VintageKC VOL. 4 | FASHION 2015
The Fashion Issue MAYOR SLY JAMES THE EVOLUTION OF DENIM
LOCAL DESIGNER HATS 12 MEN’S ACCESSORIES
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STREET WEAR THE EVOLUTION OF DENIM BODY TALK
6 10 14 36 38 40 44
LOCAL DESIGN: T-SHIRTS LOCAL DESIGN: BOW TIES MEN’S ACCESSORIES MEN’S HAIRCUTS LIP COLORS HOW TO: COCKTAIL ATTIRE LOCAL DESIGN: HATS
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from the fashion director
Publisher/Editor Erin Shipps email@example.com Fashion Director/Editorial Assistant Calli Green firstname.lastname@example.org Graphic Designer Emily Bowers email@example.com Staff Contributors Ashley Nelson Studios Ash Haze Beauty Head House Hair Parlour Heidi Abbott Layne Haley Photography Lillie Jacson Lotus Beauty Mitsu Sato Hair Academy Re-Runs Shana Nicole Beauty Smash Glam Tiffany Buckley Vintage Vogue Apparel Westside Storey Wheat Photography VINTAGEKC VOLUME 4, FASHION ISSUE IS PUBLISHED YEARLY IN CONJUNCTION WITH A QUARTERLY MAGAZINE BY VINTAGE MEDIA, 1803 WYANDOTTE, KANSAS CITY, MO 64108. COPYRIGHT 2015, VINTAGE MEDIA. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. RE- PRODUCTION IN PART OR IN WHOLE WITHOUT WRITTEN PERMISSION OF THE PUBLISHER IS STRICTLY PROHIBITED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A.
Fashion Dreams G
rowing up I was always told, “never forget where you came from; it’s what has made you.” Every time I heard that, I couldn’t stand it. It was usually followed by an eye roll and a large sigh. My teenage mind couldn’t wait to get out of my hometown, Higginsville, MO, (which I thought was the smallest town on earth) and live some Carrie Bradshaw dreamy life. I thought wrong, but for all of the right reasons. It wasn’t until around my junior year in college that I started to appreciate all that home had to offer. I grew up an hour outside of Kansas City and I went to college an hour away, too. I spent most of my spare time and weekends in the city, soaking up the sun at Worlds of Fun, finding new restaurants, going out with my friends in the Power and Light District, or enjoying the museums on an early
Saturday morning. I fell in love with the quaintness of Kansas City, and Missouri was always welcoming to me -- the city was home. When I graduated college, I moved to a suburb of Seattle for a year. That’s when everything really sunk in. I realized, once and for all, that I only have a part-time wanderlust soul and Missouri will always be home. I love Kansas City. The responses we received from the first Fashion Issue last year were so kind. I am so grateful to be a part of VintageKC , living out a dream to plan and style fashion- able concepts and looks. This issue is full of inspiration, including brave individuals who, just like you and I, have body image concerns with the confidence to share them; local designers who are amazing at what they do; the Mayor and his bow ties (I’m still on a small celebrity high from getting to hang with Mayor Sly James); more menswear than ever before; fun and funky trends that we know Kansas Citians can rock, and much more. Kansas City does not have the fashion scene of New York or Europe, and I didn’t end up having Carrie Bradshaw’s swanky New York lifestyle (despite my teenage day dreams), but, I am pretty proud of Kansas City. This city continues to advance creatively, athletically and everything in between. We may have a small cityscape and a small fashion scene, but I like to think that because of our close-knit neighborhood atmosphere, we are the ones coming out on top here. I get to wake up everyday to be who I always wanted to be, in the city that I
love. In every idea, photo shoot or project, I get to pay a little more local homage, which is so well deserved.
After all, Missouri is “what made me.” For the love of fashion … and home.
Hat by local designer Lillie Jacson. Photo by Nicole Bissey. On the Cover
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International Model and “Survivor” Winner Danni Boatright
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Fit to be
Tied Local bow tie designer Keefe Cravat creates a special line of custom ties just for Mayor Sly James.
PHOTOGRAPHY Tiffany Cody, Smash Glam MAKEUP Aisha Simon, Smash Glam CONCEPT Calli Green
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Mayor Sly James and bow tie designer Jordan Williams sporting Keefe Cravat bow ties (top) and (left) the Mayor opens his box of specially designed ties (above).
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about the designer...
