NEW WEBSITE/NEW RESORTS | RV REVIEW: COACHMAN BROOKSTONE BKF375FL | CASH FOR ADVICE
TO
CoastResorts.com
SUMMER 2015
TO By Highway and Byway SCENIC SOUTHEASTERN UTAH’S RED ROCKS
TO Just Add Water NATIONAL SEASHORES - 10 REFRESHING DESTINATIONS
SUMMER DESTINATIONS St. Croix River Resort Hinckley, Minnesota El Golfo Beach Resort El Golfo, Sonora, Mexico Smoky Mountain Premier RV Resort Cosby, Tennessee
Let us make your next RV adventure the best one yet. Visit any of our 100+ nationwide SuperCenters or online at CampingWorld.com to find quality products and accessories to help you embrace new adventures, experience new thrills and make memories to last a lifetime. From products, RV sales and service to collision repair and remodeling, Camping World is your one-stop destination for everything you need for your RV. Welcome to a Whole New World!
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CONTENTS TRAVEL
10 A Utah Road Trip By highway and byway,
GOOD SAM AND CAMPING WORLD CHAIRMAN AND CEO MARCUS LEMONIS marcusvip@GoodSamFamily.com COAST TO COAST PRESIDENT BRUCE HOSTER bhoster@GoodSamFamily.com MEMBER SERVICES 64 Inverness Drive E. Englewood, Colorado 80112 800-368-5721 writetous@Coast-Coast.com
travel amid red rocks in southeastern Utah. PHOTOS AND STORY
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BY EMILY FAGAN 15 Shore Leave North, South, East or West, our 10 National Seashores offer year-round fun. BY DAVE G. HOUSER
COAST TO COAST WEBSITE CoastResorts.com
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR DEE WHITED ART DIRECTOR NICK NYFFELER
Volume 34, Number 3. Coast to Coast (ISSN 1093-3581) is published quarterly for $14 per year as part of annual membership fees, by Coast to Coast Resorts, 64 Inverness Drive E., Englewood, Colorado 80112. Periodical postage paid at Englewood, Colorado, and additional mailing offices. Registration Number 558028. Publications Mail Agreement Number 40012332. Return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 875, Station A, Windsor, Ontario N92 6P2. U.S. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to Coast to Coast Resorts, P.O. Box 7028, Englewood, CO 80155-7028. Coast to Coast Resorts assumes no responsibility for unsolic- ited manuscripts or artwork. The contents of this publication may not be reproduced by any method without prior written consent of the publisher. Copyright © 2015 by Coast to Coast Resorts. PRINTED IN THE USA. cover photo : Utah’s red rocks, Emily Fagan
DEPARTMENTS 4 From the President 5 Member Matters 6 Resort Updates 7 You’re the Experts 20 RV Review
RESORTS 8 St. Croix River Resort HINCKLEY, MINNESOTA 9 El Golfo Beach Resort EL GOLFO, SONORA ,MEXICO 22 Smoky Mountain Premier RV Resort COSBY, TENNESSEE
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SUMMER 2015 COAST TO COAST
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Coast Announces A New Website and Two New Resorts!
FROM THE PRESIDENT
For more information see the resort profile on page 8 of this issue. The s econd new resort affiliate we’ve added is El Golfo Beach Resort in El Golfo, So- nora, Mexico. This is a Coast Classic resort that is a member of the Colorado River Adven- tures family of resorts. Located about an hour south of Yuma, Ari- zona, El Golfo features
PUTTING MEMBERS FIRST
oceanfront RV campsites on the Sea of Cortez. At El Golfo you can relax by the poolside cabana and cantina or enjoy activities such as boating, fishing, snorkeling, sea kayaking, hiking, and swimming. For those who enjoy ATVing, there are miles of off-road trails and sand dunes to explore; bring your own ATV or rent one on- site. For more information see the resort profile on page 9 of this issue. In other news, Coast member Fredrick Martin won a $100 Camping World gift certificate in our recent Trip Plus contest! Fredrick was one of hundreds of Coast members who entered our contest by downloading a discount coupon or the My Deals mobile app in March or April. You can enjoy big savings every day on din- ing, shopping, recreation, and entertainment by using our Trip Plus benefit. Just go to our website at www. CoastResorts.com, sign in, click on Member Benefits, and scroll down to the Trip Plus benefit, and click on the link. You can choose savings from more than 120,000 discount locations, and either print and redeem coupons or download the My Deals mobile app and use mobile coupons. If you have a smartphone, you owe it to your- self to download the My Deals mobile app. With your smartphone it can locate coupons for you based on your location, whether you’re at home or on the road. Get started today and you’ll soon be on your way to saving hundreds of dollars per year, enough to more than pay for your Coast membership!. Happy Trails!
