October 2023

Top Doctors, Science experiments in space, groundbreaking breast milk research, weight-loss injections, and more

TEMECULA WINES SHINE

FISH FROM A PETRI DISH

A WEEKEND IN OAXACA

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PLUS Science experiments in space, groundbreaking

breast milk research, weight-loss injections, and more

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San Diego’s Top Doctors

There’s strength in numbers. With more than 1,500 doctors and nearly 90 specialties, you can count on our entire team of quality caregivers to support you and your total health.

Because you’re our top priority.

Get high-quality care — close to home Choose from any of Kaiser Permanente’s San Diego convenient care options, including: • 21 multispecialty medical offices • 3 world-class hospitals - Newly opened San Marcos Medical Center - San Diego Medical Center - Zion Medical Center • 5 Target Clinics • 3 mobile health vehicle locations On behalf of all of Kaiser Permanente’s San Diego physicians, congratulations to our 108 colleagues named “Top Docs” by San Diego Magazine for 2023.

For more information about Kaiser Permanente, call 1-800-464-4000 or visit kp.org/sandiego .

San Diego’s Top Doctors

There’s strength in numbers. With more than 1,500 doctors and nearly 90 specialties, you can count on our entire team of quality caregivers to support you and your total health.

Because you’re our top priority.

Celebrate our 35 th year anniversary and take advantage of Egg Freezing starting at $3500 *

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HELPING NATURE LIVE LARGE. SINCE 1874.

Long before we were a museum, we were just a bunch of naturalists and curiosity seekers who loved studying, exploring, and learning. About nature. About wildlife. About this amazing place we call home. Nearly 150 years later, we still gather every day to do just that. You can share in our love of nature by visiting The Nat, becoming a member, or taking part in our nature activities. Visit sdnat.org.

Our work spans Southern California and the Baja California Peninsula. Pictured here, Hollenbeck Canyon Wildlife Area, San Diego County.

WE’RE HERE FOR NATURE.

Island Living Meets Desert Luxury

For 30 years, Tommy Bahama has created a world where the sun always shines, the drinks are always cold, and easy, breezy styles are always in season. Now, we’re bringing that daydream to life with the Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa.

DEBUTING FALL !"!# $ INDIAN WELLS, CA

TommyBahamaMiramonte.com

ACHIEVING A SENSE OF FAMILY IN HEALTHCARE REQUIRES A COMMITTED & PASSIONATE TEAM At Palomar Health Medical Group, That’s All You’ll Find.

Belinda Anne Dure-Smith, MD, Internal Medicine, Brad S. Cohen, MD, Orthopedic Surgery, Brian Wayne Mayerhoff, MD, Internal Medicine, Damon Cobb, DO, Obstetrics & Gynecology, David James Carty, MD, Internal Medicine, Hamad Bayat, MD, Cardiology, James Michael Bried, MD, Orthopaedic Surgery, Jared Anthony Brummel, DO, Orthopaedic Surgery, Jay Robert Grove, MD, General Surgery, Julian Nevile Anthony, MD, Orthopaedic Surgery, Mikhail Malek, MD, Cardiology, Navinder Singh Sawhney, MD, Clinical Cardiac Electrophysiology, Phil E. Yphantides, MD, Family Medicine, Thomas Ronald Knutson, MD, Orthopaedic Surgery, Veena A. Pranhakar, DO, Family Medicine

Congratulations to all of our Palomar Health Medical Group Physicians for their well-deserved recognition as a Top Doctor. This prestigious honor is a testament to each physician’s innovative and compassionate approach to patient care.

Find a Doctor at PHMG.org

Located at the Bahia Resort Hotel (858) 539-7635 | 998 West Mission Bay Drive | San Diego, California

From the lake to the mountains. STAY AWHILE, EXPLORE IT ALL: BIGBEAR.COM

#YOURMOUNTAINLAKEESCAPE

CONTENTS OCTOBER 2023, VOLUME 75, NUMBER 10

Features

!" LOOKING UP The San Diego scientists sending their work into orbit to treat cancer, study the brain, and more.

"# MEDICAL SPECIAL FEATURE

$# FEEDING IT FORWARD A first-of-its-kind scientific collective in San Diego is working to understand the relationship between breast milk and medication.

$" THE 2023 TOP DOC LISTINGS The annual list of SD’s top doctors across 98 specialties, reviewed by their peers and independently audited by San Diego County Medical Society.

A period-tracking app that puts privacy first, the power of pelvic floor treatments, and the scoop on semaglutide injections.

OCTOBER 2023

Siu Ming Geary, MD, Scripps Clinic

Discover what makes Scripps one of the leading health systems in San Diego—with convenient access to primary care physicians, specialists and state-of-the-art facilities—right here, close to your home or work. You’ll also appreciate the convenience of our MyScripps online patient portal where you can make in-person or virtual appointments, manage your medical records, access most test results, get prescription refills and more.

Switch to Scripps today and find out just how good health care can be. To find the primary care doctor who’s right for you and your family, call 858-281-2606 or visit Scripps.org/ForGood .

W ORLD C LASS T HEATRE IN THE H EART OF C ORONADO

Departments

A GHOST STORY

In Every Issue 16 EDITOR’S NOTE Executive editor Mateo Hoke looks back at SDM ’s history and forward at the future of STEM. 20 LOCAL STOKES October’s picks include pool toys for grown-ups, natural deodorants, and decadent Italian furniture. 22 COVERING 75 Reflecting on Top Doctors covers past and present. 148 CALENDAR October events include a performance by P!NK, the San Diego International Film Festival, and a haunting roundup of Halloween happenings. 152 SACRED SPACES Exploring a basement filled with 10,000 snakes. Food & Drink 26 WINE Small but increasingly mighty, California’s hottest emerging wine region is just up the road. 30 MAIN DISH Top drinks to try when you’re thirsty in Old Town. 32 TECHNOLOGY After raising $84 million, does BlueNalu have what it takes to save our oceans?

