November 2023

Shaping San Diego: The Bold, Brilliant Women Powering Our Economy and Culture

SUN - CHARGED CARS DRIPPIN’ IN BITCHIN’ SAUCE AMERICA’S FINEST GIFT GUIDE

Shaping San Diego

THE BOLD, BRILLIANT WOMEN POWERING OUR ECONOMY AND CULTURE

CHARLIZE THERON NAVITIMER FOR THE JOURNEY

Meets Beachfront Adventure Laidback Luxury

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LIVE ENTERTAINMENT HOLIDAY ACTIVITIES & MORE! REAL SNOWFALL PHOTOS WITH SANTA Join Santa, Mrs. Claus, & the Elves for

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NATURE’S EVERYWHERE YOU LOOK. WE’LL HELP YOU SEE.

We live in a special place. With an amazing variety of plants and wildlife, all with a special story to tell. We help tell those stories through exhibits at the Museum, our outdoor programs, and by doing research that supports local conservation.

Nature’s everywhere we look, and that’s why we’re here for nature. See for yourself at sdnat.org.

Our work spans Southern California and the Baja California Peninsula. Pictured here, Tecolote Canyon, San Diego County.

WE’RE HERE FOR NATURE.

From the lake to the mountains. STAY AWHILE, EXPLORE IT ALL: BIGBEAR.COM

#YOURMOUNTAINLAKEESCAPE

Thanks for voting us # 1 in service!

San Diego, you’ve never seen anything quite like this.

is the unbelievable selection. That’s because everywhere you turn, in every aisle, there’s— well, more. But believe this: A typical store carries 8,167 unique wines—with up to a quarter of a million bottles on the shelves—4,874 unique spirits and 2,693 unique beers. Walk through our doors and you won’t believe your eyes. Everywhere you turn there’s more. In fact, a typical store carries 8,167 unique wines, 4,874 unique spirits and 2,693 unique beers. Sure, we have unbeatable selection and prices, but we bet you’ll keep coming back for unrivaled service. Plan your visit at TotalWine.com .

1023_SDG_MAG_ID9458

CONTENTS NOVEMBER 2023, VOLUME 75, NUMBER 11

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72 BEHIND THE BRANDS We dive into the innovative ideas making San Diego’s economy hum, from solar-powered EVs and fossil fuel – free nylon to video games, medicines, and luxury watches. Features

64 WOMEN POWERED San Diego business is booming. We bring you 12 local entrepreneurs worth knowing.

80 2023 GIFT GUIDE

It’s that time of year again: the season of giving. We rounded up our favorite trinkets, tipples, toys, and treasures for optimal holiday gifting.

8

NOVEMBER 2023

Island Living Meets Desert Luxury

For 30 years, Tommy Bahama has created a world where the sun always shines, the drinks are always cold, and easy, breezy styles are always in season. Now, we’re bringing that daydream to life with the Tommy Bahama Miramonte Resort & Spa.

DEBUTING FALL 2023 · INDIAN WELLS, CA

TommyBahamaMiramonte.com

Departments

In Every Issue 16 PUBLISHER’S NOTE CEO Claire Johnson remembers a pioneering San Diego woman, Ellen Browning Scripps, and introduces us to the other exceptional women honored in November’s pages. 20 LOCAL STOKES This month’s hot list features wearable food art, cargo pants for your shoulders, and eco-friendly 3D-printed planters shaped like pets. 22 COVERING 75 What’s old is new again in this cover recreation that features Bali Hai, three-wheeled cars, and local women changing San Diego for the better. 116 CALENDAR November is overflowing with fun things to do around town—fête pioneering local women at our annual Celebrating Women event, light up the season at the San Diego Botanic Garden, turkey trot through O’side, and more. 120 SACRED SPACES At Ringer’s Roller Rink in La Mesa, the San Diego Wildfires roller derby team drops elbows in the name of bonding and friendship. Food & Drink 24 HOT PLATES SDM sta ff shouts out our favorite food finds this month: honeydew gelato in Convoy, a dreamy deli ham sandwich in Logan Heights, the wine bar version of the ubiquitous espresso martini, and more. 26 DRINKS East Village’s Talitha Co ff ee provides employment and support to survivors of sex tra ffi cking. 28 MAIN DISH This month’s food guide checks in on Hillcrest. Once the home of San Diego’s dining revolution, the LGBTQ hub is hitting its stride with a solid balance of old and new. 30 PEOPLE North Park’s community food program MAKE Café finds a permanent home. Arts & Culture 46 ARTS Julie Collens of Stone Steps Herbarium transforms foraged seaweed into art. 48 SPORTS Digital Editor Nicolle Monico enlists pro runner Chari Hawkins to help her find her stride again. Living 52 HEALTH San Diego’s first women-only wellness center is providing a much-needed safe space for mental health treatment. 54 HOME We get an exclusive look at a Mission Hills oasis: the remodeled 1970s craftsman of local pastry chef and restaurant owner Karen Krasne.

28 54

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NOVEMBER 2023

Escapes 108 WEEKENDER In Arizona, Indigenous- owned farms are preserving Native history while o ff ering a window to the future. 114 ARRIVING NOW The 1 Hotel San Francisco arrives, with a focus on sustainability and opulent comforts. Departments 108

Special Sections 36 PRIVATE DINING GUIDE 62 WINTER ESCAPES 86 CELEBRATING WOMEN 118 PARTY PAGES

Monarch School brings hope to unhoused youth. We bring the power to help them shine bright.

ON THE COVER This month we’re celebrating women. Art director Samantha Lacy collaged our cover to show the “overwhelming impact that women are making in this city,” she says. We wanted the form to reflect how women changemakers’ e ff orts a ff ect all aspects of life in San Diego— dynamic parts of a larger whole.