Our website has a cleaner look and easier navigation.
C oast to Coast launched a redesigned website in early May. In addition to having a cleaner graphic look and much simpler navigation, our website will now display correctly whether you view it on a computer, tablet, or smartphone. This feature alone is a major upgrade to our website, as it will automatically adjust to whatever device you’re using to display the information you’re accessing in a very readable form. Check out our new website at www. CoastResorts.com, and send any comments or feedback to CCRPresident@CoastResorts.com.
In addition to the two new resorts we announced in our spring issue, Coast to Coast recently added two more new resorts to our network. St. Croix River Resort is a new Coast Premier resort in Hinckley, Minnesota. This new resort is part of the Midwest Outdoor Resorts group that includes Rush- more Shadows Resort in Rapid City, South Dakota, and Hidden Bluffs Resort in Spring Grove, Minnesota. This new Coast affiliate is located about 90 minutes north of Minneapolis/St. Paul via I-35. Opportunities for outdoor activities abound at St. Croix River Resort, as the resort is a short distance from St. Croix State Park, St. Croix State Forest, and the St. Croix National Scenic Riverway.
MARCUS LEMONIS Chairman and CEO
BRUCE HOSTER President Coast to Coast Resorts bhoster@GoodSamFamily.com
Good Sam and Camping World marcusvip@GoodSamFamily.com
4 COAST TO COAST SUMMER 2015
MEM BER matt ers MAK I NG T HE MO S T O F Y OUR C OA S T T O C OA S T MEMB E R SH I P Multi-Resort Systems When an individual, company or corporation owns and operates two or more Coast to Coast affiliates, we refer to that as a multi-resort system. Visits by Coast to Coast members to properties within these resort groups have a special restriction. The restriction is that members cannot book back-to-back reservations at Coast resorts within a multi-resort system. After each stay in a multi-resort system, a member must be out of that multi-resort system for 7 days before starting another reservation/stay at a resort within that same multi-resort system. For example, a member books a stay for 4 days at Emerald Cove Resort, which is part of the Colorado River Adventures resort group. The member then tries to book a stay for the following 4 days at Lake Havasu RV Park, which is also part of the Colorado River Adventure resort group. Our Tripsetter Reservation System has rules built in that would prevent this reservation from being made, as the member would have to be out of the Colorado River Adventure resort group for 7 days following the initial stay to make the second reservation at Lake Havasu RV Park. Members who make drive-up reservations must pay close attention to the Multi-Resort System rule. We have had instances where drive-up members were initially accepted into a resort, only to be told a short time later that they had to leave the resort because their stay followed another stay in the same resort group and therefore they were in violation of the Multi-Resort System rule. For a complete list of Multi-Resort Systems, see page 42 of the 2015 Coast Resort Directory or the Benefits page on the CoastResorts.com website. Drive-Ups Drive-ups, defined as arriving at a Coast to Coast Resort or Good Neighbor Park without a reservation, is something that we discourage. The reason is that
A Primer on Coast Network Policies Coast members frequently ask us questions regarding policies for use of our Coast resort network. Following are brief explanations of our network policies in two key areas.