VKC: Why bow ties? Jordan: When I was in college in Chicago, I tried to distinguish myself so I could get attention from people that I wanted to work with. I tried everything and nothing worked. I then started designing bow ties and wearing them around campus and people began to no- tice me. I would always get stopped and asked about my bow ties. In hindsight, the bow ties served as great conversation starters, which is why I choose bow ties as my first neckwear product. When I moved back to Kansas City, I really started to take my neckwear company seriously. My bow ties got me noticed in col- lege, so I knew I could help others get noticed as well. Keefe Cravat values making a differ- ence. We hope to help men gain the opportu- nity to become whatever they want. VKC: When did you start designing bow ties? Jordan: I started designing bow ties in 2013. I never had a background in designing or
insight on the Mayor’s fabric choices, colors and hobbies. I made sure the quality was Keefe Cra- vat worthy, but the interns took it from there. VKC: What makes your ties different than other bow tie designs? Jordan: I get that question a lot and I never know how to answer it. I hate to sound biased. I encourage customers to compare Keefe Cravat to other bow ties and make their own decision. VKC: What does Keefe Cravat mean? Jordan: Keefe Cravat is French for noble neckwear. Keefe means noble, gentle, lovable and handsome. Cravat means neckwear. Also the acronyms, K and C, is a reflection of Kansas City, the home base of the neckwear company.
sewing; I literally started with a needle, thread and neck ties. I found the needle and thread in one of my mom’s old sewing kits, and I bought a box of neck ties from the thrift shop for $10 to use as fabric. The rest is history. VKC: Who was involved with designing ties for Mayor Sly James? Jordan: This past year I introduced a summer internship that targets students who have the potential to become fashion designers. I selected five students. JordanWynne and James St. Lau- rent of JCCC; and Jada Warren, Jazell Randolph and KamyrnMiller of Ruskin High School. I decided to give them the opportunity to design the collection of bow ties for the mayor. Before I presented the opportunity to the group, I reached out to the Mayor’s daughter, Aja. She gave me
"We hope to help men gain the opportunity to become whatever they want"
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PHOTOGRAPHY Wheat Photography HAIR Kaitlyn Amelia, Ashley Nelson Studios MAKEUP Ashley Nelson, Tatiana Wallace, Ashley Nelson Studios MODELS Kyle Kleiboeker, Mayme Marshall FASHION Bumpleft Found at: Westside Storey and Made In KC :: bumpleft.com
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FASHION Ocean & Sea Found at: Westside Storey, Made In KC, Bunker and many more :: oceanandsea.com
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FOUN D E D
A FIRST FRIDAY VINTAGE SHOPPING EVENT
1285 Hickory St West Bottoms • Kansas City, MO Shop First Friday & Saturday 9-6 Sunday 11-4ish TopHatMercantile.com
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Every MaN Accessories Needs
Varsity Trends Vintage letterman jacket, University of Kansas Men’s Track and Field Big 8 Championship, 1964.
Team Spirit Head Gear Royals ‘85 Baseball hat, manufactured/sold in 1985 following the 1985 Royals World Series win.
Little Local Details KC socks by: Sock 101.
PHOTOGRAPHY Wheat Photography FASHION Westside Storey CONCEPT Jenny Wheat STYLING Jenny Wheat and Calli Green MODELS Colten Slagg, Jimmy Sheltie, Manifest Talent
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Tribal Flare Vintage Pendleton Jacket.
A Gentlemen’s Finishing Touch Plaid Fedora, 1970.
Color of the Year Pennant sweatshirt by Bellboy KC
Bold Patterns In Kansas City, these socks can only be found at Westside Storey.
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Classic Stripes Striped socks by Sock 101
Leather Goods Handcrafted key fob by Sandlot.
Sturdy Storage Handcrafted wallet/ card holder by Sandlot. 10
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Denim Duds Vintage/original Lee jean jacket- Kansas City Headquarters, early 1900s.
Directional Style Arrow socks by Sock 101.