Learn more at BringTheEnergy.com

12

NOVEMBER 2023

On the Web SanDiegoMagazine.com

Elisabeth Dawson, Author & CEO of Copia Wealth Management

HIDDEN GEM: THE LOCAL BAKERY GRINDING ITS OWN FLOUR Companion Bread Company is one of only a few bakeries to mill its own grains, making loaves more accessible to gluten-sensitive eaters.

Female Empowerment Through Finance DESIGNING RETIREMENT INCOME FOR LIFE | EPISODE 4 Though more women are leading the way in business across myriad industries, only three percent of married women drive the fi nancial conversations for their household. We aim to change that statistic and give all women, single or with a spouse, fi nancial autonomy. Every fi nancial decision has a cause and e ff ect. When thinking about your family’s future, there is a vision in mind. Is your current retirement plan enough to make that vision happen? Are the fi nancial choices you and your spouse are making right now working towards those things? Together, we can make a plan to ensure your family is protected fi nancially, no matter what.

HOW & WHERE TO SCORE THE BEST DEALS AT THRIFT STORES IN SAN DIEGO Expert second-hand shoppers dole out their top tips for adding pre-loved looks to your closet.

Watch my video series now to take the steps needed to design retirement income at SDMag.com/Copia or scan the QR code.

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BEST TIPS FOR ECO - FRIENDLY BACKPACKING The best ways to help minimize your footprint during your next outdoor adventure.

GET ACCESS TO INSIDER INFO EVERY WEEK!

Sign up for our e-newsletters at sdmag.com/enewsletters

LIC #0C72164, #0G81294 Copia Wealth Management & Insurance Services (619) 640-2622 | 2333 Camino Del Rio South, Suite 240, San Diego, CA 92108 - Investment advice o ff ered through Copia Wealth Management Advisors, Inc. Copia Wealth Management Advisors, Inc. is a registered investment adviser.

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NOVEMBER 2023

GOLETA :: SANTA BARBARA :: MONTECITO :: SUMMERLAND

There are coastlines. Then there are mountains that leap out of the ocean to cradle vibrant neighborhoods and secluded enclaves in their outstretched arms.

More than beautiful, it’s

SANTA BARBARA BRILLIANT

The American Riviera ® - where mountains meet ocean

SantaBarbaraCA.com

All contents ©2023 Visit Santa Barbara. All rights reserved.

Publisher’s Note

Embodying the Spirit n 1855, a young woman from the Illinois prairies became the only one of her 10 siblings to attend college. They didn’t give degrees to women at the time, but Ellen Browning Scripps wanted to learn. They granted her a “certificate,” and she became a school teacher in a one-room schoolhouse. After the Civil War, the young woman left teaching to pursue a career in journalism, helping her brother build a publishing empire in Detroit. She started a column where she broke down news into short, digestible bits—a sign of her media savvy. As a shareholder in his company, she often provided him with business and financial advice. He credited her with saving him from financial ruin more than once. Together, they made a fortune. I

San Diego Natural History Museum. She was a fixture at La Jolla Woman’s Club, actively participating in progressive movements. Today, San Diego continues to be shaped by bold, brilliant, fearless women. Some of the women featured in this issue were born here. Like Ellen, many were not. San Diego is the thread connecting them all, and we o ff er

this issue of SDM as a ripple in the e ff ect they’ve brought, are bringing, will bring. On page 30, read about how MAKE Projects, founded by Anchi Mei, provides refugee and immigrant women job skills through food. Jenny Barber’s company, Talitha Co ff ee, developed a program to help tra ffi cking survivors rebuild their lives and create community (pg. 26). Check out our feature exploring local women-owned businesses (pg. 64) and support their entrepreneurial ventures on your next trip out. We throw our annual Celebrating Women event on November 2 nd . This

She traveled the world, came to California, and bought land in San Diego with her family (Scripps Ranch). It’s hard to encapsulate the contributions Ellen Browning Scripps made to San Diego. She fundamentally shaped the identity of this city before she was even allowed to vote. She stayed true to her former school teacher self and donated the majority of her wealth to science and education, including Scripps Institution of Oceanography. She funded the

year will be di ff erent. For the first time, the local public nominated and voted on their fields’ pioneers and rising stars. We had an extraordinary number of votes, solidifying what we were already certain of: San Diego women show up for their peers. Come join us for a panel discussion and a networking reception to celebrate the women shaping San Diego today. The collage cover image, designed by SDM art director Samantha Lacy, serves as a visual representation of the many facets and angles that women occupy as entrepreneurs, culture-shifters, and tastemakers in this city. Ellen passed away just shy of her 95 th birthday at her oceanfront cottage in La Jolla. Her obituary in The New York Times noted her as a woman who had mastered both “the art of giving” and the “art of living.” The women in this issue embody that spirit.

CLAIRE JOHNSON Chief Executive O ffi cer

16 NOVEMBER 2023

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THE CONTENT

THE BUSINESS

Chief Content Officer

Vice President Marketing and Events Marketing Manager Chief Sales and Marketing Officer Chief Financial Officer Chief Executive Officer Programs and Events Specialist Production Manager Senior National Advertising Executive Integrated Account Directors Senior Partnership Manager Account Executive Sales and Marketing Coodinator

TROY JOHNSON JACKIE BRYANT JENNIFER IANNI MATEO HOKE NICOLLE MONICO AMELIA RODRIGUEZ

CLAIRE JOHNSON

Managing Editor Executive Editor

DAVID MARTIN

SHELBY KALCHIK MICHAEL HORTH

Acting Managing Editor

Digital Editor

Associate Editor

LAURA HUNTER

Web Content Editor

COLE NOVAK

CHELSEA ECKSTROM

Art Director

SARAH SAPEDA EMILY HEFT JORDAN ALWOOD DANIELLE ALLAIRE JEREMY SAZON SAMANTHA LACY CASIEL SANCHEZ ANNA SIMS LUCY BYAM TATYANA WELLS KATELYN BERBERICH