members who drive-up at a resort may not be able to stay at that resort, as the resort may not have sites available for Coast members. It is at the discretion of each affiliate whether they will honor the Coast to Coast rate for any member who drives up without a valid reservation, including day-use RVers. In addition, many resorts have policies that they will not accept drive- ups from Coast members. These policies are noted in the 2015 Coast to Coast Resort Directory and our online directory in each resort or Good Neighbor Park listing. Rather than driving up to resorts, we encourage Coast members to use our Tripsetter Reservation System to book reservations. Members can do this either through the CoastResorts.com website or by calling Coast Member Services at 1-800-368-5721. There is no additional charge when booking reservations through our member service center. So use our Tripsetter Reservation System to navigate the Coast network, and you’ll always enjoy smooth sailing.
SUMMER 2015 COAST TO COAST 5
MEMBER matters
COAST PREMIER TERMINATION: GEORGIA North Shore Resort, Greensboro (page 117) COAST DELUXE UPDATES: IOWA Lakeshore RV Resort and Campground, Oelwein (page 122) Formerly: Lake Shore RV Resort MICHIGAN
RESORT UPDATES ADDITIONS AND CHANGES TO THE 2015 DIRECTORY The 2015 Coast to Coast Resort Directory is packed with everything you need to navigate the network of Coast to Coast Resorts, Good Sam Parks, and Good Neighbor Parks. To keep members up-to-date, each issue of the magazine includes any updates that have occured since the last issue. St Croix River Resort - Midwest Outdoor Resorts, 40756 Grace Lake Rd, Hinckley, MN 55037 Resort: 605-399-7899; Reservation: 800-231-0425. Emails: Resort: sued@stcroixriverresort.com; reserva- tion: rickn@midwestoutdoorresorts.com. Website: midwestoutdoor- resorts.com. St. Croix Resort is located near the St. Croix River and adjacent to the St. Croix State Forest. Spacious cul-du-sac campsites provide privacy. Choose quiet relaxation or get involved in as many planned activities as you wish. Directions: From the Twin Cities: 35 N to Hinckley exit. Right on State Highway, 23 miles. Just before the St. Croix River turn left on Grace Lake Road. Resort 1 mile on Right. Latitude: 46.056021; Longitude: -92.466982. RV sites: Full: 0; Partial: 96; Dry: 10. Check -in: 4 p.m.; Check-out: 11 a.m. Season: May 1 – October 14. Max. RV Length: 44 feet; Max. Amps: 30. Amenities: fire rings, picnic tables, activity center, gift shop, crafts, dump stations (2), activities, firewood, grocery, handicap access, showers (hot), ice, laundry, picnic area, playground, RV supplies, tenting, tubing, canoes, pavilion, shuttle trips, badminton, horseshoes, indoor pool, volleyball, tourist attractions nearby, casino nearby, fishing nearby, golf nearby. COAST PREMIER UPDATES: NORTH CAROLINA Sycamore Lodge - Travel Resorts of America; Jackson Springs (page 145) Reservations: 855-432-8457; Fax: 910 -693-3065 OHIO Rocky Fork Ranch - Travel Resorts of America, Kimbolton (page 149) Reservations: 855-432-8457 Wally World Riverside Resort - Travel Resorts of Ohio, Loudonville (page 150) Reservations: 855-432-8457 OKLAHOMA Eagle’s Landing (formerly Bear’s Den Resort), Grove (page 153) PENNSYLVANIA Gettysburg Battlefield Resort - Travel Resorts of America, Gettysburg (page 158) Reservations: 855-432-8457 COAST TO COAST RESORTS COAST PREMIER ADDITIONS: MINNESOTA
Timberlake Resort & RV Club, (page 129) New Email: tammy@timberlakervresort.com TENNESSEE Big Buck Camping Resort, Hornsby (page 160)
Directions: From Jackson: Hwy 45 S, to Hwy 64. Right toward Mem- phis, follow for 10 miles (just past the Hardeman County Road sign), Right on Sparks Road, the resort is 0.3 miles on the Left. From Mem- phis: US 64 E 10 miles E of Bolivar. Left on Sparks Road.
