Andaluzija Andalusia Svilenkasta gustina salmoreha Dok je gaspačo prešao grani-
The silky thickness of Salmorejo While Gazpacho travelled be-
ce Španije i postao globalni let- nji klasik, njegov južnjački rođak „salmorejo cordobés“, koji u Se- vilji uživa status gastronomskog božanstva, ostao je verniji svojoj izvornoj, gušćoj i znatno luksu- znijoj formi. Za razliku od gaspača, u ko- ji idu krastavac, paprika i crni luk, salmoreho je radikalno jed- nostavan. Reč je o emulziji svega četiri osnovna sastojka: zrelog crvenog paradajza, starog be- log hleba, devičanskog maslino- vog ulja i čena belog luka. Rezul- tat nije retka supa, već kremasti, baršunasti namaz ili gusta kre- ma jarkonarandžaste boje. Tajna savršenog salmoreha leži u tehnici i kvalitetu masli- novog ulja. Hleb se potapa u pire od paradajza kako bi omekšao, a zatim se uz lagano dolivanje ma- slinovog ulja sve muti dok se ne dobije tekstura nalik na krema- sti sos, bez ijedne kapi vode. Sla- noća jela postiže se završnim po- sipanjem sitno seckane iberijske šunke i tvrdo kuvanog jajeta, či- me se dobija savršen balans kise- line, masnoće i bogatog ukusa. Prvobitni salmoreho uop- šte nije bio crven. Pre otkrića Amerike i donošenja paradajza u Evropu, ovo jelo je vekovima bi- lo bela kaša od hleba, belog luka i maslinovog ulja, poznata pod imenom mazamora. Tek u 19. veku paradajz ulazi u receptu- ru i stvara spektakl kakav danas poznajemo. U Sevilji ga ne treba tražiti u modernim restoranima brze hrane, već u autentičnim mestima poput kultne „Bodegu- ite Romero“ u starom jezgru gra- da, gde se sipa direktno iz veli- kih zemljanih posuda.
yond the borders of Spain to become a global summer classic, its southern cousin, Salmorejo Cordobés, which enjoys the status of a gastronom- ic deity in Seville, remained truer to its original, denser and significantly more luxurious form. Unlike gazpacho, which includes cucumber, bell pepper and onion, Salmorejo is radically simple. It is made by emulsifying just four basic ingredients: ripe red tomatoes, stale white bread, extra virgin olive oil and cloves of garlic. The result isn’t a thin soup, but a thick and creamy, velvety spread or thick cream that’s bright orange in colour. The secret of perfect Salmorejo lies in the technique and the quality of the olive oil. The bread is softened by being soaked in tomato puree, after which olive oil is added and everything is mixed until a creamy sauce-like texture is obtained, with- out the addition of a single drop of water. The saltiness of the dish is achieved by the final sprinkling of finely chopped Iberian ham and a hard-boiled egg, creating the per- fect balance of sourness, fat and a rich taste. The original Salmorejo wasn’t red at all. Before the discovery of America and the arrival of toma- toes in Europe, the precursor to this dish was for centuries a white purée made from bread, garlic and olive oil, known as Mazamorra cordobe- sa. It was only in the 19 th century that tomatoes were added to the rec- ipe to create the spectacular dish as we know it today. Don’t look for it in Seville’s modern fast-food restau- rants, but in authentic eateries like the iconic Bodeguita Romero in the old town, where it is poured directly from large earthenware vessels.
Specialities» Specijaliteti | 93
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