AMANDA LENOX GINA MENDOLA

Custom Content Editor Social Media Manager Social Media Coordinator

LISA BILOTTI JIM ELY SCOTT FISK

Videographer

Staff Writer

Junior Designer Contributing Copy Editor Editorial Interns

MICHAEL SHEAR

MADISON BEVERIDGE

Accounting Managers

VERONICA GRAHAM HAROLD ARNOLD RACHELLE LE BLANC

Social Media Intern

HR Consultant

THE CONTRIBUTORS

Contributing Writers

Contributing Photographers

Contributing Artists & Designers LILIAN CHENG JONATHAN ROSEN

Contributing Producer

MARA ALTMAN ROXANA BECERRIL

ANNELISE JOLLEY LILI KIM MIMI LE KATIE PACK WILL RIDDELL CLAIRE TRAGESER

ALEXANDRIA OTT

ARIANA DREHSLER MATT FURMAN BECKA VANCE ADRIANA ZEHBRAUSKAS

MICHELE BIGLEY NYLAH BURTON ASHTYN DOUGLAS - ROSA MACKENZIE ELMER

SDMAG.COM hello@sdmag.com OWNERS Claire and Troy Johnson FOUNDERS AND PUBLISHERS Gloria and Ed Self

POSTMASTER Please send address changes to: San Diego Magazine, PO Box 460266 Escondido, CA 92046-9800 SUBSCRIPTIONS 888-350-0963 This magazine is printed on paper from sustainable source mills that support all credible forest-certification programs. Please recycle this magazine.

THE BEST OF SAN DIEGO ® SINCE 1948

SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE (ISSN 0734-6727), November 2023, Vol. 75, No. 11. SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE is published 12 times a year (monthly) by San Diego Magazine LLC, 1230 Columbia Street, Suite 800, San Diego, CA, 92101. SUBSCRIPTION RATES: One year, $18; two years, $28; three years, $40. Subscriptions outside CA are $3 additional per year; outside the US, $80 additional per year. Back issues are $10 per issue and can be purchased at sandiegomagazine. com, if available. For change of address or customer service, write SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE SUBSCRIPTION DEPT., PO Box 460266 Escondido, CA 92046- 9800 or email sandiegomagazine@pcspublink.com. Periodical postage paid at San Diego, CA, and additional mailing offices. San Diego Magazine is a registered trademark of San Diego Magazine LLC. Copyright © 2011 by San Diego Magazine LLC. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited. POSTMASTER: PLEASE SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE, PO Box 460266 Escondido, CA 92046-9800

NOVEMBER 2023 18

1

Trending

This November, explore women-owned companies vending planters made of plants, earrings that look like eggs, and bags that give back Local Stokes

BY JENNIFER IANNI AND AMELIA RODRIGUEZ

3 2

New Heights In 2021, Joanne Johnson was working as a corporate professional in environmental sciences—but her passion was in decorating with plants. She created Fern Heights to offer unique eco-friendly pots to the masses. Every vessel is 3D-printed in SD using a durable plant-derived material. There are currently 17 different styles offered, including realistic dog and cat planters (and you can even get a custom one featuring your own four-legged friend). fernheights.com

Edible Adornments The key to looking like a snack? Wearing one. Run by SDSU grad and artist Ilse Almazan, whimsical local jewelry company Resinuendo vends handmade earrings that resemble olives, eggs, baguettes, berries, tomatoes, and more, crafted from mixed materials like polymer clay, resin, and glass beads. Almazan also creates charming necklaces, hair accessories, and trinket trays. resinuendo.myshopify.com

Crossbody Cargoes Until designers answer the cry for women’s jeans with actual pockets , those of us who refuse to stoop to cargo pants must find creative, comfy ways to haul our necessities. Enter Sash Bag , San Diegan Nichole MacDonald’s crossbody carrier with 10 stacked pockets and built-in wallets to evenly distribute weight. Bonus: The company partners with changemaking charities, giving back to Monarch Schools, local homeless shelters, and other nonprofits. thesashbag.com

20 NOVEMBER 2023

Small Business Power100 Champions like

Bivouac Ciderworks are helping secure our region’s cleaner, greener future. 100% renewable, 100% carbon-free.

Power100 is our most e ff ective tier to help you reduce your carbon footprint. Power100 energy content is 100% renewable, 100% carbon-free and eliminates your greenhouse gas production through electric energy use. Service is available to all customers. San Diego Community Power is proud of our Power100 Champions. Learn how you can opt up your home or business at SDCommunityPower.org Bivouac Ciderworks is a women-powered craft cider company founded in North Park. Learn more at bivouaccider.com @bivouaccider | Bivouac Cider 3986 30th St. San Diego, CA 92104

Covering 75

PARADISE

..OINT L MA ·

1956

I

t’s easy to write our city off as merely an always-sunny hub for laid-back beach bums—thus forgetting that culture, innovation, and progress have always

shot the three-wheeled Messerschmitt KR200 outside its doors. Designed by a German aircraft engineer, the sleek microcar broke 22 international speed records in 1955. It’s a promise of the auto technology to come, plopped in the middle of San Diegans’ favorite haunt for tiny umbrellas. In honor of our 75 th anniversary, we’re recreating iconic covers from our past. The new

been baked into SD’s identity. This cover from 1956 marries all these values. Bali Hai opened in 1952 at the dawn of tiki culture. Four years later, photographer Paul Oxley

22 NOVEMBER 2023

BEHIND THE BRANDS

CELEBRATING WOMEN

!"#$%&'%(!)*)+!