COAST DELUXE TERMINATION: ALBERTA Half Moon Lake Resort, Sherwood Park (page 190) COAST CLASSIC ADDITIONS: MEXICO
El Golfo RV Resort - Colorado River Adventures, Los Cinco Amigos Del Golf, Clara S.A. de C.V., El Golfo, Sonora, 85344. Resort: 760- 663-494; Reservation: 760-663-4968. Emails robinj@cramember. com; coloradoriveradventures.com. Description: Located on the Sea of Cortez an hour south of Yuma, Arizona, with miles of pristine white sand beach, tidepools and breathtaking area views. A fish- ing village with charter fishing available, great shrimp and just a few restaurants in town. For off-road enthusiasts El Golfo boasts sand dunes comparable to Glamis. Directions: South on Highway 95 through Yuma, Arizona to Mexican border town of San Luis. Go through Declaration Lane (on left). Go 8 stops, watch for overhead sign to El Golfo. Turn right. Stay on Road (003). Resort is 2 miles south on beach after asphalt ends. Latitude 33.9172; Longitude: -114.3885. RV sites: Full: 165; Partial: 0; Dry: 0. Check-in: 8 a.m.; Check-out: 3 p.m. Season: Year-round. Max. RV length: 40 fee; Max. amps: 30. Notations: Drive-ups not accepted. Amenities: outdoor swimming pool, shuffleboard, store, clubhouse (w/satellite TV), laundry, volleyball court, basketball court, beach (private), game room, Jacuzzi, off-roading, golf nearby, fishing nearby. INDIANA Grand View Bend, Howe (page 121) Resort: 574-575-5927; Reservations: 574-575-5927 OKLAHOMA
Terra Starr Park, Checotah (page 152) Street address: 420589 E 1147 Road TEXAS River Bend Country Club, Brownsville (page 162) Formerly River Bend Resort
GOOD NEIGHBOR PARKS GOOD NEIGHBOR ADDITIONS: NEW YORK
Jellystone at Birchwood Acres - Sun RV Resorts, 85 Martinfield Road, Greenfield Park, NY 12435. Resort: 888-886-2477; Reservation: 248-234-6027. Website: sunrvresorts.com. Located in the foothills of the New York Catskill Mountains, the resort offers a full amenity pack- age. Participate in the many planned activities available all season. Take a dip in our swimming pool, relax in the hot tub or stay active
6 COAST TO COAST SUMMER 2015
You can save many steps and frustration by putting your RV license tag number and car license tag number in your cell phone address section. We use the Z section because that’s rarely used. YOU’RE THE EXPERTS INSIDE INFORMATION FROM COAST TO COAST MEMBERS What do these people all have in common? • Bonnie and Vance Clegg, Breckenridge Lake Resort • Jim Deorio, Bass Lake Resort—Travel Resorts of America • Gary and Vickie Doramus, Timber Lodge RV Resort • John Van Houten, Scroon River—Adirondack Adventures Each of these Coast to Coast members has shared expert advice in our magazine and earned $25 for their efforts. Their advice ranged from the simple I-wish-I’d-thought-of- that like using a Swiffer Sweeper to clean the outside of the RV, to more challenging tips such as fixing a broken refrigera- tor door handle. Each “aha” moment shared with our mem- bers made life easier for quite a few people and earns you some play money. So put on your thinking cap and jot down your best tips and send them in. Here’s how. Email your tips and accompanying photos or sketches to editor@coastresorts.com. Make sure to include your name, the name of your Coast to Coast home resort, and your mail- ing address. If your tip is selected for publication, you’ll receive $25. Cash is going out this edition to Jerry Vite. His tip is simple but will save you time and energy. GIVE ADVICE; GET $$$
