MODA / FASHION
FRENCH CHARM, ITALIAN EXTRAVAGANCE The geometrical perfection of Pierre Cardin This celebrated French designer passed away at the age of 98, leaving us a legacy of designs inspired by geometrical shapes, futurism, a hint of Japan and most of all his passion for space travel I t seems that Pierre Cardin en- tered the world of high fashion in the 1950s just to shake it up. Different, fearless, avant-garde, with a view to the future, he created designs for times yet to come, while at the same time he was accept- ed in the period during which he created. Obsessed with circles, triangles and squares, he created pieces that paid no at- tention to silhouettes. Today we call such piec- es bulky, oversized or sculptural, while he simply called them geometric. It was precisely this under-
Osim nesputane mašte, imao je talenta i za bi- znis. Kad je postavio kuću visoke mode na noge, vr- lo brzo se okrenuo unosnijem izvoru prihoda, pro- movisao je dizajnersku konfekciju, odnosno modele dostupnije širem krugu ljudi. Ne zaboravite da je pe- desetih godina to bilo novo i hrabro, mogli bismo re- ći revolucionarno. Njegov brend našao se na skoro svakoj stvari koja je donosila novac, od nameštaja, aksesoara, cigareta, hrane. Osvojio je svet, kako je jednom sam izjavio. Inovator, neustrašivi kreator, avangardan, prvi je prikazao modnu kolekciju na Crvenom trgu u Moskvi 1991, osvojio tržište Kine i Japana. Među prvima je koji su 1994. svoju kolekciju predstavili samo uskom krugu klijenata i novinara. I letimičan pregled njegovog stvara-
laštva podseća nas da je u modi sve već viđeno i da je budućnost u novim materi- jalima, 3D štam- pačima i dekon- strukciji. A nama ostaje Pjer Karden kao izvor neiscrpne inspiracije…
mining of the female silhouette that made him the creator of the unisex style that has become fully accepted today. However, his approach didn‘t play with the mixing of gender roles, rather it was based on designs that simply didn‘t acknowledge the sil- houette. Unlike Jean-Paul Gaultier, you won‘t see a man in a skirt with his designs. He mastered the skill of tailor- ing women‘s suits during childhood, so he continued his career in fashion despite having started his studies in architecture. He began his career in the studio of renowned designer El- sa Schiaparelli, via the Dior fash- ion house, where he quickly ad- vanced from the position of chief tailor to designer, only to gain his own fashion house after creating 30 costumes for the Venice Carnival. And the rest is history. His first
Model u futurističkom duhu koji je obeležio Kardenovu karijeru A design with the futuristic spirit that marked Cardin’s career
58 | Pjer Karden » Pierre Cardin
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