38 HOT PLATES SDM sta ! shouts out the best things we ate and drank this month, including a frappé-style sip at Saigon Co ! ee, a savory corn cake at Cafe 21, and an elevated version of your elementary school lunch. Arts & Culture 40 ARTS Artist John Halaka’s new exhibition at the Oceanside Museum of Art asks viewers to face the impacts of settler colonialism. 42 MUSIC Hometown Grammy winners Nickel Creek return with a new album. 44 WILDLIFE The founder of the San Diego Spider Society shares his biting passion for arachnids. 46 HISTORY Getting lost in the spooky back rooms of the San Diego Natural History Museum. Living & Style 48 HOME Inside the vibrant, family- friendly home of interior designer Lisa Franco.

DAVID MCFADZEAN’S EXCITING ADAPTATION OF CHARLOTTE BRONTË’S MASTERPIECE, JANE EYRE.SET WITH MUSIC OF THE 1920S. THRU NOV 12 J ANE

LAMBSPLAYERS.ORG 619.437.6000 1142 ORANGE AVE • CORONADO PLAYERS THEATRE

OCTOBER 2023

TOP ! RANKED DOCTORS, WORLD ! CLASS CARE Congratulations to our Top Doctors! At UC San Diego Health, we’re passionate about providing exceptional patient care — and this focus on quality gets noticed. U.S. News & World Report has again ranked us # 1 IN SAN DIEGO and among the top health care providers in the nation. And this year, we became the first health care system in San Diego to be recognized on its Best Hospitals National Honor Roll. That’s a distinction awarded to only 22 hospitals nationwide for outstanding patient care. Thanks to our network of clinics throughout the county, it’s easier than ever to get the health care you deserve from doctors who are recognized as the best in San Diego and beyond.

Want to switch your care to UC San Diego Health? health.ucsd.edu/switch

Departments

Escapes 136 WEEKENDER Crafts, cuisine, and culture reign in Mexico’s most colorful state. 144 ARRIVING NOW Santa Monica’s new Pierside Hotel is leaning into its location and finding its groove. 146 PIT STOP High-fructose heartbreak at the largest gas station in California. Special Sections 101 FACES OF HEALTHCARE

ON THE COVER Artist Keithan Jones honors the everyday heroics of San Diego’s medical pros with this comic book– style look at the city’s latest STEM advancements. For more on our cover, see pg. 22.

OCTOBER 2023

Make it 40!

Celebrate with us and enjoy this special anniversary hotel package!

25% Off Your Room Plus $40 Daily Credit Book now, call 619.445.6002 and mention code SYC40

Must book by 11/30/2023. Must stay before 1/31/24. Subject to availability. Excludes alcohol, tax, and gratuities. Guests must be 21+ to enter the casino.

On the Web SanDiegoMagazine.com

THE CULINARY REBEL REINVENTING VEGAN CHEESE Le Cordon Bleu–trained chef Tony Howe founded plant-based cheese company Scratch House after other non-dairy options fell short.

It’s Here.

BEST THINGS TO DO IN BAJA RIGHT NOW, ACCORDING TO LOCAL EXPERTS The region’s tastemakers weigh in on the newest, trendiest, and most noteworthy spots across the border.

TIPS & TRICKS FOR SMALL ! SPACE DECORATING ON A BUDGET Local designers o ! er their advice for making your home feel like you— without straining your square footage or your bank account.

SANDIEGOMAGAZINE.COM

GET ACCESS TO INSIDER INFO EVERY WEEK! Sign up for our e-newsletters at sdmag.com/enewsletters

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PRESENTED BY

OCTOBER 2023

Making Sure Your Golden Years Shine DESIGNING RETIREMENT INCOME FOR LIFE | EPISODE 3 RETIREMENT MAY BE ON THE HORIZON ! BUT ARE YOU READY FOR IT? Your money has to work harder than ever before once you retire, so you need to ask yourself: Will my assets and investments be enough to generate the same level of income as I received while working, and will they enable me to live comfortably for the rest of my life, no matter how long I live? Remember: you’re also planning for your family’s future— for your children and grandchildren. We factor all of your lifetime and legacy goals into our recommendations so that you and your loved ones’ futures are truly by your design.

Elisabeth Dawson, Author & CEO of Copia Wealth Management

Learn how to rid yourself of " nancial burden in retirement and generate income while you relax with friends and family.

Watch my video series now to take the steps needed to design retirement income at SDMag.com/Copia or scan the QR code.

Or call (619) 640-2622 to get your personalized Income for Life Blueprint today.

LIC #0C72164, #0G81294 Copia Wealth Management & Insurance Services (619) 640-2622 | 2333 Camino Del Rio South, Suite 240, San Diego, CA 92108 - Investment advice o ! ered through Copia Wealth Management Advisors, Inc. Copia Wealth Management Advisors, Inc. is a registered investment adviser.