!,-./0

cover stars the same beloved Bali Hai and another futuristic, three-wheeled vehicle, the SD-grown, battery-and-sun-powered Aptera (pg. 74). The original cover featured an uncredited model. This time, we chose two unforgettable locals pushing our city into the future: Shavone Charles, head of global diversity and inclusion communications at TikTok, and chef Claudia

Sandoval of cookbook and Master Chef fame. They (and the other movers and shakers sprinkled throughout this issue) are proof that San Diegans are always headed towards the next big thing—we’re just doing it in better weather than most. –JB

23 SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE

4 CAFE HUE HONEYDEW GELATO Next time you’re on

Food & Drink HOT PLATES Get Some SDM staff shouts out our favorite food finds this month BY MATEO HOKE, JENNIFER IANNI, TROY JOHNSON, MIMI LE, NICOLLE MONICO, WILL RIDDELL, AND AMELIA RODRIGUEZ andwiches. Tacos. S’mores. Good ol’ American breakfasts. When the weather in San Diego takes on its (admittedly minor) winter chill, often all we want is a really delicious, occasionally Michelin-recognized take on the classics. Here are 15 local dishes that hit the spot for us this month. Go get some. S

the Convoy strip, head to this little shop. I don’t typically do dessert, but the

velvety honeydew gelato hits the perfect mark on the sweet scale. Get it on top of a crepe or waffle or add it into a tea float. Flavors switch out often here, but you can find the honeydew every couple weeks or so. –ML

1

LITTLE FRENCHIE CASSOULET

Whether art, punk, or food, the best creations often come from struggle. Cassoulet historically began as “peasant” food, made by people short on money but rich in ingenuity. Chef Matt Sramek’s classic riff is phenomenal: duck confit cured overnight in salt, thyme, and citrus, served over white beans and pork belly cooked in duck stock made from the bones. –TJ

PUESTO FILET MIGNON TACOS Okay, okay. Admittedly, we’ve written about Puesto a few times. But I’m not sure you appreciate 5

6 mignon wrapped in crispy melted cheese, avocado, and pistachio- serrano salsa. One of the city’s best. –TJ the acuteness of just how good this taco is. I wasn’t aware. And it hit me like a joy hammer recently. Marinated filet

3

PÂTISSERIE MÉLANIE VIENNOISERIES As a plain croissant enthusiast, it takes a lot—like, say, my favorite nuts and fruits—to get me to choose a flavored version. So, I found myself rendered powerless when faced with the pistachio croissant from North Park’s Pâtisserie Mélanie. I further gave into desire after realizing there was a Danish- like strawberry diamond, too. –JB

THE ROSE WINE BAR ESPRESS-YA-SELF Espresso martinis are the name of the game these days. At the Rose, you pick your own poison (vodka, mezcal, or bourbon) to mix with coffee liqueur, cold brew, chocolate-mint tea, and aged rum cream. It’s definitely sweet, so skip the dark liquors to make it less so, but when you need a way to wind down without going to sleep, this is it. –NM

LIA’S LUMPIA LUMPIA

One of the most likable mother-son duos have opened a permanent shop in Barrio Logan (their OG food truck was on Food Network’s Great Food Truck Race ). Mom Benelia hand-rolls paper-thin lumpia, and son Cristian applies some of the techniques he learned cooking at Water’s Fine Catering and Searsucker. The result? Gossamer-fine Filipino pastry filled with deliciously seasoned meat (they’ve got vegan rolls, too). –TJ

24 NOVEMBER 2023

11 VIEWPOINT BREWING

13

COTY’S DELI TORTA DE JAMÓN

7

THE BAR AT MONIKER GENERAL WHISKEY SOUR

While the ingredients are deceptively commonplace—ham, lettuce, avocado, tomato, mayo, and onions on fresh, housemade bread—this little hole- in-the-wall shop in Logan Heights has one of the best sandwiches in town. Add jalapeños for a kick, and pair your

Gotta dry shake the egg white for a proper sour, but not every place does (a travesty). Moniker General has fancier choices, but this sour speaks to its cocktail program overall: quality in an unpretentious setting.

CAESAR-ISH SALAD Beachside restaurants get all

Coffee all day, bar opens at three, multiple patios? Yep. The WS is unique yet familiar. Mouthfeel like whiskey-citrus mousse, topped with cinnamon and luxardo syrup—this one is a winner. –MH

the water-view love. But there is another wet look in Del Mar. Viewpoint is as close to the edge of the San Dieguito Lagoon as nature-conservation laws allow. Get a beer and this surprisingly great salad—Italian kale, parsnips, fried chickpeas for crunch, and a tangy dressing good enough to bottle and drink. –TJ

torta with a smoothie (I recommend the mango with orange juice and condensed milk). –ML

14

CAMPFIRE YES, WE HAVE S ’ MORES

8

I love restaurants that invite you to cook your own food. Hot pot, DIY pancake spots… I’m there with my chef’s hat on. So imagine my delight when the s’more at Carlsbad’s Michelin Guide–recommended

JEUNE ET JOLIE CROQUE MADAME It’s a ham sandwich. Just simple lunchbox food filtered through the mind of Michelin- starred chef Eric Bost. He toasts brioche in clarified butter and tops it with bechamel and grated gruyere cheese, iberico de bellota, caviar, chives, and basil flowers. –TJ

Campfire came deconstructed (sea salt–dusted dark chocolate, crisp gingersnaps, marshmallow, all housemade) with a teensy campfire of ultra-hot coals. Roasting the mallow is a given, but don’t forget to warm up the chocolate square on a spoon for extra gooeyness. –AR

HITOKUCHI BLUEFIN TUNA POKE 12

TJ TACOS ADOBADA MULA

Can’t decide between a taco and a quesadilla? Get the best of both with the adobada mula at TJ Tacos in Escondido. Tender shards of chile-marinated pork

The menu at Hitokuchi, a hidden spot in Kearny Mesa, is filled with sexy dishes like uni and caviar and a Chilean sea bass glazed in miso and sake. The star of the show? The bluefin tuna poke. Four delicate squares of puffed, toasted, sweet milk bread are loaded with fish, guacamole creme fraiche, micro cilantro, and pickled red onions bursting against a garlic-ginger ponzu. –JI

are sliced right off the trompo and sandwiched between two warm corn tortillas with queso blanco. While it may not be the prettiest dish in San Diego, flavor always has the final say. –WR

