail (this method should be avoided whenever possible). ● Next, the verticals are hung on the rail ○ Prep the verticals first by installing rafix studs in the appropriate locations. Adjustable shelf pins should also be added at this point. It’s much easier to line all of this up when the verticals are leaning side-by-side against the wall. ○ Hang the verticals on the rail in approximately the correct location ○ Install top shelves (L to R or R to L) ○ Install mid shelves

○ Install any cleat unders ○ Install bottom shelves ● Once the wall is completely assembled, then move to the next wall of the closet.

● Work your way around the room until the room is complete, leaving all units unsecured until they are all installed. Sometimes, a missed obstruction or some other unforeseen condition will necessitate uninstalling some or all of the units. Therefore, it's best to do the minimal install until you're 100% sure everything will fit as designed before securing the installation further. ● Once all the walls in the room are installed and everything fits, check the room for plumb & gaps. ○ Standard gaps between verticals and walls are 1/8" ○ Installers should use their best judgement when examining and adjusting gaps. Some things to consider: ■ Is the gap visible? ■ Is the gap even? ■ Can I hide a larger gap in a corner so that a more visible gap looks nicer? ■ This is where the installer makes the installation look good. Use your judgement and make it beautiful. ● Once gaps look good and you're happy with how everything is situated, secure the installation to the wall using side screws and L-Brackets. Do your best to hide these installation artifacts. They are ugly. ○ Side screws ■ Side screws can be hidden in corners under a fixed shelf at the bottom


■ For fixed shelves at eye level which aren't able to hide a screw, the fixed shelf can be unlocked from the back and raised. The screw can be drilled at the same level as the shelf. When the shelf is dropped back down and locked back into place, the screw is not seen. ■ All side screws should be countersunk. ■ No side screw needs to be over tightened. Remember that this stage of the installation is only intended to prevent horizontal & vertical movement. The screw only needs to be just below the surface of the board to be effective. The goal is to secure the verticals right where they are. Overtightening screws will cause movement of the vertical which will cause other problems. Countersink deep. ○ When everything is locked together, any strong torque against any one vertical will very likely result in a blowout of a rafix stud. Be careful.


Floor Mount Installation ● Before starting to build a floor mounted unit, the top shelf, top cleat, bottom shelf, and toe kicks must be assembled by the installer. ○ Each floor mounted unit will have 1 of each of the parts listed above. They are assembled in pairs and used to construct the unit as shown in this illustration:

● The bottom fixed shelf installs in the 3rd system hole from the bottom. ● When installing the toe kick, do not overdrive the screw. Just flush or the screw will break through the top of the shelf. ● Note that the top cleat is installed on the back edge of the shelf and the toe kick is installed on the front edge. ● Both top cleats and toe kicks are installed on the bottom (cammed) sides of the shelf ● To assemble a floor mounted unit: ○ Attach the top shelf to the L or R vertical


○ Slide in the opposing vertical and lock into place ○ Lock in the back side of the bottom shelf ○ Drop the bottom shelf onto the front friction cams and use the bottom of your fist to fit the bottom shelf firmly on to the rafix studs, which will lock it into place.

● Once a single unit is built, then the next unit can be built in the same fashion using the first as one of the verticals. ● Proceed in this fashion until the room is complete or you come to where a wall hung unit will abut the floor mounted unit.

● Install middle fixed shelves ● Check plumb, level, & gaps

○ Generally speaking, Perfect Spaces Closets prefers not to shim/level units. It can cause warranty issues over time and also, if a floor continues to be further and further out as you go down it, then the unit has to be jacked up higher and higher, which causes an even bigger problem. ○ Closet units do NOT have to be plumb & level. It is more important to make the units match the walls/house so that they look good than it is to have them be plumb & level. To the greatest extent possible, the installer should avoid shimming and leveling. ○ There are situations, however, where plumb & level is important, such as when drawers or doors will be installed into the unit. In these cases, then the most important thing is that the unit is plumb. Many times, if the unit is slightly out of level, the condition cannot be detected with the naked eye and is therefore not important. Out-of-plumb conditions, however, will cause doors and drawer faces to not line up and possibly drawers to not close properly. ○ Drawer faces can be installed in a slightly-out-of-level drawer bank. As long as the face edge matches the shelf edge and the reveals are even, then this is acceptable and preferable over shimming/leveling. ○ If leveling is necessary, then wooden shims can be used. If raising the unit more than a half inch is necessary, then blocking with TFL should be considered. Some type of trim should also be considered in these cases to hide the gaps that result from shimming & blocking. ○ If the installer feels that trim is necessary and wasn't included on the job, then the designer should be contacted as the out-of-level condition should have been noted on the original designs and baseboard or other trim should have been included in the job. ● Once the floor mounted unit(s) is where it's supposed to be, then secure the unit to the wall. ○ Top cleats get a 3" screw covered with a fastcap to secure it in place. Such holes should ALWAYS be countersunk. ■ An L-Bracket above the shelf can also be used in place of the 3" screw through the top cleat. This results in a cleaner installation. Either method is acceptable. ○ An L-Bracket can be installed under the bottom shelf to secure the unit to the wall at the bottom.