Models’ shirts not mentioned made by: Charlie Hustle (heart KC shirt) Bellboy (Bellboy KC pennant crew neck) Easy, Tiger (stay fancy shirt) Loyalty KC (loyalty n°5 pinetar shirt)
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From the early 1950s through present day fashion, denim gradually became a fabric in every woman’s closet. Whatever the cut, the fit or the style, we’re all about the evolution of this trend. Own it ladies! 50 s Stars like Mary Tyler Moore and Marilyn Monroe sported pants and blue jeans on and off screen, allowing women wearing pants to became less taboo in the 1950s. The Evolution denim of
PHOTOGRAPHY Tiffany Cody; Smash Glam FASHION Vintage Vogue Apparel and Re-Runs MODELS Dieynaba Diop, Winny Duku, McCartney Payton, Steele Schimming, Voices&; Sarah Grandegenett, and Genevieve D’Silva Lyman CONCEPT & STYLING Calli Green
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60 s Contrary to popular belief, pastel and colored skinny jeans are not a new trend, not even when they hit the fashion scene in the 1980s. Wrangler came out with the popular style in the 1960s, and they’ve made reappearances in fashion ever since.
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70 s Since the 17th century, bell-bottoms were
functional attire worn by sailors. It wasn’t until the 1970s that the trend peaked in popularity for day- to-day wear—the bigger the bell, the better.
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80 s Denim started to explode in the 1980s. It was common to find dresses, bags, jackets and many other pieces made from denim. Light washes and acid wash became a huge trend.
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90 s With the rise of grunge music came grunge fashion. The 1990s craze was meant to look thrown together, which made distressed and torn denim all the rage.
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TODAY Because fashion always repeats itself, we see many of the former decades peaking through today. The skinny denim fad is more form-fitting today, but was definitely introduced in the late 1950s/early 1960s. Many pairs now are lighter/acid washes, and are distressed. Colored denim has also come back in full force. No matter what denim trends are behind or ahead of us, we know one thing: It’s here to stay.
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RRED LINES Throughout history, women’s fashion designers have integrated menswear into the closets of fashionistas everywhere, and we’ve got to say—it’s working! We love seeing the structure and crisp cuts of menswear altered into an edgy look for the ladies. BLU
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A nod to female pop culture, the bow tie has worked its way onto runways and red carpets—and not just around the necks of men. The bow tie is a great accessory to show character and a pop of color to a pant suit, tuxedo shirt or a tuxedo jacket. THE BOW TIE
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THE TUXEDO SHIRT
The tuxedo shirt was designed with a specific collar for ties and has a distinct look. But, with the evolution of fashion, and trendsetters like Janelle Monáe in the celebrity spotlight, the men’s tuxedo shirt has crossed gender lines and become a clean look for women too, with or without a tie.
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THE VARSITY CARDIGAN
The varsity-style cardigan was a staple item in every jock’s closet in the 1950s. Shortly after, women’s athletic wear caught on and it was mostly seen on cheerleaders in the form of a sweater. Until recently, the trend was mostly sports related. The varsity cardigan made its way back into the spotlight as actual menswear, and now has been spotted in department stores and closets as a trend in women’s fashion.
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Because of World War I, women had to take on their husband’s jobs, and their trousers to go with it. The increase in women wearing pants for work meant wearing trousers became a trend, too. Since then, we have seen waves of trouser trends throughout the women’s fashion scene in every color and style imaginable.
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Although women were wearing feminine skirt suits with blazers in the 1920s, it wasn’t until the 1980s that women took on “power dressing.” With films like “The Working Girl” (1988), the world saw women in roles that men would usually claim, wearing pant suits to take on the workplace. The sport coat was born as a more casual blazer—usually made from corduroy, suede, denim, leather or tweed—and was designed to wear without matching pants, unlike the former pant suit with a blazer. Because ladies were rocking pant suits with blazers, the sports coat trickled down as a social norm. Now women wear a sport coat outside over their fall wardrobe, or with just about any pant/legging to add texture to a look.
THE SPORT COAT
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PHOTOGRAPHY Tiffany Cody, Smash Glam HAIR Ash Haze Beauty; Hope Harbert, Mitsu Sato Hair Academy MAKEUP Aisha Simon, Shelice Sheppard, Smash Glam FASHION Vintage Vogue Apparel MODELS Scarlette O’Shea, Eileen Orloff, Voices&; Sanay Alexander, Jozzi Rainey, and Arrica Wright CONCEPT & STYLING Calli Green LOCATION Kill Devil Club
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Body Ta lk Nobody’s perfect. Truer words have never been spoken. It’s the line we hear most when being criti- cal of hanging out in our own skin. Yet, as much as we are told those words, insecurities are a reality for everyone. We know it’s comforting to see someone with relatable struggles actually talking them. The next few pages are filled with powerful words from incredible people, and it is our honor to be part of such a brave movement. We hear you, the one who may be overweight but trying; the one that says, “if I were only a little taller;” the mom that can’t stand trying on swimsuits anymore—we hear you. And we’re just like you. Nobody’s perfect.