Editor’s Note

Our Science, Snakes, and Septuagenarian Spectacular

Truly, all 800-plus of our issues over the years serve as historical artifacts. From the black-and-white pages of the ’40s and cigarette-soaked ads of the ’60s to the glossy, big- haired fashion failures of the ’80s, looking back at San Diego Magazine through the years shows us how much San Diego has changed and what has stuck around. But that first issue will always be extra special. It’s a cornerstone for all that this magazine has done and continues to do. San Diego is no longer the small coastal city it was when San Diego Magazine debuted, and SDM is no longer simply a monthly mag. We’re a vibrant, multi-platform media company, with a new website (check it out), award-winning social media (a must-follow), and an expanding repertoire of not-to-be-missed events (Best of San Diego, Best of North County, and the Del Mar Wine + Food Festival, to name a few). We’re covering San Diego in ways that the editors could never have imagined back in 1948. And we’re proud to be doing it. It’s an honor to continue this legacy and to tell the stories of our city. This month, we bring you our annual issue exploring medicine and technology in San Diego. As a hub of cutting-edge research and tech, San Diego is helping fuel advancements in everything from new, ecologically minded foods to our knowledge of the human brain. In this issue, we’re talking to San Diego scientists sending cancer research into space (pg. 56), the UCSD-based researchers leading the charge to better understand how medications a ff ect breast milk (pg. 72), and a local company growing tuna steaks in tanks (pg. 32). It’s fascinating stu ff . On top of all that, October is one of my favorite months of the year. The weather is good, the veil is thin, and the holidays are top-notch. So along with science, we’re sprinkling some Halloween flavor into the cauldron. While heading to Oaxaca to get crafty (pg. 136), to Temecula for surprisingly diverse wines (pg. 26), and to a remote highway in California to fill up on sugar at a peculiar gas station (pg. 146), we’re also stirring in a pinch of native snakes (pg. 152), spiders (pg. 44), and bats (pg. 46). If you’re into science or travel or simply enjoy the creepy-crawly ambience of October, you’re going to love this issue. So put on your party hat. It’s our real-deal 75 th birthday. And we are really excited to have you along for this ride.

urning 75 is fun. All year, we’ve been celebrating San Diego Magazine ’s birthday at events and in the magazine. Each month, we’ve asked a local artist to help us recreate a classic SDM cover with a contemporary twist, and, in August, we dedicated our Best of San

Diego issue to looking back at SD over the last three-quarters of a century. But this month is extra special. This month is our real 75 th birthday. Time to don our tiaras, whack a piñata, and pop some expensive Champagne. The first issue of San Diego Magazine hit newsstands exactly 75 years ago in October 1948. We still have a copy in our archives. I love looking through it. Love seeing how far we’ve come. From the cover to the articles to the ads, it’s a time machine.

SDM’ s very first cover from October 1948.

MATEO HOKE Executive Editor

16 OCTOBER 2023

Congratulates Our TOP DOCS!

Rady Children’s is proud to recognize the extraordinary care our top doctors provide to our patients and families. Your efforts have propelled us to Honor Roll status as a leading children’s hospital in the United States. Thank you for your hard work and dedication.

rchsd.org

THE CONTENT Chief Content Officer

THE BUSINESS

Chief Executive Officer

TROY JOHNSON

CLAIRE JOHNSON

Managing Editor Acting Managing Editor Executive Editor

JACKIE BRYANT JENNIFER IANNI MATEO HOKE

Vice President Marketing and Events Chief Sales and Marketing Officer Chief Financial Officer

DAVID MARTIN

MICHAEL HORTH

Digital Editor

NICOLLE MONICO

SHELBY KALCHIK

Associate Editor

AMELIA RODRIGUEZ COLE NOVAK

Art Director Web Content Editor

Marketing Manager Programs and Events Specialist

LAURA HUNTER

SARAH SAPEDA SAMANTHA LACY

CHELSEA ECKSTROM

Custom Content Editor Staff Writers Videographer Social Media Manager Social Media Coordinator Junior Designer Contributing Copy Editor Editorial Interns

EMILY HEFT

Production Manager Senior National Advertising

AMANDA LENOX

JORDAN ALWOOD

GINA MENDOLA

DANIELLE ALLAIRE JARED CROSS JEREMY SAZON CASIEL SANCHEZ ANNA SIMS

Boredom is not your style, and it’s not ours either. That’s why our vibrant communities of adventurous souls are such an invigorating environment to call home. It’s all here, in one captivating locale with a wealth of distinctive experiences. Fascinating connections. Exquisite cuisine. Attentive service. Personalized wellness programs. Plus, health care support should the need arise. Everything you need to live life your way. be more you .

Executive Integrated Account Directors Senior Partnership Manager Account Executive Sales and Marketing Coodinator Accounting Managers

JIM ELY SCOTT FISK

LISA BILOTTI

LUCY BYAM ISABEL DAVIS ALEX DINOFIA

MICHAEL SHEAR

MADISON BEVERIDGE

LILI KIM MIMI LE REANNA LEBITSKI WILL RIDDELL TATYANA WELLS

VERONICA GRAHAM HAROLD ARNOLD RACHELLE LE BLANC

HR Consultant

THE CONTRIBUTORS

Contributing Writers

Contributing Artists & Designers LILIAN CHENG KEITHAN JONES JONATHAN ROSEN

Contributing Producer ALEXANDRIA OTT

MARA ALTMAN ROXANA BECERRIL MICHELE BIGLEY PETER BLACKSTOCK

BETH DEMMON MARÍA JOSÉ DURÁN AMBER GIBSON CLAIRE TRAGESER

SDMAG.COM hello@sdmag.com OWNERS Claire and Troy Johnson FOUNDERS AND PUBLISHERS Gloria and Ed Self

Call today to book a tour and see for yourself.

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POSTMASTER Please send address changes to: San Diego Magazine, PO Box 460266 Escondido, CA 92046-9800 SUBSCRIPTIONS 888-350-0963 This magazine is printed on paper from sustainable source mills that support all credible forest-certification programs. Please recycle this magazine.

