Modeli koji prkose trendovskim promenama poput onih koje kreira Đorđo Armani u skladu su sa konceptom održive mode Designs that defy changes in trends, like those created by Giorgio Armani, are in line with the concept of sustainable fashion
Rita Morena udahnula je novi život haljini koju je nosila 1962. ponevši je ponovo na svečanoj dodeli Oskara Rita Moreno breathed new life into the dress she first wore in 1962, wearing it again to attend the Academy Awards
M anje je više, pravilo je koje se provlači kroz modu još od vremena čuvene Koko Šanel. Koko je mislila na broj komada koji ćete sta- viti na sebe, a danas je to moto novog mod- nog koncepta – spore mode (slow fashion). To je svestan izbor kupovine manjeg broja komada, ali kvalitetnijih, ori- ginalnih i vanvremenskih. Ključna reč ovog koncepta su materijali – organski, re- ciklabilni ili oni od održivih sirovina. Poželjne reči ove no- ve modne filozofije su vintidž, sekend hend i reciklaža. Ali da ne bude zabune, ova nova modna filozofija ozbiljno se naslanja na sve poznate postulate koji promovišu lični stil, a ne pomodarstvo. Takva odeća je izdržljivija, napravljena sa idejom da traje, da može da se popravi ako se ošteti, da se ne baca posla nekoliko nošenja. Moda je dugo bila privilegija bogatih. Savršeno pro- mišljeni krojevi, luksuzni prirodni materijali i originalne kreatorske ideje su se podrazumevali. Ostali su se oblačili. A onda smo pod uticajem marketinških kampanja svi po- čeli da pratimo modu. Poliesterski modeli zasijali su svi- lenim sjajem. Ali samo na fotografijama postavljenim na društvenim mrežama. Na ulici su to samo tužne kopije od loših materijala predviđene da se nose do sledećeg mese- ca, kad će nas sa bilborda obavestiti da su potpuno aut i po- nuditi novi instant stil. I tako je nastao fast fešn. Iako smo modu uvek definisali kao inovativnu, naprednu i brzu, u jednom trenutku dobila je ubrzanje koje su jedva pratili i kreatori i kupci. Trendovi su izašli iz sezonskih okvira, ko-
L ess is more, that’s the rule that’s run through fashion since the time of the famous Coco Chanel. Coco was referring to the number of items to be worn, while today that is the motto of the new fashion concept – Slow fashion. It is the conscious choice to buy fewer times, but of better quality, original and timeless. The key word for this concept is materials - organic, recyclable or from sustainable raw materials. The desirable words of this new fashion philosophy are vintage, second hand and recycling. Howev- er, to avoid confusion, this new fashion philosophy relies heavily on all known postulates that promote personal style and not being a slave to fashion. Such clothing is more durable, made with the idea of last- ing, of being able to be repaired if damaged, not to be thrown away after being warn a few times. Fashion was long a privilege of the rich. Perfectly considered cuts, luxurious natural materials and original creative ideas were always im- plied. Others merely dressed. And then, under the influence of mar- keting campaigns, we all started following fashion. Polyester designs shone with a silky glow… but only on photos posted on social net- works. On the street they are only sad copies made of poor materials intended to be worn until the next month, when we will be informed via billboards that they are completely‘out’and offered a new instant style. And that’s how Fast Fashion emerged. Even though we have al- ways defined fashion as innovative, advanced and fast, at one point it accelerated so much that both creators and consumers could barely keep pace. Trends moved beyond seasonal frames, collections began being released every month, mass production struggled to survive with low prices, poor quality and a lack of originality. Low prices “justified” poorly paid workers, excessive water consumption and environmental
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