15

ZIZIKIS STREET FOOD TRIO OF DIPS + PITA Somewhere around bite three of this shared plate at the

9

Del Mar Sky Deck, my dining companion declared, “I could eat this every day for the rest of my life.” There’s spicy feta, cooling tzatziki, and the MVP, artichoke hummus. Scooped up with fluffy pita (and mixed with the other dips), it’s like

ROSE DONUTS SUNRISE BREAKFAST SANDWICH In a world of french-toast flights and mimosa towers, sometimes the rarest wonder is something simple, cheap, and pretty good. This strip-mall donut shop’s meal deal includes an egg and cheese on your choice of bread (I like sourdough), a drink (coffee, duh), and a donut for the price of a single specialty latte elsewhere. Go ahead and splurge on bacon. –AR

10

spinach- artichoke dip’s way sexier cousin. –AR

25 SAN DIEGO MAGAZINE

Food & Drink DRINK

Talitha Coffee is providing employment and support to survivors of sex trafficking Brewing Hope

BY LILI KIM

thiopians first discovered the pick-me-up appeal of coffee sometime around 800 AD, E

and now 2.25 billion cups of bean juice are consumed around the globe every day. Hard to improve on the emotional well- being a couple billion people already feel. Enter Talitha Coffee Roasters in East Village. Talitha is the manifestation of founder Jenny Barber’s lifelong mission to make a difference in the lives of those impacted by sex trafficking. Each cup and bean contributes to the cause.

6.3 million people worldwide, according to studies cited by the US State Department. The name Talitha stems from the Aramaic talitha koum, meaning, “Maiden, arise.” This phrase is a reference to the story of a girl moving from death

TOP Talitha offers more than 10 blends and types of single-origin beans, all ethically sourced. INSET Jenny and Robert Barber.

back to life. Jenny feels it symbolizes the experience of many trafficking survivors. “Our ultimate heroes are the survivors. They take that big step and reclaim the power to write their story, so we’re celebrating that,” Jenny says. “The dream is way beyond just working for Talitha.” Since its founding, the company has employed four survivors and is partnering with other recovery organizations to continue to grow this number. Talitha recently launched their e-commerce site, where they sell direct to consumers by the bag or by subscription, as well as wholesale to larger companies.

A survivor of childhood exploitation herself, the mother of six understands firsthand how sparking hope is a crucial stepping stone to bringing survivors out of dark spaces. She and her husband, Robert, first began with advocacy and outreach programs in red-light districts around the country. But after discovering Robert’s innate talent for roasting coffee using only a popcorn popper on their stovetop, the pair decided to sell their beans to fund their efforts. They acquired long-standing local roaster Cafe Virtuoso and rebranded to align with their cause. Then Jenny realized she could go a step further by providing employment opportunities. “So many [survivors] would end up back on the streets because they were facing barriers of reentry, such as education, vocational training, and, sometimes, criminal records,” she says. “It felt like the odds were stacked against them.” So the Barbers set out to offer survivors jobs through the Talitha Survivor Care Network, which provides support and resources to help survivors restabilize their lives. In 2021, forced commercial sexual exploitation affected an estimated

The company is gearing up to go nationwide within the next year.

“Growth is not just about numbers, but realizing that, as we grow, we’re able to bring a greater impact,” Jenny says.

NOVEMBER 2023 26

Food & Drink MAIN DISH

How to Hillcrest

Eat your way through one of SD’s most vibrant neighborhoods

Grilled Atlantic salmon at insideOUT. LEFT Rusticucina’s Copper Fig mule.

BY JENNIFER IANNI

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2 CARBONARA @ RUSTICUCINA —I’m a carbonara snob, scouring the city for the best in “breakfast” pasta. Made with egg yolk, parmesan or pecorino cheese, and guanciale (cured pork cheeks), the tastiest carbonara lets simple ingredients take center stage. And, please, no cream (stop your crimes). Rusticucina’s carbonara is part of their “build-your-own-pasta” menu. I kindly suggest bucatini or pappardelle, but no matter which shape you choose, it’s a heaping mountain of silky pasta coated in the egg and cheese mixture, forming a delicious sauce. The pork bits add savoriness, salt, and texture. Wash it all down with their Copper Fig mule. 3 SUNNY B’ SAUSAGE @ SUNNY BOY BISCUIT CO. — Every neighborhood needs a spot like Sunny Boy. Nestled on a quiet, unassuming corner, it’s no-frills, hearty, Southern fare, perfect to ease those Rich’s-induced hangovers. Their sandwiches are two- handed, runny beasts (no gravy shortage here). I love the Sunny B’ Sausage with cheesy eggs, sausage, and a generous pour of maple syrup tucked between fresh biscuits. Also order one of their housemade pies, cakes, cinnamon swirls, cobblers, or pastries. 4 GRILLED ATLANTIC SALMON @ INSIDEOUT — If one restaurant encompasses all that is Hillcrest, it has to be

ittle Italy and North Park may get all the glory, but Hillcrest is where San Diego’s modern food movement started. In the ’90s and ’00s, the city’s LGBTQ hub was the bleeding edge of restaurant culture. La Jolla and downtown had the big-dollar culinary show ponies, but Hillcrest was all smart bistros, globe-trotting dining nooks, and trend-starters. The fact that it was such an attraction was a blessing and a curse, as skyrocketing rents sent aspiring restaurateurs down the hill (Little Italy) and to the east (North Park). But now the resurgence is on. The neighborhood has a built-in audience with the massive sta ff s of multiple hospitals and schools, plus the constant sea of humans at Balboa Park and big, new residential projects in the works (including the 151-unit, eight-story mixed-use replacing the long-defunct Pernicano’s, and two complexes on the corner of Sixth and Robinson Avenues, where the 76 gas station used to be). Dining behemoth Cohn Restaurant Group started here 40 years ago (Corvette Diner), as did the Busalacchi family, the local popularization of fried chicken and wa ffl es (Johnny Rivera’s Hash House A Go Go), and San Diego’s maple-bacon donut craze (Great Maple, Johnny’s other concept). Urban Mo’s is arguably the city’s liveliest LGBTQ hangout. Crest Cafe is the locals’ legacy diner. Khyber Pass is a go-to for Afghani pulau, and HiroNori’s shoyu ramen is worth every slurp. Here are five more dishes to try in Hillcrest right now. 1 CRISPY CHICKEN SANDWICH @ COMMON STOCK —Chicken sandwiches fall from the sky in San Diego these days, but my favorite is the Crispy Chicken Sandwich from hospitality duo Anderson Clark and Brian Douglass. The chicken breast is fried to perfection and slathered in a cool herbed buttermilk slaw and melted muenster cheese. Topped with bacon and tomato, the sandwich comes with classic Nashville hot or comeback sauce. Get the Brussels sprout Caesar to round things out.