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THE BEST OF SAN DIEGO ® SINCE 1948

SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE (ISSN 0734-6727), October 2023, Vol. 75, No. 10. SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE is published 12 times a year (monthly) by San Diego Magazine LLC, 1230 Columbia Street, Suite 800, San Diego, CA, 92101. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: One year, $18; two years, $28; three years, $40. Subscriptions outside CA are $3 additional per year; outside the US, $80 additional per year. Back issues are $10 per issue and can be purchased at sandiegomagazine.com, if available. For change of address or customer service, write SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTION DEPT., PO Box 460266 Escondido, CA 92046-9800 or email sandiegomagazine@pcspublink.com. Periodical postage paid at San Diego, CA, and additional mailing offices. San Diego Magazine is a registered trademark of San Diego Magazine LLC. Copyright © 2011 by San Diego Magazine LLC. All rights reserved. Repro- duction without permission is strictly prohibited. POSTMASTER: PLEASE SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE, PO Box 460266 Escondido, CA 92046-9800

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EQUAL HOUSING OPPORTUNITY

OCTOBER 2023 18

Working to make a difference in San Diego is one sure measure of success.

At PNC, we take pride in our longstanding commit to the community. From assisting customers with life’s big purchases to supporting healthy retirements to helping small business grow, we’ve been empowering our clients achieve their financial goals for more than 170 years.

As a Main Street bank at our very core, we’re guided by the opportunity to help our customers and communities thrive. That’s why we innovate to help make banking easier, more convenient and more accessible. It’s why we take a one-to-one approach to service and support that’s centered on each customer’s unique goals and needs. And it’s why we’re committed to investing our time and resources into helping to make San Diego a great place to call home.

SEE HOW WE CAN MAKE A DIFFERENCE FOR YOU AT PNC.COM.

Marcy Mackless Market Managing Director, Private Bank marcy.mackless@pnc.com Xiomara Arroyo Market Manager, Organizational Financial Wellness xiomara.arroyo@pnc.com

Alan Prohaska Regional President and Head of Corporate Banking alan.prohaska@pnc.com

Valerie Attisha VP, Client and Community Relations valerie.attisha@pnc.com

Stephan Coleman Market Managing Director, Institutional Asset Management stephan.coleman@pnc.com

Steve Bernstein San Diego Region Retail Lead steve.bernstein@pnc.com

Rick Martinez Commercial Banking Group Manager rick.martinez@pnc.com

Brian Love San Diego Mortgage Lead brian.love@pnc.com

Trending

Finding the Curie When San Diego–based Sarah Moret was looking for natural beauty and body products that actually worked, she became frustrated by the lack of effective deodorants without aluminum and other potentially harmful ingredients. This (smelly) gap in the market sparked the entrepreneur to start her own line of natural body care. In 2018, she debuted aluminum- free deodorant (available in varieties like coconut nectar, white tea, orange neroli, and unscented for the purists out there). Since then, she’s taken 1 October’s picks include pool toys for grown-ups, natural deodorants, and decadent Italian furniture Local Stokes BY JENNIFER IANNI AND WILL RIDDELL

Water Wars Move over donuts, pizza slices, and alligators. Kids’ swim is over. It’s time for the adults to hop in—and we’re bringing our own toys. Float Factory offers two different styles: one a race car, the other a tank. The tank, a.k.a the Pool Punisher, invites party- goers to engage in high- stakes buoyant battles. The toy comes equipped with a water cannon capable of blasting targets up to 50 feet away. Talk about punishment. floatfactory.co

her line to Shark Tank , where she struck a deal with Barbara Corcoran and Mark Cuban, and expanded to offer more products, including body spray and hair freshener. Curie products can now be found in stores like Anthropologie, Walmart, and Nordstrom. curiebod.com

Aperol Sits If it seems like you’re the only one who didn’t spend their summer sunning on a yacht off the Amalfi Coast, now you can get a taste of Italy right here in SD. Rest your bod upon a made-in-Italy sofa or bed from Natuzzi Italia , a luxury design and furniture brand that recently opened a storefront at UTC in La Jolla. They carry a wide range of sleek furniture for every room in your house. Hey, it might not be sipping an Aperol spritz surrounded by breathtaking views of Capri, but their stunning sofas make being a couch potato something to aspire to. natuzzi.com

20 OCTOBER 2023

THE HAWAI‘I COMMUNITY FOUNDATION MAUI STRONG FUND USES 100% OF DONATIONS TO SUPPORT COMMUNITIES IMPACTED BY THE MAUI WILDFIRES. SUPPORT MAUI

Covering 75

ost doctors we know can’t fly or shoot lasers from their eyes. But that doesn’t mean they aren’t at work constantly pulling o ff superhero-esque feats.

Bruce Wayne–style tools to save lives and help those in need. In honor of our 75 th anniversary, we’re asking local artists for fresh takes on retro covers. To remind us all of doctors’ daily heroics, we asked Keithan Jones, a local comic book artist and founder/owner of independent publishing company KID Comics, to recreate this past Top Docs cover, touching on many of the medical advancements

Because the MDs who keep us healthy typically don lab coats instead of capes, it can be easy to forget that the stethoscopes and clipboards they often rock in classic regional magazine covers (like this one from October 2009) are their own

22 OCTOBER 2023

and STEM-related news happening in San Diego. You’ll spot references to the Human Milk Institute, which studies how medications impact breast milk (pg. 72); Orchyd, a period-tracking and telemedicine app o ff ering confidential access to healthcare (pg. 62); new scientific research in outer space (pg. 56); the much-discussed Ozempic craze (pg. 66); and groundbreaking lab-grown fish at San Diego company BlueNalu (pg. 32).