○ For drawer banks, then another L-Bracket should be installed under the fixed shelf that caps the drawer stack to prevent any L/R movement that will affect drawer operation.


Hybrid Wall/Floor Installations ● Many installations will consist of floor mounted units which abut wall hung units. In this case, the floor mounted units should always be set first in the room, as they set the height at which the wall hung units should be installed so that they match perfectly. Consider the following illustration:

● In this situation, you are preparing to mount one or more wall hung units to the right of an existing floor mounted unit. ● The center line for mounting the steel rail is 1 5/8" (1.625") below the top shelf of the floor mounted unit ● Once this point is found, then the rail can be installed and wall hung units can be hung ● If there are more than one floor mounted units in a room which will be connected by wall hung units between (even if the floor mounted units are on separate walls), then the floor mounted units should be set in place first. Then, any difference in heights between the units should be evened out with the rail that installed between the two. This will sometimes result in wall hung units that are slightly out of level. This is expected and will result in an installation that, to the naked eye, looks correct.


○ Conversely, if level lines are drawn from the 1.625" point from two units that are a good distance away from each other, then any variation in the floor will result in the units not meeting at an even level. Although technically speaking, the installation is level, the result doesn't look good. ○ In this case, the installer should cheat out the difference by finding the 1.625" point next to both floor mounted units and connecting those two points with a straight line. This is the line on which the rail is installed.


Measuring Wall Rail Rail length is figured a few different ways, depending on the application.

Wall-to-wall example


The rail length for this section could be figured 2 different ways: ● Figure based on the width of the unit. In this case, that's: ○ Add 25.688 x 2 (shelf widths) ○ Add .75 x 3 (3 verticals) ○ Subtract .125 ○ 53.5" rail length ● Figure based on the wall length ○ 53.875 ○ Subtract .125 ○ 53.75" rail length

● Either of these methods will work and either rail length will work since it's only .25" difference. Note that the first method will match the closets better, leaving us short only 1/16" on each side. The second method will actually have the rail protruding by 1/16" on each side. Because this is wall to wall, it doesn't matter which we use here, though method #1 is more accurate and will work in all cases. When a unit is not wall to wall, then method #1 is the only method that will work accurately.


Shelf-over example

In this example, there's again 2 ways to figure the rail length ● Figure on wall length ○ The total wall length is 83.688


○ Subtract 12" for the cabinet on wall 3, which is shown in side profile ○ Subtract an extra 2" for good measure, which leaves still 10" before it has to support its first vertical, which should be enough room to catch a stud ○ Rail length is 69.688" ● Figure on cabinet width

○ Add 24 and 33.313 (shelf widths) ○ Add .75 x 3, or 2.25 (3 verticals) ○ Add 10" for good measure - need to make sure we catch a stud ○ Rail length is 69.563

● Rail lengths were closer this time - within 1/8"


Corner cleat example

In this example, it's a wall hung radius unit, which uses a corner cleat. ● Add 67.5 for the wall width ● Subtract 4" for the corner cleat ● Rail length is 63.5"


No route vertical example

In this example, a no-route vertical is being used on the right and therefore, the wall measurement is not used. In this case, the shelf and vertical widths must be used (no short cuts!): ● Add 35.343 x 2 (2 shelf sections) ● Add .75 x 3 (3 verticals) ● Subtract .125


● Rail length is 72.811

Double rail example

In this example, we'll have to use more than 1 piece of rail because the length is > 96", the length of our rail stock. In this case, you should decide where you want to split the rail - make it in the middle of one of the units; more specifically, inside one where you're reasonably sure you can catch 2 studs and split the rail between them.