with a game of basketball or softball. There’s a fantastic amenity pack- age and great local attractions. Directions: From New York City: Route 87 (Thruway) N to Exit 16. Route 17 (I-86) W to Exit 113. Right on route 209 N 13 miles to Ellenville. Left on route 52 W for 8.5 miles. Left at sign 1 mile. From Albany: Route 87 S (Thruway) to Exit 19. Route 209 S 29 miles to Ellenville. Right on Route 52 West for 8.5 miles. Left at sign for 1 mile. From: Hartford: Route 84 W to Exit 4W. Route 17 W to Exit 113. Then follow directions from New York City above. Latitude: 41.7259269 Longitude: -74.4857134. Check-in 2 p.m.; Check-out 2 p.m. Season: May 3 to October 8. Max. RV length: 45 feet; Max. amps: 50. Notations: Additional charges: $16/night additional adult (8 and older); $7/night additional child (ages 3-7). Standard site includes: full hook-up, 30 amps, gravel, back-in, two adults, two children. Drive-ups not accepted. Amenities: outdoor pool, hot tub, grocery store, playground, picnic tables, fire ring, group activities, ball field, gift shop, tennis, RV supplies, basketball, shuffle board, fishing. SOUTH DAKOTA No Name Luxury Cabins & RV, I-90 Exit 34, 20899 Pleasant Valley Drive, Sturgis, SD 57785. Resort: 605-347-8891; Fax: 605-347-8891; emails: camping@nonamecity.com; nonamecity.com. Nestled in the Black Hills of South Dakota, No Name City Luxury Cabins & RV is a small, family oriented campground. The resort has both tree cover and open all-grass camping. Directions: I-90 Exit 34. Southside of Inter- state. Drive .75 miles on service road (Pleasant Valley Drive). Do not use address on GPS. Latitude: 44.363405; Longitude: -103.46579. RV sites: Full: 19; Partial: 28; Dry: 9. Check-in: noon; Check-out: 11 a.m. Season: April 1 to September 30. Max. RV length: 40 feet; Max. amps: 30. Amenities: recreation hall, cable TV, dump station, group activi- ties, handicap access, showers (hot), hot tub, ice, laundry, library, lounge, meeting rooms, movie rentals, pavilion (outdoor), picnic area, picnic tables, playground, pool table, propane, pull through, rentals, outdoor pool (heated), tenting, hiking trails, TV lounge, showers (in- dividual stalls). TENNESSEE Smoky Mountain Premier RV Resort, 4874 Hooper Hwy, Cosby, TN, 37722. Resort: 855-557-6778. Emails: info@smprvresort.com; smprvresort.com. The property borders the Great Smoky Mountains National Park with trail heads located right next to the property. The property is planning two phases of building. The first phase will include a pool with sun deck, office, pavilion, rally room, restrooms, laundry room, and approximately 75 full hook-up sites. There is 4G cell service throughout the property. Directions: From Gatlinburg: TN-73 E/US-321 N/US-321 Scenic S Go NE toward East Parkway. Continue straight onto TN-73 E/US-321 N/US-321 Scenic S/East Parkway con- tinue to follow TN-73 E/US-321 Scenic S. Resort on Right. Latitude: 35.7742, Longitude: -83.2583. RV sites: Full: 60; Partial: 0; Dry: 0. Check-in: 2 p.m.; Check-out: 11 a.m. Season: Year-round. Notations: Additional charges: $5/night additional adult or child, $2/night pets, $1/night Wi-Fi, $5/night additional vehicle, $3/night pull-through. Tax. Amenities: recreation hall, outdoor swimming pool, laundry, fit- ness room, firewood, ice, gift shop, Wi-Fi access, cable TV, playground, hiking trails, horseshoes, volleyball, handicap access, biking, fishing nearby, golf nearby, shopping nearby, church nearby.