San Diego is a hub for science and technology, with companies like Illumina, Erasca, Gilead Sciences, Thermo Fisher Scientific, and Sanford Burnham Prebys Medical Discovery Institute (to name just a few) calling this city home. If you look close enough, the future of medicine is unfolding before our very eyes. And the doctors, scientists, and researchers leading the charge are actual superheroes. –JI + AR

23 SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE

250 MILES ABOVE, AT A SPEED OF 17,400 MPH ! WE’RE PUTTING CANCER THROUGH THE PACES.

Researchers at the UC San Diego Sanford Stem Cell Institute are taking cancer cells into low earth orbit (LEO) aboard the ISS to monitor disease progression in the stressful microgravity environment of space. Through ongoing launches in collaboration with NASA, biotechnology and private aerospace companies, the institute’s new Astrobiotechnology Hub is now using space as an “aging accelerator” to mimic a process that would otherwise take years on earth – o ! ering an unparalleled view into the molecular mechanisms of cancer and aging and opening the door to the stem cell therapies of the future. At UC San Diego we’re in constant pursuit of ideas that push the limits of what we know into new territory. Learn more about this story and other ways UC San Diego is venturing into the unknown at ucsd.edu

Food & Drink DRINK

Under the Temecula Sun

Small but increasingly mighty, California’s hottest emerging wine region is just up the road

BY AMBER GIBSON

Temecula’s 1,300 cultivated acres are home to more than 30 different grape varietals.

26 OCTOBER 2023

he sun is just starting to set, and it seems like every table is popping bottles at Bluewater Grill in downtown Temecula. The sustainable seafood restaurant lets diners bring two bottles of local wine with no corkage fee, making it a favorite among winemakers and visitors alike. With 17 Temecula wines available by the glass or as part of a flight, this is also a great place to begin a visit to Temecula Valley and get a taste for which wineries you prefer. Raul Ramirez’s tempranillo pairs remarkably well with chipotle blackened swordfish, while Carter Estate’s Blanc de Blanc cuts through the rich beurre blanc sauce dousing the restaurant’s sautéed sand dabs. Within a two-hour drive from 21 million people in surrounding cities (including San Diego, Los Angeles, and Palm Springs), Temecula has become an unlikely wine destination in Southern California. In recent years, Temecula wines have achieved impressive scores from national critics, with Wine Enthusiast naming Temecula one of the top wine travel destinations in the world in 2019. John Kelliher, founder of Grapeline Wine Tours, has seen the region explode since he began operations in 2002. “When we started, there were between 14 and 17 wineries that you could go to in Temecula for a wine tasting,” he recalls. “Now, there are more than 50 wineries.” The vast majority (more than 90 percent) of Temecula wines are sold direct-to-consumer,

making it rare to find bottles on store shelves or restaurant wine lists. If you haven’t visited, you probably haven’t tasted them before. Some people may have the misconception that it’s too hot here to grow great grapes, but the large diurnal swing and mountain gaps allow cool air to funnel through the decidedly Mediterranean climate. “Twenty years ago, it was pretty easy to find a bad wine and it was pretty hard to find a good one in Temecula,” Kelliher says. “Nowadays, the level of winemaking has really gone up, and I think that all of the new competition coming in just keeps raising the bar.”

Like many wineries in the area, newcomer Altísima focuses on the Italian and Spanish varietals that thrive in Temecula’s Mediterranean climate.

Good Grapes

Start your Temecula wine-tasting journey with one of these 10 winners

Akash Winery 2021 Estate Parlez Vous Rosé ($39)

Carter Estate Brut ($39)

Wiens Cellars 2022 Vermentino ($32) An ideal bottle on hot summer days, flavors of pineapple and pink grapefruit in this crisp white wine whisk you away to a tropical paradise. Pair it with mild cheeses or oysters.

It’s rare to find a traditional Champagne-method wine in Temecula, but this racy sparkling wine with notes of apple, lemon zest, and toasted brioche is an improbable Champs dupe.

Easy to drink on its own, and a nice complement to charcuterie or spicy Chinese stir-fry, this is a fun, crushable zinfandel rosé reminiscent of strawberry and orange Starbursts.

27 SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE

Food & Drink DRINK

Winemaker Olivia Bue of Robert Renzoni Vineyards strolls amid barrels of aging wine and grapes awaiting processing.

ITALIAN AND SPANISH VARIETALS THRIVE For a tiny wine region with just 1,300 acres planted to vine, Temecula is impressively diverse, growing more than 30 di ff erent grape varietals. Many of the most successful wineries embrace the Spanish and Italian grapes that thrive here rather than sticking to the same Bordeaux blends that are common throughout California. Olivia Bue, winemaker at Robert Renzoni Vineyards, recently ripped out 28-year-old estate cabernet sauvignon vines and planted Montepulciano, a medium-bodied red

wine grape cultivated widely in central Italy. Bue is also growing sangiovese and barbera. All three of Renzoni’s wines made with these Italian varietals have achieved scores of 92 points or higher from Wine Enthusiast . “Barbera thrives in Temecula Valley,” Bue says. “The vines love heat and produce high-yielding clusters, and the roots integrate deep into our soil, producing complex, layered flavor profiles year after year no matter what climate challenges come our way.” The ruby-red wine is naturally acidic, but low in tannins, making it easy to pair with food.

Robert Renzoni Vineyards 2020 Barbera ($48) Winemaker Olivia Bue’s favorite, this high-acid, low-tannin barbera is rich with ripe strawberry and pomegranate flavor. Sip the lighter-bodied red with red-sauce pasta, pizza, and grilled vegetables.

South Coast Winery Wild Horse Peak Il Temporale ($39)

Peltzer 2022 Syrah Rosé ($40) Syrah is one of Temecula’s signature grapes, and this vibrant rosé is a delicate expression of syrah’s intense flavor, displaying the subtle sweetness of plump red cherries and aromatic rose petals.

This velvety Super Tuscan is predominantly sangiovese, rounded out with touches of merlot, cabernet, and syrah. Drink it now with grilled meat, but it’s sure to age gracefully, too.