PHOTOGRAPHY Nicole Bissey Photography MAKEUP Ashley Nelson Studios HAIR Lotus Beauty
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“At times, it’s hard to accept my height. Most of the people I encounter, both men and women, are taller than myself. I used to feel that by being short people wouldn’t notice me.”
“In middle school, I remember that my peers kept growing taller and bigger than me. I felt stagnant in my vertical growth and I remember that was the first time that I felt something was ‘wrong’ with me.”
“My body is short in stature, but mighty in width. It is great at building strength and muscle, but sometimes doesn’t allow me to reach the cereal on top of the refrigerator. It’s a body that’s durable and I’m going to make the best of every inch of it.”
“No one is perfect. Everybody struggles with something that they have to learn to accept. I use the philosophy that if you accept who you are, your insecurities will become quiet.”
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“Since starting my journey to become healthier, I am really starting to feel better. I’ve lost 52 pounds in 7 months and I look forward to reaching my goals.”
“When shopping, I tend to go toward more dark colored tops v-neck tops for my body type. They make me feel the best. But, no matter what I’m wearing, confidence is the most important thing I can wear. That’s something I tell myself all the time.”
“I tend to gain weight in my belly and upper body. I’m still not a huge fan of my upper arms, although I’ve been working on those and, slowly but surely, I am starting to see them become what I want. Like anyone, I have days where I like a part of my body more than the other and I continually remind myself to be secure with what I have and work on the things I can improve.”
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“I see my stretch marks as marks of a warrior. I would never change
“The best advice that I could give is that beauty is truly on the inside. Love yourself—care for yourself in order for you to really love you and others unconditionally. Wear what you want to wear as long as you feel good. Please yourself first.”
anything about my body. I look
this way because of my children, I will always view my stretch marks from a mother’s perspective.”
“When I reached puberty I remember the girls in school talking about the stretch marks on their bodies, I had seen them on my mother, and did not want them either. Now, I feel much different about them than I did when I was younger.”
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THE PERFECT LIP
PHOTOGRAPHY Heidi Abbott and Tiffany Buckley MODELS Winny Duku, Voices&; Kathryn Bornus, Hina Khan, Megan Price, and Madison Robinson MAKEUP Ashley Nelson and Tatiana Wallace, Ashley Nelson Studios
Dark cool skin tones shine in cool berry tones like the one on Winny (above), saturated enough to pull through on rich complexions. Megan (right) and brunettes like her look great in medium pinks, varying the intensity to match your particular shade of brunette goddess. A good guide is to try something two shades darker than your natural lip color for every day, and as vibrant as a rich berry for evening and special occasions. Muted reds look great every day on skin tones with this much warmth. Purple is the contrasting color to the golden tones found in Madison ’s (far right) skin, making her complexion look amazing!
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Reds and burgundys
instantly brighten gorgeous warm- medium skin tones like Hina ’s (far left). Light pinks and neutrals enhance lighter skin tones without overpowering fairer-skinned beauties such as Kathryn (left).
Ash Haze Beauty
Walk-ins welcome! Tuesday•Thursday•Friday•Saturday 12pm-7pm •Wednesday• 9am-5pm
Ask for Ashley at Squares 5040 NE Parvin RD KCMO firstname.lastname@example.org • 602-796-9571
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Creating gentlemen’s hair styles today, a modern twist on the classic cut, is en vogue. In general, a square shape is desired. With each cut, the artists at Head House Hair Parlour took into consideration not only face shape, but head shape as well.
For Bek (above): We went with a high and tight clipper fade on the sides. For the top, we left it long and disconnected. We then cut the top into a wedge leaving plenty of length in front to push back and style. This cut leaves weight on top and clean tight sides to create a square shape. For Justin (left): We took the sides short to a mid-clipper fade, leaving a mild weight line. We left the top long and then connected to the sides. To add an edge, we shaved in a hard part.
The hard part and mid-weight line accent his jaw line to create the desired shape.