insideOUT. Perched in the Eitol Towers complex, it’s known for over-the-top décor (think Miami florists on psychedelics, plus urinals with street-facing windows), wild holiday-themed pop-ups, an upscale California-Mediterranean-inspired menu, and inventive cocktails. Helmed by executive chef Johnny Duran, the menu o ff ers grilled Atlantic salmon atop lemon basil orzo with confit cherry tomatoes, crumbled feta cheese, spinach, and green garlic purée. 5 THE SOPES BENNY @ COCINA DE BARRIO —The all-day Oaxacan food standout from chef Jose J. Flores melds traditional Mexican dishes (sopes, chilaquiles, crudos, and so on) with modern techniques and artful plating (they’ve also got hefty vegetarian and vegan options). Dinner’s great, but their patio is perfect for starting a weekend morn o ff right. Get the sopes benedict (fried corn cakes, beans, lamb birria, chipotle hollandaise), plus the La Tia Chata—a boozy ri ff on the greatest drink of all time. It features RumChata, vodka, horchata, creamer, and lime and comes garnished with a whole coconut popsicle. Ridiculous in all the good ways.

Listen Up! For more Main Dish, tune in to Happy Half Hour , our food and drink podcast, every week: sdmag.com/hhh .

NOVEMBER 2023 28

Con ! atulations Dr. Amber N. Yoo

San Diego Magazine ’s 2023 Pioneer of the Year nominee

This marks her seventh nomination for a Celebrating Women award. Co-founder of SKY Facial Plastic Surgery, Amber is a local entrepreneur passionate about empowering women. Under her leadership, SKY has become San Diego’s premiere cosmetic surgery practice for the face and neck. Located in North County, SKY draws patients from around the world and is best known for impressive results that look natural. While running the business, Amber completed her doctorate in business and remained an active volunteer for the FACE Foundation and Rady Children’s Hospital Auxiliary. One of her primary motivations? Setting an example for her 5-year-old daughter. “I want to show her that women can accomplish anything they set their mind to.”

Drs. Amber and Sirius K. Yoo , co-founders of SKY

16918 Dove Canyon Road Suite 208, San Diego, CA 92127 858-381-4801 | skyfacialplasticsurgery.com

Food & Drink PEOPLE Making Moves In North Park, a community food program is growing big BY MARA ALTMAN PHOTOS BY COLE NOVAK

ast African mandazi, Somali malawah, North African shakshuka. Behind a chain-link fence on 30 th street in North Park, sandwiched between a church and a lush vegetable garden, lies an unassuming brick patio where every Thursday evening and Saturday morning, a bustling 16-table eatery called MAKE (Merging Agriculture Kitchens and Employment) Café takes shape. It’s here you’ll find some of the most unique and authentic dishes in San Diego. Many of the ingredients they use are plucked right from the garden. E

In the shared commercial kitchen beneath the church, women prep food, peeling the skin from roasted eggplants, sprinkling za’atar, and mixing their signature bizbaz sauce. Native languages that typically swish o ff the tongue—Arabic, Spanish, Somali, Burmese—are put aside in order to try on a new, often stilted, one: English. Some women wear hijabs or colorful headscarves. Others don a simple uniform, a t-shirt emblazoned with the words, “EAT WELL. DO GOOD.”

30 NOVEMBER 2023

Executive director Anchi Mei and deputy director Samantha Forusz smile beside MAKE Projects’ onsite garden. OPPOSITE PAGE Front of house trainer Ruwaida and youth trainee Semira serve brunch.

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Food & Drink PEOPLE

MAKE Café isn’t only a restaurant. It’s a workforce program for refugee and immigrant women who, in many cases, have never been employed. The program lasts three months, during which participants receive minimum wage while learning skills that will help build the confidence and experience to move on to other employment. “We want to give them a first job,” says Anchi Mei, executive director of MAKE Projects. “So they can get a better second job and, ultimately, find a career path.” At the end of the program, employment advisors hold mock interviews, edit resumes, and help participants plot out education plans and career goals. “If someone becomes a housekeeper, we want to help chart the path for them to become a [supervising] housekeeper,” says Samantha Forusz, the deputy director of MAKE Projects. MAKE even prepares participants for the grueling minutiae of onboarding. “We want them to succeed, so just like everyone else, they go through the painful processes of HR the first day,” Mei says. “W4s, I-9s, the Gusto app.” “At the end of the day, this is the community and culture we are cultivating in San Diego and what our menu represents—it is globally inspired, locally sourced .” For immigrant and refugee women, this training is especially important because many are isolated by language barriers and come from agrarian backgrounds where they lacked access to formal education. Often, they are single moms trying to stay afloat after their partners were injured or killed in global conflicts. Nimo Omar Ali is a 36-year-old mother of eight from Somalia who is married to an Uber driver. Her new income makes it possible for her family to pay rent. “It’s [also] how we feed our family and buy school supplies,” she says. After her 12-week stint at MAKE, where she has continued ESL classes, her dream is to land a job at a school cafeteria. “I love cooking,” she adds. While MAKE doesn’t expect participants to stay in food service, they have found that making and serving food is the perfect gateway to enter the work world. “It’s a hard life,” Mei says of being a low-income immigrant. “So to be able to create joy and give joy so easily and contribute so artfully, that’s the beauty of food as a platform for us.” Sokyum Ou, a former participant from Cambodia, concocted the orange syrup served atop the pancakes, a mainstay of the menu. (Ou now works at Seneca in the Intercontinental Hotel downtown.) “So you have traditional buttermilk pancakes

TOP MAKE Projects’ farm stand vends infused oils, vinegars, and cocktail syrups made with herbs from their garden. ABOVE Seedlings fill every inch of the organization’s makeshift greenhouse. OPPOSITE PAGE On a table at MAKE sits a beautiful brunch rich with all the colors befitting a globally inspired, locally sourced menu.