28 OCTOBER 2023

Similarly, Nick Palumbo, owner and winemaker at Palumbo Family Vineyards, replaced his original merlot vines with sangiovese. One of Temecula’s newest wineries, Altísima Winery shines with garnacha and Super Tuscan Italian red blends, paired with Spanish charcuterie and grilled octopus. “Temecula is similar to the warmer regions where vitis vinifera [or grape vines] originally evolved,” says Greg Pennyroyal, vineyard manager at Wilson Creek Winery and professor of viticulture at Mount San Jacinto College. “We can produce rich expressions of wines that are considered less noteworthy table wines in their traditional regions.” FUN, CASUAL, AND IMMERSIVE Compared to some of California’s more established wine regions, the Temecula Valley Wine Country Community Plan is a lot more permissive, with land-use ordinances allowing wineries to operate restaurants, events, and lodging. For example, Europa Village offers multiple wineries, hotel rooms, restaurants, and event spaces (plus a wine cave where guests can book a private sound-bath meditation) under one roof. South Coast Winery Resort has a full-service spa and heated, outdoor saltwater pool. You can blend your own bottle of wine at Bottaia Winery, experimenting with estate-grown Italian varietals like aglianico, sangiovese, sagrantino, and barbera in a wine lab complete with beakers. There’s no right or wrong answer here—just whatever suits your personal taste. When it comes to dining, Leoness Cellars and Avensole Winery have some of the best bites and views in the region, and Peltzer Winery features food trucks and live music. The fifth-generation family farm hosts an annual autumn pumpkin farm and petting zoo and builds an 8,400-square- foot ice-skating rink each winter. At times, it might feel a little like the Disney World of wine—but you’re allowed to have fun when your wines are this damn good. And, after all, fun is what keeps people coming back. “We have a lot of loyal customers that we call ‘repeat o ff enders,’” Kelliher says. “Temecula becomes their regular getaway and mini vacation. They like that we’re not pretentious like some other wine regions.”

Looser land-use ordinances allow Temecula vineyards to host family-friendly activities like Peltzer Winery’s annual fall pumpkin patch.

Gershon Bachus Vintners 2017 Astraea GSM ($65) Named for the ancient Greek goddess of justice, this grenache, syrah, and mourvedre blend has been aged for 30 months in Hungarian oak, creating a creamy

Altísima Winery 2020 La Reina ($65) An elegant blend of sangiovese, syrah, malbec, mourvedre, petite sirah, and merlot, this red wine displays a soft, well- rounded complexity punctuated by a bright, elderberry finish.

Doffo Winery 2019 Mistura ($52) This plummy, Bordeaux-style field blend is the first wine that Marcelo Doffo made in his garage two decades ago. It received a gold medal at the San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition.

Masia de la Vinya Winery 2016 Syrah ($46)

Rhône grape varietals do well in Temecula, and this powerful syrah is a prime example by winemaker Justin Knight. Bold black cherry on the palate leads to a savory, peppery finish.

palate and hints of smoked raspberry.

29 SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE

Food & Drink MAIN DISH

Where to wet your whistle in SD’s most haunted ’hood BY MATEO HOKE AND JENNIFER IANNI Thirsty in Old Town

The Garden of Death at Oculto 477. LEFT El Sueño's tequila-and-watermelon Chicle cocktail.

ld Town is San Diego’s most unique neighborhood. Every American city of considerable size has its gastro-boutique North Park, its gets-better-after-dark Gaslamp, its vagabonds-and-vape-shops OB. But Old Town belongs solely to SD. As the birthplace of contemporary California, the neighborhood remains haunted with history. This is where California’s first European settlements took hold on land long-occupied by the Kumeyaay. Since the 1700s, San Diego has been growing and changing around this nucleus. No other city can claim such a start. Today, much of that history lives, while other aspects are buried in the ground beneath vibrant restaurants and shops housed in buildings whose footprints date back hundreds of years. These are streets and alleys in which to linger, to get a bit lost. But worry not—if you find yourself bone- dry while wandering, divine drinks await. Here are five worth seeking out next time you’re in our oldest and most uncommon ’hood. $ GARDEN OF DEATH @ OCULTO 477 —Confess your sins on your way into this cemetery- adjacent speakeasy and belly up to one of SD’s most photogenic bar programs. The Garden of Death is a mezcal-forward a ! air served in an ornate pewter globe, garnished with fresh marigolds. The smoke of the mezcal shines with lemongrass and ginger, but the kick of pasilla-chile liqueur and serrano bitters lingers on the palate like a kiss from a lost love. Though it’s spooky back here, don’t be afraid to order o ! -menu. Since 477 bodies are buried just outside these walls, may we suggest a Corpse Reviver #2? % TEQUILA MULE @ EL AGAVE —El Agave is a shrine to the sacred succulents that give us tequila. The walls of this restaurant-slash- tequila-museum are practically built from backlit bottles. It’s a gorgeous place to sip a shot of something rare or to enjoy cocktails paired

here are hot enough to be served in hell, but delicious enough to bring you back to heaven. Located in the Old Town Urban Market, Elote occupies a cute corner perfect for a lunchtime drink and Instagrammable fire-kissed corn (served on the cob or in a cup). # QUEEN’S HIGH TEA @ CORAL TREE TEA HOUSE —A visit to Old Town doesn’t have to involve alcohol. There’s plenty to do before darkness drowns the daylight and the devils come out to play. Coral Tree is located in the haunted McConaughy House (built 1887), so you can sip proper English tea surrounded by ghosts. The Queen’s High Tea includes all the standards, like fresh-baked scones, tea sandwiches, tiny desserts, and even Waldorf salad (mayonnaise and fruit!). Keep your ears open for phantom footsteps from above, where original homeowner John McConaughy is said to wander upstairs.

