REFLEKTOR / SPOTLIGHT
Katanija ima jednu specifičnost kad priča- mo o slatkišima. Tamo njihov najpoznati- ji desert nije završetak obroka, nego po- četak dana, ritual koji se ponavlja bez izuzetka. Da, reč je o graniti. Njeno poreklo vodi do Etne, gde su u srednjem veku lju- di sakupljali sneg i led i čuvali ga u prirod- nim jamama u planini. Leti se taj sneg me- šao sa voćnim sirupima i nastajala je rana verzija granite. Još dublje u prošlost arap- ski uticaj donosi koncept šarbata, ledenih napitaka koji su uveli ideju da se hladnoća može piti, ili u ovom slučaju, jesti. Za razliku od glatkog sladoleda, granita u Kataniji je namerno zrnasta, gotovo neu- redna u teksturi. Postoje ukusi koji su go- tovo institucionalni: badem („minnulata“), kafa i pistaći iz Brontea, koji imaju zaštiće- no geografsko poreklo i smatraju se jednim od najcenjenijih u Evropi. Ali ono što Kata- niju izdvaja nije samo ukus nego način kon- zumacije. Granita se jede za doručak, uz „brioche col tuppo“, mekano pecivo sa ka- rakterističnim čvorićem na vrhu koji se od- vaja i koristi kao kašika. Toplo pecivo i le- dena granita u istoj kombinaciji postali su svakodnevna rutina grada. Pored nje, Katanija ima i slatkiše koji nose religijsku i istorijsku simboliku, poput „mi- nne di Sant’Agata“, kolača posvećenog za- štitnici grada, ili „cassatella“ punjenih ri- kotom i čokoladom...
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KATANIJA i granita
CATANIA & GRANITA
Catania has one specificity when it comes to sweets. That’s becau- se the most famous local dessert isn’t served at the end of a meal, but at the beginning of the day, as a ritual that’s repeated without exception. Yes, we’re talking about granita. Its origin leads us back to Mount Etna, where medieval people collected snow and ice and stored it in natural pits in the mountain. During the summer, that snow would be mixed with fruit syrups to create the precursor to granita. Even further back, the Arab influence brought the concept of sharbat as iced drinks that introduced the idea that cold can be drunk or, in this case, eaten. In contrast to the silky smoothness of ice cream, Catanese granita is deliberately grainy, almost “unruly” in texture. It also comes in fla- vours that are almost institutional: almond (minnulata), coffee and pistachios from Bronte, which have a protected geographical origin and are considered among the most valued pistachios in Europe. However, Catanese granita isn’t only distinctive because of the ta- ste, but rather the way it is consumed. Granita here is eaten for bre- akfast, alongside a brioche col tuppo, a soft roll with a characteristic “knot” on top that separates and is used for dipping. Combining a hot roll with iced granita has become a daily routine in this city. Catania also has desserts that carry religious and historical symbo- lism, such as the “minne di Sant'Agata” cake that’s dedicated to the city’s patron saint, or cassatella filled with ricotta and chocolate...
„Caffè Sicilia“ je svojevrsna institucija, a ne poslastičarnica, gde lokalci dolaze na granitu kao na jutarnju obavezu (nije na slici) Caffè Sicilia is more of an institution than a patisserie, where locals come for their obligatory morning granita (not on photo)
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