PHOTOGRAPHY Tiffany Sykes HA I R Head House Hair Parlour MODELS Bek Abbullayev, Justin Sease, Zach Stevenson, and Rob Valivia
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For Zach (left): We chose a tapered scissor cut, leaving length on the sides to slick back. In addition, we left plenty of length in front to utilize his natural growth pattern and on top to connect the back. This adds some bulk to the sides and weight on top to make a square shape. For Rob (bottom left): We did a crew cut, taking the sides short and leaving just a bit of length in front and on top. This gives him a short clean look without compromising the desired shape.
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So you received an invitation to a cocktail party —now begins the dreaded “What am I going to wear?” moment. Try these pointers to be sure that you’re turning heads instead of raising eyebrows.
PHOTOGRAPHY Layne Ha l ey Pho t og raphy STYL I NG Ca l l i Gr een DRESSES Vintage Vogue Apparel MAKEUP Ash l ey Ne l son St ud i os HA I R Shana Ni co l e Beau t y ; Ka i t l yn Ame l i a, Ash l ey Ne l son Stud i os MODELS Lacey Lee , Logan N i cho l s , Ambe r Ross , Vo i ces& ; Don Lampe r t , Man i f es t Ta l en t
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Bow ties are a must and a bright bow tie can help you stand out in a sea of black cocktail tuxedos.
SHADES OF GREY Cocktail parties always call for a tux, but, if your invite is less formal, a neutral- colored tuxedo, like grey, is a perfect choice for the event.
SAFE BET When attending a formal cocktail party, a black tuxedo is always the safest bet.
KICKS A formal shoe is always a must for cocktail attire. Avoid bright colors; black is best.
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STAPLE ITEM Every woman should own a string of pearls. They are a timeless piece and can be worn with just about everything.
PRINTS If you’re invited to a less formal party, a little black dress with a subtle print works wonders.
LITTLE BLACK DRESS When in doubt, old faithful always comes in handy. Just be sure it is cocktail appropriate, rather than nightclub attire.
Vintage pumps are a fun way to add flair to a cocktail dress, giving a soft splash of color to an otherwise traditional look.
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GLITZ If it shines and sparkles, and is tailored to fit your body, it’s more than likely a cocktail dress.
BEAD WORK Vintage dresses have some of the best beading that money can buy. A beautiful beaded dress is an investment that will last.
PLAIN JANE You can’t go wrong with a basic black pump, especially if your dress is a little louder.
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PHOTOGRAPHY N i co l e B i ssey Pho t og raphy Ash l ey Ne l son and Ka t Co l l e t t , Ash l ey Ne l son St ud i os Jess i ca Epps , Came r on Newb i l l , V i nc i e Spe r o , Vo i ces& ; and Dana Lar son CONCEPT Ca l l i Gr een L i l l i e Jacson MODELS
WIGS & HAT DES IGNS
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hats + wigs
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About the Designer
VKC: Why Hats? Lillie: I first knew I
wanted to try making hats after seeing a hat a classmate had made. I enrolled in an accessory design class the follow-
ing semester. We had an emergency substitute teacher the first day of class, so she didn’t really have a lesson plan for us. She allowed us free reign to make essentially whatever we wanted. My first hat was blocked on a homemade block that I cobbled together using a bowl, plasticine, protofoam and a lot of tape. I loved the entire process and my teacher was impressed, so I was hooked. I took every headwear class offered at my school after that and won a grant from the school to continue working on hats after gradu- ation. I think at the core I love headwear because it allows me to blend my passion of sculpture with my love of fashion. VKC: What inspires you? Lillie: I am inspired by many things—other cultures, literature, even the movement of dancers—but nature is the underlying theme in all my work. During my senior year of col- lege, every hat I made was based off of images captured by the Hubble Space Telescope. More recently, I made a line of hats based on water and fire deities from cultures around the world. But, in every piece I make I try capture a little of God’s creation—whether it be the organic chaos of stars or the translucence of flames. VKC: What materials do you like to use? Lillie: I work with a variety of materials and I like to try new materials as I discover them. I’ve used resin with limited success to embellish my hats and more recently I’ve been experimenting with a new material called WireKnitz, which is a very fine metallic wire that has been knit into a tube. Along with the newer materials, I work with more traditional materials like fur and wool felt, sisal and paper braids, fabric and leather. My favorite materials are the ones I purchase as “destash” from other artists and parts that I salvage from vintage headwear. I have a collection of vintage braids and veiling, as well as a precious reclaimed beaver fur felt. While the quality of headwear supplies is still very high, finding the old “Union made in the USA” hats and giving them new life by changing out a veil or salvaging the felt and making it into something new, is very gratifying.
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