with food in the intimate dining room. The Tequila Mule—made with passionfruit and ginger beer and served in a copper cup (properly)—is a day drinker’s delight or the perfect pre-dinner liquid hors d’oeuvre before digging into El Agave’s massive mole and margaritas menu. ! CHICLE @ EL SUEÑO — Opened last summer next to Casa Guadalajara by industry veterans Pietro Busalacchi and Gustavo Rios, El Sueño is one of the newer kids on the Old Town block. The restaurant and bar’s upbeat party atmosphere pairs nicely with their cocktail offerings, with technicolor bevs ranging from classic mezcal and tequila combinations to margaritas and creative shots. A standout is the Chicle, a bright pink drink named after the Mexican gum and made with Casa Noble Blanco, watermelon, Amaro Montenegro, and pistachio, served in a classic coupe glass with a floral garnish. " MICHELADA @ ELOTE — Simultaneously heating you up and cooling you off, the michelada might be the perfect noon beverage. Made with Escondido’s Cultura michelada mix and rim paste, the spicy beers

Listen Up! For more Main Dish, tune in to Happy Half Hour , our food and drink podcast, every week: sdmag.com/hhh .

30 OCTOBER 2023

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Food & Drink TECHNOLOGY Toro!

Toro!

After raising $84 million, does BlueNalu have what it takes to save our oceans?

BY BETH DEMMON

32 OCTOBER 2023

’ve never been a picky eater. I chow down on meat, plants, plant-based meat alternatives, and pretty much anything put in front of me. (One big exception is honeydew, which tastes like a slushie made of burps and depression.) But despite my general open-mindedness about what I consume, I have yet to try what some consider to be the future of food: cell-cultured meat. Cell-cultured meat, sometimes called lab-grown meat or “clean” meat, is produced by taking actual animal cells and culturing their growth inside sterile stainless-steel bioreactors. Allergic to shellfish? You’re allergic to cell-cultured shellfish as well. That’s because it’s a genuine animal product with similar (if not identical) nutritional value to the real thing, made without feeding, raising, or slaughtering an animal. This cutting-edge protein is what San Diego company BlueNalu hopes to o ff er the world: a sustainable, predictable, healthy, authentic alternative to wild-caught and farm-raised fish.

“Every food product begins in a lab,” explains BlueNalu CEO Lou Cooperhouse, saying their approach is already quite common in many other food segments, including fermented beverages, cheese, and candy. “This process has just not been applied to seafood before.” Due to the high cost of this developing technology, not many products are widely available yet, and the limited number of brands that do exist focus more on mammal and poultry alternatives like beef, chicken, and pork. Cooperhouse has spent decades identifying opportunities for innovation within the food industry, and in the mid-2010s, he watched as alternative- protein technology raced forward. But despite seafood’s popularity and perceived health benefits, virtually no one was working on a fish alternative. With all the problems fish face—warming oceans filling with trash, microplastic and heavy-metal absorption, illegal and overfishing, and supply chain ine ffi ciencies, to name just a few—he thought if someone would be able to achieve a consistently available, consistently priced, and consistent-tasting alternative, it would be the holy grail.

Cultured from real animal cells, lab- grown toro is all but indistinguishable from wild-caught and farm-raised fish.

33 SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE

Food & Drink TECHNOLOGY

Building a Better Fish At BlueNalu’s Sorrento Valley headquarters, Cooperhouse and chief technology o ffi cer Lauran Madden, PhD, walk me through their vision. Their goals are not simple, small, or straightforward, largely due to the fact that they’re one of the first in the field. The process of establishing a supply chain of raw materials, developing alternative-protein technology, creating benchmarks for release, and lobbying for regulatory approval in multiple countries—not to mention convincing investors and consumers to put their faith in something brand-new—is a long, arduous one, which is why you haven’t seen BlueNalu products on menus quite yet. But if they manage to pull it o ff , they believe their products have the potential to change—and feed—the world. But before BlueNalu can o ff er a more sustainable fish to the masses, they must demonstrate not just a ff ordability, but long-term viability and profitability to the investors that have put in $84 million and counting. That’s why, for their inaugural product, they selected cell-cultured toro, replicating the prized cut from bluefin tuna. Because toro is one of the more recognizable, in-demand, and beloved cuts of fish around the world, Cooperhouse says growing a cell- cultured alternative could standardize market pricing and availability to high-end restaurants, even more so than farm- raised fish.

INSET Blue Nalu’s chief technology officer, Lauran Madden, PhD.

34 OCTOBER 2023

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35 SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE

