PIROTSKI ĆILIM KAO INSPIRACIJA
PIROT RUGS AS INSPIRATION FOR FASHION
Tekst / Words: Katarina Sretenović, Jelena R. Milenković Fotografije / Photography: Miloš Nadaždin, Design terminal
Pre nekoliko godine modna kuća Ži- vanši predstavila je mušku kolekciju za je- sen/zimu. Manekeni su izlazili iz bekstej- dža u odelima na kojima su dominirali motivi orijentalnog ćilima. Svi su pomno pratili neobično stilizovana muška tela, dok bi verovatno svakom drugom čove- ku iz Srbije ličilo da su se momci ogrnu- li pirotskim ćilimima. Prošlo je neko vre- me i ćilim se opet ušunjao u modni svet. Ovoga puta pirotska verzija podstakla je srpsku modnu dizajnerku Anu Ljubinko- vić da napravi kolekciju za jesen/zimu 2016/17. Dinamična paleta boja, oblici i ri- tam elemenata – sve unikatne osobine pi- rotskog ćilima – probudili su u Ani ideju koju je kasnije pretočila u reviju. – Nisam želela da kolekcija direktno asocira na prepoznatljiv ćilim, već sam koristila elemente koji su meni zanimljivi i dovoljni da oblikujem priču. Sociolozi na modu gledaju kao na oblik grupnog ponašanja, psi- holozi je tumače kao vid lične pre- zentacije, ekonomisti u njoj vide
A few years ago fashion house Gi- venchy presented a men’s collection for autumn/winter. The models emerged from backstage in suits dominated by motifs of oriental rugs. Everyone closely followed the unusually stylish men’s bo- dies, while to perhaps any other man from Serbia it would appear as though these men had been draped in Pirot rugs. Some time has passed and the rug has again crept into the fashion world. This time the Pirot version inspired Serbian fashion de- signer Ana Ljubinković to make a collecti- on for autumn/winter 2016/17. The dyna- mic range of colours, shapes and rhythmic elements - everything that makes Pirot rugs unique-awakened in Ana an idea that she later poured into her show. - I didn’t want the collection to directly evoke the distinctive rug, but rather I used elements that are interesting to me and which are sufficient to shape the story. Sociologists view fashion as a form of group behaviour, psychologists interpret it as a form of personal presentation, eco- nomists see industry in it, while only a se- lect few find real art in fashion. This is the case with Ana. One of the most success- ful Serbian designers, during her studies of fine art she felt that the creation of clothing is in fact an excellent method of creative expression. As soon as she gra- duated from the Faculty of Fine Arts she decided to bring her sketches to life. Thus she became a fashion designer and aban- doned her career as an academic painter. Both of her grandmothers dealt with handicraft. Next to them she already became aware as a child of how exciting it is to observe the creati- on of a sweater from one thread. Apart from Pirot rugs, Ana finds the entire Serbian cul- tural heritage inspirational. In fact, for her artistic work medieval art, folk
industriju, a samo odabra- ni u modi pronalaze pravu umetnost. To je slučaj sa Anom. Jedna od najuspeš- nijih srpskih dizajnerki, tokom studija slikarstva osetila je da je kreiranje odeće u stvari odličan na- čin kreativnog izražava- nja. Čim je diplomirala na Fakultetu likovnih umet- nosti, odlučila je da oži-
vi svoje skice. Tako postaje modni dizaj- ner i odriče se kari- jere akademskog sli- kara. Obe njene bake
Ana Ljubinković, modni dizajner Ana Ljubinković, fashion designer
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