“CAMP: NOTES ON FASHION” Wintour continues the tradition launched by Met Gala founder and fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert. One strong woman was succeeded by another strong woman. She will take strides for- ward this month at the Met Gala with the new theme “Camp: Notes on Fashion”, inspired by the essay of the same name writ- ten by Susan Sontag.
isers this time around were Lady Gaga, Alessandro Michele, Harry Styles and Serena Williams. The criteria for selecting her assistants are clear. Wintour simply knows who’s in trend, and she also knows what she wants. She always knew that. She showed her determination as a teenager, when she refused to wear a school uni- form, and especially when she announced to her parents that she was leaving the North London Collegiate school. After training at Har- rods, she began attending fashion classes, but also quit that.“You ei- ther know what fashion is or you don’t,”she explained. Contrary to Anna’s inconsistency in formal education, she stuck to her solid life goals and forged a consistent image. There is no bet- ter illustration of her consistency than the fact that she’s worn the same cult bob hairstyle since she was 14 years old. She devised her teenager image while listing through the pages of teen magazines. Even back then she knew what was for her and what, as time has shown, would become a stamp of enduring style. There are indica- tions that the story of the bulky glasses that she rarely appears with- out in public are not so fashionably authentic, but rather motivat- ed by health reasons. Anna allegedly has problems with her sight. There is strong evidence that her career, rst as a fashion jour- nalist and then as an editor, was initiated by her father, Charles Win- tour, the former chief editor of London’s Evening Standard newspa- per, who – when seeking an answer to the question of what interests young readers – often sought help from his wise and talented daugh- ter. The heir of a British man and an American lady, a descendent of duchesses and baronesses, she advanced step by step from being her father’s assistant to reaching the pinnacle of world fashion – the holy grail that is Vogue. The ambitious Anna had to test her own patience, and she couldn’t have imagined – let alone expected – a better antechamber to fash- ion paradise than the British version of Vogue. The sta , however, could come up with millions of editors better than her, dubbing her “Nuclear Wintour”, and referring to the period of her editorship, from 1985 to 1987, as “the Wintour of our discontent”. She changed Brit- ish Vogue to the same extent that she changed the face of the Met Gala. What did she do? She brought it closer to the American ver- sion, telling confused and angry journalists that a new woman has emerged – one who is interested in work and money and has no time for shopping. The modern woman wants to know what, why, where and how. Resemble anyone you know? It was then time for her to sit on the throne of the American fashion bible and shake it to its roots. She changed the cover page, turning its focus completely to- wards fashion from a magazine that had until then resembled a life- style periodical, combining expensive costume pieces with a orda- ble designs, changing its aesthetics – doing so, critics argue, to the bene t of the elitist approach, strengthening the signi cance of fa- mous personalities who, according to her, must be represented in Vogue. This last move brings clarity to her 2014 decision to illustrate the cover page with an image of Kim Kardashian West with her hus- band Kanye West and daughter North West. What the future will bring remains for us to see, while Ana – as a faultless planner – certainly already knows the most important details. What is also certain to happen in the future is the following: She will always be the rst to arrive at the Met Gala, rising at six in the morn- ing, training and heading to work; she will spend 20 minutes at each event and head to bed at 10.15pm. She will continue ghting against aids and for the CFDA, the Vogue fund that helps young designers. That’s how Anna is. This rebel has become the perfect organ- iser of her own life. But she’s also one of the most in uential wom- en in the world, according to Forbes’ assessment, an Honourable Dame of Great Britain and a recipient of the highest fashion awards of her own country, who has retained her rebellious spirit and shows it where it’s most needed – in fashion, in order to make it better and more meaningful. Just as she wanted to do all those years ago...
ju zanimaju posao i novac i koja nema vremena za kupovinu. Mo- derna žena želi da zna šta, zašto, gde i kako. Liči vam na nekog? Posle toga bilo je vreme da sed- ne na tron američke modne Bibli- je i uzdrma je iz korena. Izmenila je naslovne strane, okrenula ga u potpunosti ka mo- di od časopisa koji je do tada bio nalik lajfstajl novinama, kombi- novala skupe odevne komade sa pristupačnim modelima, menja- la njegovu estetiku, kako kritičari tvrde, u korist elitističkog pristu- pa, pojačala značaj poznatih lič- nosti, koje, prema njenim rečima, moraju da budu zastupljene u Vo- gu . Ovo poslednje čini jasnijom njenu odluku da 2014. na naslov- nicu stavi sliku Kim Kardašijan Vest sa suprugom Kanjeom Ve- stom i ćerkom Nort Vest. Šta će doneti budućnost, vi- dećemo, a Ana kao besprekorni
Ana Vintur sa Karlom Lagerfeldom Anna Wintour with Karl Lagerfeld
planer sigurno već zna najvažnije detalje. Ono što je si- gurno da će se dešavati i ubuduće je sledeće: na Met ga- lu će uvek doći prva, ustajaće u šest sati ujutru, trenira- će, pa krenuti na posao, na svakom događaju ostajaće 20 minuta, a na spavanje će odlaziti u 22.15 h. Nastaviće da se bori protiv side i za CFDA, fond Voga koji poma- že mladim dizajnerima. Takva je Ana. Buntovnica je postala savršeni organiza- tor svog života. Ali je jedna od najticajnijih žena na svetu, prema procenama Forbsa , počasna ledi Velike Britanije i dobitnica najvišeg modnog priznanja svoje zemlje, saču- vala buntovnički duh i pokazuje ga tamo gde je najpotreb- nije – u modi, kako bi je učinila boljom i smislenijom. Baš kao što je želela pre mnogo, mnogo godina…
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