● If we look at the units, the widths are 26.255. Studs are 16" apart. So let's split in the second from the left. There should be a stud 5-6" to the right of the second vertical at ~32", and again 5-6" to the left of the third at ~48". Split it in the middle and it **should** work. All install vans carry extra rail in case we get it wrong. ● Total rail width is 135.75 (total wall minus 1/8) ● Left side rail will be 40" ● Right side rail will be 95.75" ● This leaves 12.25" on the left side of that bay to find a stud and 13.95" on the right side, well within our estimate of where the studs **should** be.

Remember that figuring based on wall length is faster in the shop, but cannot be used in 100% of situations.


Hole Count Quick Reference Quick reference guide to hole counts for installing rafix studs for fixed shelves in many of our standard configurations. Knowing these counts will aid you in going a lot faster. ● Top shelves - 1 ○ All units get a fixed shelf installed at the top of the vertical. ● Bottom shelf when a rod is installed underneath - 4 ○ There are exceptions! Check your prints! ● Bottom shelf for a floor mounted unit with toe kick - 3 ○ There are exceptions! Check that your toe kicks are 2.5" tall. ● Drawers - fixed shelf above a stack of drawers ○ When top drawer is:

○ 4" - 2 ○ 6" - 4 ○ 7” - 5 ○ 9" - 6 ○ 12" - 10

● Hamper

○ Fixed shelf above hamper - 24 from bottom (also 29.5") ○ Hamper stay install location - 9 & 10 from bottom shelf (12 & 13 from bottom of vertical)


Installing without studs ● From time to time, an installer will have to use a wall anchor system to support the weight of a vertical. This may be required for a variety of reasons, including: ○ An area of wall that has no stud behind it to provide the necessary support for our vertical installation system. ○ Metal studs (typically in a high-rise or commercial building), which are usually wider on center and also don't support the same weight that a wood stud will support. ● In these cases, one of 2 solutions will have to be used. It is incumbent on the installer to use their judgement and choose the correct solution for the application and challenge at hand. ○ Metal corkscrew wall anchor

● Rated for 50 lbs of support ● Useful for:

○ The last good stud is 6" or less away. ● Do NOT overtighten when screwing into drywall. This will greatly diminish the effectiveness of the fastener. ● Generally speaking, these wall anchors are only good for minimal support. We have seen many failures in the past when they are improperly used. ● Snap toggle bolt

● Rated for 238 lbs of support ● Useful for:


○ Metal stud applications - place a toggle bolt between each good stud for added support. ○ > 6" away from the last good stud and a weight bearing vertical needs to be hung. ● Toggles should be placed every 12" for proper support ● Drill 1/2" hole in sheetrock to install ● The bolt should be tightened down solidly. This will cause the anchor to bite into the drywall, providing additional load bearing support.


Doors ● When installing doors on a commercial job, 170 degree hinges are to be used ● All door hinges should use the longer Euro screws (10mm), rather than the shorter Euro screws (6mm). When installing hinges back-to-back, then the through-sleeve/screw solution should be used. Field drilling hinge pockets You should have a field jig for hinge pockets and a 35mm forstner bit on your van. Set the depth using the screws on the side of the jig, clamp it to your door in the correct location, and be very careful not to drill through the front side of the door (especially when drilling Raised Panel doors!)


1. Clamp jig to edge of door 2. Use jig to start the holes. Stop as soon as the holes have been started 3. Remove the jig 4. Install collar on 35mm bit and set the depth per the picture below. 1. You can use tape to set a similar depth on your 5/16 bit, used to drill the outrigger holes. 5. Finish drilling the holes.

The collar around the 35mm can be set to the following depth to ensure you don't drill through the front of the door. Note that to start the pilot hole, the collar must be removed because it will hit the jig.


Flip Up Doors Flip up doors use Hafele's Free Flap hardware.

Installation video:

If the doors needs to have the installation clip manually located and installed by the installer, the proper location of the top hole on the bracket is: 7/8" over and 1 15/16" down to the center of the first hole. You can then locate the other holes by placing the bracket on the door and following down - each will be 32mm down from the one above it and will stay at 7/8" over.

Double Door Latch Installation (new) CompX Timberline: Double Door Latch. Eliminate the Elbow Catch!