Food & Drink TECHNOLOGY

How to Feed the World I’m not squeamish about eating food grown in a lab (although plenty of people are), and neither is Tommy Gomes, a fifth- generation San Diego fisherman and star of The Fishmonger on Outdoor Channel. He tells me that if BlueNalu can actually do what it says it can do, he’s all for it. Considering his background fishing in the Pacific Ocean, I ask Gomes if he’s worried about the future of his profession. His answer: Nope. “There are plenty of fish,” he assures me. Plus, if cell-cultured technology helps reduce world hunger, so much the better. “I have no stake in this game … [but] we’re going to need this protein to one day feed our planet,” he warns. Because there is so little public knowledge and so many misconceptions about cell-cultured meat—and because consumers are increasingly interested in food-sourcing transparency—Madden aims to be as clear as possible about the process and benefits of cell culturing. “The more people learn about the food system and what they are eating today … the more it becomes a personal health and a personal choice issue. What are you putting in your body and why are you choosing to do so?” she asks. From the Lab, Across the Globe In June 2023, the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) approved the first chicken-alternative lab-grown meat products, and Cooperhouse is confident BlueNalu will get FDA-approval by the middle of 2024, followed by the green light from administrations in Singapore, Japan, Korea, and Thailand and throughout Europe. If approved, they hope to have products on shelves and in restaurants by the end of next year, but Madden says the stigma of lab-grown meat remains. Still, she’s confident BlueNalu’s e ff orts to educate restaurateurs and premium food-service operators will trickle down to consumers, winning over skeptics and helping BlueNalu’s products become the gold standard of seafood. “We know much more about the cell-cultured tuna than people know about the tuna they get from the sushi restaurant, that’s for sure,” she promises. Borillo says she’s excited about its potential, even with the educational hurdle. “Embracing cell-cultured seafood could reshape our business,” she explains. Products like BlueNalu’s could help Borillo be more sustainable and diversify her restaurant’s menu. On a global level, cell-cultured options would reduce overfishing and bycatch. “It’s a win-win for our business and the health of the ocean,” she adds. Can cell-cultured meat feed the world? Can our seas be saved? Can we grow our sushi and eat it, too? These are all questions that I ponder while driving away from BlueNalu, crunching on a bag of chili cheese–flavored corn chips. Like millions of others, I happily (and cluelessly) chow down on things like disodium inosinate, annatto extract, and maltodextrin. One day, will those same millions mindlessly munch on cell-cultured toro? Gomes, for one, thinks there’s a strong possibility. “Time will tell,” Gomes says. “Why not give it a shot?”

“Seasonality goes away. Price fluctuation goes away. We can really have a committed, year-round supply,” he promises. Shihomi Borillo, proprietor of San Diego’s Azuki Sushi and Kinme Omakase, admits she hasn’t tried BlueNalu’s prototype yet, but she likes what she sees so far. “I’m truly amazed by how closely the color and marbling resemble authentic toro,” she explains. “This is crucial because toro is often enjoyed in simple preparations like sashimi or nigiri.” Cooperhouse says that while premium products like toro command high prices, once BlueNalu has successfully integrated themselves into the burgeoning market, they’ll be able to pivot “from value to volume.” Those initial investments have allowed the company to start developing at least eight di ff erent species in two facilities in Sorrento Valley, with another facility on the way. Once the new lab becomes operational, BlueNalu hopes to produce six million pounds of toro annually. That’s a drop in the bucket compared to the billions of pounds of fish caught every year. “But [for] bluefin-tuna toro, it’s actually a fairly decent amount,” he adds. “The more people learn about the food system and what they are eating today … the more it becomes a personal health and a personal choice issue . What are you putting in your body and why are you choosing to do so?”

36 OCTOBER 2023

Food & Drink HOT PLATES Get Some SDM staff shouts out our favorite food finds this month an Diego is home to more than 5,000 restaurants—meaning that you could eat at a new one every single day for over 13 years before you had to resort to repeats. With all that goodness, it can be tough to narrow down your next dinner spot. That’s where we come in. Here are 15 of our favorite meals (and co ff ees, cocktails, and croissants) this month. Go get some. S BY ALEX DINOFIA, EMILY HEFT, MATEO HOKE, JENNIFER IANNI, TROY JOHNSON, LILI KIM, SAMANTHA LACY, NICOLLE MONICO, WILL RIDDELL, AND AMELIA RODRIGUEZ

LITTLE ASIA SLIDERS PORK BELLY SLIDERS

With dozens of seductive smells swirling in the air at the OB Farmers Market, it’s nearly impossible to choose a bulwark against hunger-induced overshopping. Allow me to make your life easier: Get the pork belly sliders from Little Asia Sliders. Decadent, fatty pork belly is nestled in a soft bao bun and topped with fresh carrot, cucumber, cilantro, and a drizzle of crunchy chili oil. Is it Wednesday yet? –LK

SAIGON COFFEE HANOI EGG COFFEE Starbucks who? This pick-me-up with Vietnamese coffee and fresh egg foam at Saigon is a richer, more satisfying version of a frappuccino (although, sadly, not blended). It’s breakfast on ice. Saigon started at the Hillcrest Farmers Market in 2012 and now boasts a buzzy new location in North Park. See you in line. –MH !

CAFE 21 SHRIMP CORN CAKE

Cafe 21’s bloody marys (topped with a salad bar; served in a ceramic head) deservedly get lots

GLUTENUS MAXIMUS BUTTERSCOTCH PECAN STICKY BUN

of airtime, but the decadent shrimp- and-potato corn cake is an underrated sleeper hit. It’s crowned with a poached egg and

Suns out, buns out, especially when those buns are covered in butterscotch and dusted with pecan bits. The perfect blend of salty and sweet, this roll is chewy but not overly dense. These buns are huge, so grab two forks in case you need to share (though you probably won’t want to). Check Glutenus’ website to see what farmers market it’s currently stationed at. –WR

lounging in an herby pool of cilantro cream sauce rich enough to stand up to the 10 a.m. vodka. –AR

LEFTY’S PIZZA SPINACH MUSHROOM DEEP DISH

OSCAR’S MEXICAN SEAFOOD CEVICHE

On the list of edible items that can be served in a cup, ceviche isn’t usually the first thing that comes to mind. The proximity of Oscar’s to the Pacific means this place is all about their fish. The ceviche menu includes shrimp, fish, scallop, and bluefin tuna served with crispy, hand-sized tortilla chips. This dippable snack has become my favorite post- beach ritual. –AD

I don’t often jump into the pool that is deep-dish pizza, but at this Windy City joint covered

in (admittedly bland) Illinois license plates, it’s a felony not to. Sure, Lefty’s serves delicate, crispy thin-crust, too,

but come on. Catch me doing a double-reverse- pike backflip into this deep

Chicago dough. –MH

38 OCTOBER 2023

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