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NOVEMBER 2023

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Food & Drink PEOPLE

combined with a Cambodian-inspired syrup,” Mei says. “At the end of the day, this is the community and culture we are cultivating in San Diego and what our menu represents—it is globally inspired, locally sourced.” When Lydia Adombila had the opportunity to create a weekly special, she pulled from her native Ghana, making a jollof rice to share. “At first, no one was ordering it, and I was like, ‘Oh no!’” she says. “But within a short time, so many people ordered it … Then they said, ‘We want more jollof.’ [I was] dancing, singing, ‘Jollof, jollof!’ I was so happy.” Adombila, a 42-year-old single mother of five, completed the program and now has a part-time caregiving position while getting her GED in the hopes of becoming a nurse. While sharing treasured recipes brings program participants joy, it has also inspired confidence. When Melida McClain moved here from Lima, starting her career from scratch and without friends or family nearby, she wasn’t prepared for what an impact it would make to see her own Peruvian dishes—anticuchos and picarones—on the menu.

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NOVEMBER 2023

“My name was there next to the item,” she recalls. “It felt so special—like you’re important, like you have value.” McClain, 41, is now pursuing a yoga teacher certificate, her dream profession, while she begins her first job after MAKE at Zara in Fashion Valley. MAKE Projects began in 2016 as Project CHOP. Women chopped carrots for school lunches, but when that endeavor lost money, they evolved into making crudité platters and then catering lunches. They dabbled in other ventures, like workshops, a farm stand, and arts and crafts, but it wasn’t until the pandemic hit that they found their sweet spot. “We had to focus on one thing, it had to make money, and we had to be sure we did it well,” Mei explains. What they came up with was serving meals at their patio café, which has now become such a success they are on the verge of a new frontier. “We are going to have our first full-time brick-and-mortar!” Mei announces. So far, they’ve depended mostly on grants, but Mei is hoping the new space will help the social enterprise become self-su ffi cient, with funds coming in from CSA subscriptions, catered events, and restaurant customers. “As we grow, we will be a lot more e ffi cient and start to scale,” she says. “It’s so exciting!” At the new space, due to open in the former Crushed location in North Park this month, they will continue as before, but they’ll be able to expand their restaurant hours and the number of women they serve. They will no longer need to hold conferences and trainings in the stairwell of the church or in the basement while it is briefly clear of AA meetings. The garden will move to SDSU’s Mission Valley expansion where, at one acre, it will quadruple in size. (Hint: Get on their CSA waitlist now.) While the new brick-and-mortar will look just like a typical restaurant, like the patio on 30 th street, it will really be much more. “It is a vehicle for transformation and realizing human potential,” Mei says.

LEFT Soon, the women of MAKE Projects will trade this churchyard patio for a North Park brick-and- mortar of their very own. OPPOSITE PAGE Signage tells customers when the café is open.

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From impressive company soirees to intimate family gatherings, sometimes you need some professional flair to make your special event truly sing. Private dining pushes the envelope with exceptional service, and we have your go-to guide for all things dining outside the home. Leave the dishes in the cupboard and spoil yourself with these hospitality pros who will take the reins of your hyped occasion and take it to the level it deserves. Read on for all the styles and spaces that aim to give you the top-drawer treatment, just in time for the holidays. P R I VAT E D I N I N G ✣ G U I D E

NOVEMBER 2023 36

PRIVATE DINING GUIDE 2023

La Puerta

F E AT U R E S ✣ Open daily for lunch and dinner, and serving weekend brunch ✣ Space for seated- or cocktail-style events ✣ Space for private and semiprivate fiestas

MISSION HILLS 4021 Goldfinch Street San Diego, California 92103

✣ Excellent menu offerings and award- winning margaritas ✣ Centrally located, with close proximity to downtown, Old Town, and Mission Valley lodging

seated meal or a serve-yourself taco and quesadilla bar and tray-passed appetizers. We also offer event coordination and customizable set food and beverage menus to help you plan the perfect event

DINE UNDER OUR BEAUTIFUL PLANT WALLS AND DISCO BALLS at La Puerta in Mission Hills. For larger events, our private event space can hold up to 200 people. Our back room accommodates up to 50 people, making it a great space for birthdays,

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bachelorettes, baby showers, rehearsal dinners, meetings, or just a fun night out. A back room buy out can include either a

✣ SEE THE MENU: LaPuertaSD.com

PRIVATE DINING GUIDE 2023

Piper

105 Mission Avenue Oceanside, California 92054

LOCATED AT THE SEABIRD RESORT IN OCEANSIDE is Piper’s garden-to-table dining room, steps away from the beach. Helmed by Chef Chris

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Carriker, Piper’s menu is a garden-to-table selection boasting seasonal ingredients and fresh takes on classic dishes from morning to night. With a bright and open dining room complete with flexible seating options, Piper offers unique private and -semiprivate dining spaces perfect for birthdays, team meals, reunions, bridal showers, corporate team retreats, or large family gatherings! Private parties can take advantage of Piper’s alfresco outdoor patio experience or indoor banquet table for a unique dining experience with their group, as well.