Hamper Doors

● Fixed shelf above hamper is installed at 29.5" from the floor, or 24 holes ● L-Brackets must be installed to hold the bottom shelf firmly down. They will be visible under the hamper basket. ● Hinges are installed directly into the bottom shelf. Location must be found & marked by holding the hamper door in place. ○ 2 Panhead screws are used on the front of the airplane plate ○ 1 1.25" screw is used on the back of the airplane plate ● Long euro screws are to be used to install the stays in the vertical


Locks Timberline Lock System

● Component based lock system ● Parts are generally interchangeable and more adjustable than our previous system ○ Lock barrel can be swapped out if necessary to have a different length ○ Lock throw can be swapped out if necessary to have a different length. If crooked, then can be flipped to have the throw hit the strike plate at a different spot ● Every lock will have a barrel, a core, and a rosette ○ Barrel is what gets installed in the drilled hole and holds the core ○ The core is what has the key ○ The rosette is the pretty piece that snaps into the end around the core and gives the lock a finished look ● Every front facing lock will now ship with a strike plate that will be installed on the shelf to catch the lock throw ○ Standard height of the strike plate will be 5/16". Each installer will have 1/2" plates on their truck in case they need that in a particular application. ● Each installer will carry a lock install kit which will contain several spare parts that can be used to fit a particular application at the time of install if necessary. Each job will also ship with the standard application lock.


Lock Core: ● All locks will need to have a core added. Cores snap into place easily.


● Snap in around core


Front locks ● Standard front locks for drawers will use the Universal Cam Body lock:

● Standard front locks for doors will use the shorter Cam Body Lock:


● These two locks can have their bodies and throws switched out if and when necessary in the field. Extra parts can be found in the installer lock kit.

Strike Plates: ● Strike plates will now be used instead of cutting into shelves to lock drawers or doors. Our standard will have a 5/16" lip, but 1/2" will be available in the installer lock kit to be used as needed.

Side Locks

● Side locks are push button locks. ● Side mounted slide applications will also use the side wedge for locking ● Undermounted slide applications will need to have a hole drilled into the drawer box, itself, to catch the lock ● The same core is used and there is no rosette available for this lock. Drill the hole carefully and cleanly and it will look fine.


Stealth Locks Install Video: Battery:


Islands In general, we do not want to screw islands to the floor. The exceptions to this rule are: ● It's a very small single island that moves very easily when leaned on ● The customer requests you specifically to do so

When deciding how to orient an island, the back of the island is where the measurement numbers appear on the overhead plan on the CAD drawings. In the following picture, the "front" of the island faces wall 4 and so that is the side that should get the double jewelry tray.


Drawers ● All drawers should have bumpers installed ● To allow room for the bumpers, the side rails on the drawers should be set back from the front about 1/8", which will leave enough room for the drawer to grab the catch at the back, use the bumper, and close completely. Mounting the Face Once the drawer box is installed, the face is mounted to the drawer box. To do so, start with a 1/8" drill bit and drill 2 holes in the front of the drawer box, 1.25” from the edge. This location will always hit full depth material, even if a 5-Piece or RTF face is being used.


Next, screw drawer face screws from the inside of the box and allow them to protrude slightly from the front of the box. This will give you something to hold the face against and mark the install location.

With the drawer box closed, position the drawer face where you want to install it. Hold it firmly against the screw tips and bump it with your fist to mark the location on the back of the drawer face.

Open the drawer and tighten down the screws to permanently mount the drawer face to the box.


Soft Close with Spacers Miter Fold & Birch Dovetail drawer boxes have a soft close option. Spacers will also be used to install the drawer slides. This is so that the same size drawer box can be used for both soft close undermount and side mount ball bearing slides.

The spacer is 2 system holes tall. The bottom system hole has a plastic post and the upper hole has a 5mm hole. It’s important to install the spacer in this orientation to avoid any sagging.


Next, the slide is installed into the spacer. 3/4" sharpie is preferred, using the center hole in the spacer.


A 5/8" sharpie can also be used if the 3/4" is not available. In this case, install the slide using one of the smaller holes in the spacer.

In both cases, the screw will bite through the spacer and into the panel, which will hold everything firmly in place.

Grass Elite slides are used for these 2 applications. They come with plastic front clips that install with a flange into the vertical plane of the drawer box. [INSERT PHOTO]

Drawer Safe Changing the default code:

Grass Dynapro Undermount Slides


Recamming a shelf in the field Use a 20mm Forstner bit Cut the shelf down to the proper size

Mark the location (Front/Back) of the cams, preferably using another existing shelf. ● Typically, this will be 37mm (1 7/16" heavy) off the front & back of the shelf

Draw a line using a speed square Mark 3/8" light (closest to 9.5mm) Drill until about 1/4" of material is left Pound new cams into place


Overhead Storage








Crown Molding

Top Mount Crown

● Outside corners: add 2" ● Inside corners: subtract 2" ● Measured & cut at the outside (top) profile


Cleat Crown


Murphy Beds

C5P Doors If a murphy bed is to use a C5P door, then an additional backer panel needs to be applied to the back of the door, which will give additional room necessary to use the provided hardware screws, and we won't get screws poking through the front of the door.

2 quarter-inch panels will be cut with such a job and when butted together, they will be about 3/16 - 1/4" larger than the assembled frame. This will overlap the rails & stiles of the C5P doors by ~1.75", giving plenty of room to catch good wood with the provided screws.

The main method of attachment of the additional panel to the back of the door will be using the provided hardware screws in the bed install kit. Initially, 2-4 sharpies (installed flush) should be used to tack the panel in place. Then, the frame will be laid down on top of that, and then it should be screwed down to the doors through the 1/4" panel, which will secure everything together.

**It should also be noted that the C5P doors are much lighter than other types of door construction. Therefore, one spring on each side (total of 2) should be omitted during the install to account for this missing weight. Otherwise, the door will spring shut.

To start, tack the panels in place using just a few sharpies:


Next, layout the frame on top of the panel and screw into place using the kit-provided screws.

A few pictures of the panel installed under the bed frame.




Completed Job


Folding Desk for Murphy Bed







Folding Table / Countertop The Folding Countertop is a 2 person installation.

Installation uses the following hardware: ● Hafele Hebgo cantilevered folding countertop hardware ○ Several part numbers and sizes: ex) 287.43.419 ● 5/16 x 1.5" Bolts, Nuts, & washers

Install notes: ● The bottom lag bolt has to be pointed toward the back side or the top won't close ● When figuring out the position of the cleat cover, it needs to be 7/8" from the top of the countertop opened to the bottom of the top cleat cover ● When predrilling from the back, it will be 1.25" higher that the countertop height

Photos of the finished product follow below:




CCHD Garage CCHD Garage is assembled and installed differently than our other products. It has no rafix cams and instead, is assembled as a box cabinet with a full 3/4" back and then screwed to the wall. It uses 2” confirmat screws to assemble and then normal wood screws with finish washers to attach to the wall. The top & bottom fixed shelves and adjustable shelves are made from 1” White laminate instead of 3/4". The fixed shelves are 3/4" deeper than the adjustable shelves and can also be identified by looking for the predrilled holes around the edges, which are used to assemble the cabinets. The backs are 3/4" laminate and can also be identified by the predrilled holes around the edges. The doors & drawer fronts are full overlay instead of half. This utilizes a different hinge, as well, which can be identified by its straight-arm design instead of the hump that half overlay hinges have. Assembling the cabinets Spread blankets out on the floor to create a space large enough to assemble the cabinet. Start by standing a vertical up on its long end (where the cabinet would be laying down on the floor - the edgebanding should be up) and lining up one of the top shelves to the predrilled holes. Using 2” confirmat screws (pictured below), attach the shelf to the vertical using all available predrilled holes.

Next, lay the vertical panel down flat against the floor with the shelf you just attached sticking up in the air. Find the back and place it where it goes. Screw it into the shelf.

Add your other fixed shelf (top/bottom) and attach it to the back.


Now, find your matching vertical and lay it on top of the assembly. Add all confirmat screws, which will fully attach that vertical to the shelves and to the 3/4" back. Next, carefully flip the entire assembly so that the vertical that was flat against the floor is now on top and the vertical that was just fully attached is flat against the floor/blankets. Add all remaining confirmat screws to the assembly.

The cabinet is now fully assembled and is ready to be installed.

Installing the cabinets Before installing, ensure you have a flat substrate on which to mount the cabinets. Cut out any chair rail and you may need to fur out areas of the wall if necessary. The back of the cabinet should fully contact the wall at all mounting points. Measure off your stud locations. Predrill holes (no countersink) in the back of the cabinet and preload the holes with screws and finish washers. Move the cabinet close to the install position. If installing 6-12” off the floor, use a motorcycle jack/lift to place the cabinet and get it to the correct mounting height. If installing further off the floor, use a third hand device (or your install companion) to help position the cabinet in place while attaching the first screw. Subsequent adjacent cabinets should first be positioned and then the verticals screwed together before attaching to the wall. This will result in the verticals being perfectly lined up when complete. Use clamps and then secure with 1.25” screws.


Decorative Hardware - 2021


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