✣ MENU & RESERVATIONS: PiperOceanside.com | 760-512-3816

F E AT U R E S

✣ Outdoor patio table that can host up to 20 guests ✣ Indoor banquet table that can host up to 12 guests ✣ Full dining room that can host up to 130 guests ✣ Close access to resort amenities, including a spa ✣ Ability to customize culinary and beverage offerings

PRIVATE DINING GUIDE 2023

Rancho Valencia Resort & Spa

5921 Valencia Circle Rancho Santa Fe, California 92067

F E AT U R E S ✣ Forbes 5-Star rated resort and spa providing exceptional service across our 45-acre Spanish Colonial hacienda-inspired enclave ✣ Local and sustainably sourced Coastal Ranch cuisine with customized private dining menus

✣ Multiple private and semi-private spaces for groups of 10 to 500 ✣ Dedicated private dining director to help plan your perfect event ✣ Provides privacy and exclusivity for parties of any size

FAR FROM ORDINARY, SIMPLY PERFECT. Rancho Valencia is a renowned and favored destination in north San Diego County, with a variety of stunning indoor and outdoor dining and event venues—from our sumptuous Terrace Room and Wine Cave to

deserves. Rancho Valencia’s inspiring, romantic, and unique event and dining space opens through windowed doors to spacious outdoor patios and terraces surrounded by verdant foliage. Let Rancho Valencia curate your perfect private event.

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our airy and lush outdoor garden locations, our individually designed private spaces provide the perfect backdrop for parties and events of all sizes. Book your next private party or retreat at Rancho Valencia, and enjoy the exceptional 5-star service and luxury your event

✣ RESERVATIONS: groupevents@ranchovalencia.com 858-759-6259 | RanchoValencia.com

PRIVATE DINING GUIDE 2023

Roy’s Restaurant

333 West Harbor Drive San Diego, California 92101

F E AT U R E S ✣ Open daily for lunch and dinner ✣ Multiple private and semiprivate spaces for groups of 10 to 500 ✣ Dedicated private dining director to help plan your perfect event

✣ Custom menus and cocktails available ✣ State-of-the-art audio-visual equipment

create Roy Yamaguchi’s signature Hawaiian Fusion cuisine. Enjoy one of our signature tropical cocktails or allow us to craft a custom cocktail just for your guests. Complete your dining experience with a selection from our expansive wine list. For an event they’ll rave about, we invite you to experience Roy’s San Diego.

SITUATED ON THE GROUNDS OF THE MARRIOTT MARQUIS, Roy’s San Diego offers sweeping views of the marina and San Diego Bay. From our intimate wine room to

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our breezy outdoor lanai to full restaurant buyouts, we have the perfect space for your next event. Our seasonally inspired menu is an artful fusion of bold Asian flavors and classic French preparations, brought together to

✣ MENU & RESERVATIONS: RoysRestaurant.com | 619-239-7697

PRIVATE DINING GUIDE 2023

STK Steakhouse

600 F Street San Diego, California 92101

F E AT U R E S ✣ Tempest Storm & Candy Bar: Intimate private dining spaces for up to 36 guests ✣ Blaze Starr: Private, open-air atrium for up to 60 guests ✣ Mezzanine: Lively, semiprivate second floor space

✣ Outdoor Patio: Outdoor experience that is perfect for a cocktail reception ✣ Main Dining: Ideal for large parties and seated dinners

STK STEAKHOUSE SAN DIEGO ARTFULLY BLENDS the modern steakhouse and chic lounge into one, offering a dynamic fine

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dining experience with the superior quality of a traditional steakhouse. Located in the Andaz Hotel in San Diego’s Gaslamp Quarter, the restaurant offers brunch, dinner, and happy hour with an unparalleled selection of steak, salads, and other entrees. The social dining experience is enhanced by an in-house DJ on Fridays and Saturdays creating an infectious, high-energy vibe. The menu features reimagined classic American cuisine with signature dishes and innovative cocktails, like the Cucumber Stiletto featuring Grey Goose citron vodka, St-Germain, muddled cucumber, and mint. As anticipated, steak is the main attraction. STK’s one of a kind, curated experience offers a variety of cuts like filet, New York strip, Tomahawk, Wagyu, and cowgirl rib-eye. Outstanding poultry and fish entrées are also available plus signature items including Parmesan truffle fries, Lil’ BRGs, tuna tartare, and sweet corn pudding. ✣ MENU & RESERVATIONS: STKsteakhouse.com/private-events 619-354-5988

PRIVATE DINING GUIDE 2023

Cardellino Italian Chophouse 4033 Goldfinch Street, San Diego, California 92103

CARDELLINO’S WARM AND WELCOMING private dining room boasts one long, communal table that seats up to 16 of your friends and family, alongside a suite of audio and visual equipment. In the kitchen, Chef Brad

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Wise blends cuisines and traditions—a Midwest chophouse with an Italian trattoria—to serve wood-grilled steaks, handmade pastas, and seasonal antipasti and sides meant to please a crowd.

✣ MENU & RESERVATIONS: CardellinoSD.com/private-events | 858-769-3539

F E AT U R E S

✣ Fully private dining room seats up to 16 guests ✣ Customized food and beverage menus ✣ Personalized event planner

Rare Society 330 S Cedros Avenue, Solana Beach, California 92075

INVOKING THE LORE OF RAT PACK GATHERINGS and raucous Sinatra dinner parties, Rare Society’s private dining room holds 24 friends across two tables. Opulent yet approachable, the tucked-

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away space boasts a gold-paneled ceiling, a black marble bar, oversized velvet chairs and state-of-the-art presentation technology. Feast on a custom menu of steakhouse classics grilled over the flame, while a full-service bar and wine cellar keeps the party going well into the night.

✣ MENU & RESERVATIONS: RareSociety.com/private-dining | 858-769-3539

F E AT U R E S

✣ Fully private dining room that seats up to 24 guests ✣ Customized food and beverage menus ✣ Personalized event planner

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