JERRY VITE Pride Resort, North Carolina
GOOD NEIGHBOR TERMINATIONS: ARIZONA Picacho Peak RV Resort, Picacho
ILLUSTRATION BY WAYNE SHIPP
SUMMER 2015 COAST TO COAST 7
MEMBER matters
Experience unique and spacious cul-de-sac campsites at St. Croix River Resort St . Croix River Resort
says Sue Dutcher, resort manager. “Explore the miles of trails on your ATV in the beautiful forests. Experi- ence a tube float trip, paddle a canoe, or do a little quiet fishing. Enjoy a refreshing swim in the warm indoor pool. Then end your day with a glow- ing campfire, roasting marshmallows with some favorite songs or stories,” she says. There’s more to the resort than the river. Relax in your spacious site enjoy- ing either full hookup sites or electric/ water sites. Don’t worry about having to leave the resort to pick up forgotten items. The convenience store has just what you need. Plan a picnic with the new friends you’ve made during your stay in the covered pavilion. When not playing in the river, enjoy the well-maintained playground. Spend a lazy afternoon or evening in the game
room. Let our activities director help you make the most of your stay with activities and events. Enjoy volleyball, badminton, and horseshoes. Offsite fish, tube, or canoe along the St. Croix River. Visit Minnesota’s largest state park: St. Croix State Park. Don’t miss the Grand Casino Hinckley for endless entertainment and concerts. You can walk, bike, or ride the Wil- lard Munger State Trail. Make sure to pack your clubs and play a round at the Grand National Golf Club. Visit the Hinckley Fire Museum, located in the restored railroad depot. Travel back to an earlier time when there were individual men’s and wom- en’s waiting rooms. Visit the depot agent’s apartment and watch a docu- mentary in the Freight Room.
E scape your hectic lifestyle and enjoy a stay at a Minnesota RV resort lo- cated alongside the St. Croix River—90 minutes northeast of the Twin Cities. “St. Croix River Resort is located near the St. Croix River and adjacent to the St. Croix State Forest. The spacious cul-de-sac campsites provide privacy not found elsewhere. You can choose quiet relaxation or get involved in as many planned activities as you wish,” RESORT TYPE: Coast Premier LOCATION: Hinckley, Minnesota SEASON: May to October WEBSITE: www.midwestoutdoorresorts.com
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The Sea of Cortez forms the backdrop of this South of the Border resort El Golfo Beach Resort
“It’s lovely; it’s not touristy,” says Lindee Woody, member referral coor- dinator. “There are darling restaurants and shops nearby and the beach feels like it’s a private beach—rarely oc- cupied by locals. You can walk for miles and miles from our resort on untouched beaches, which are great for sand dollar collecting” “There’s enough of the sleepy cul- ture of Mexico, with enough of the amenities that you feel like you’re on vacation,” she said. The resort is complemented by miles of off-road trails, sand dunes, and deep sea fishing. Rent an ATV and experi- ence the time of your life. Onsite, feast at the poolside cabana and cantina or take a dip in the pool. Feel safe with 24-hour security. There’s a clubhouse, family recreation center, and planned activities. Other amenities include a Ja-
cuzzi, game room, and RV storage. Offsite try your hand at snorkeling or SCUBA diving, which takes you to the gorgeous and active reefs below. Charter a boat and catch the big one while deep sea fishing. As of March 1, 2010, all U.S. citi- zens—including children—must pres- ent a valid passport, book, or card, for travel beyond the “border zone” into the interior of Mexico. Bring your vehi- cle registration and insurance card. It’s always advisable to purchase Mexican auto insurance, which will protect you during your trip. The Sea of Cortez has been called “The Word’s Aquarium” and “The World’s Greatest Fish Trap.” The sea is abundant with game fish and an ex- traordinary amount of world record fish have been taken in these waters.
I f you’re a fan of the sea, sand, and sun, then head your rig across the border from Yuma, Arizona, to El Golfo, Mexico. In addition, if you enjoy boating, fishing, golf, water ski- ing, hiking, swimming, or just relaxing with friends and family, then El Golfo Beach Resort is the place for you. Just imagine parking your RV on the edge of the Sea of Cortez and enjoying a re- laxing or activity-filled vacation. RESORT TYPE: Coast Classic LOCATION: El Golfo, Sonora, Mexico SEASON: Year-round WEBSITE: www.coloradoriveradventures.com
SUMMER 2015 COAST TO COAST 9
A UTAH ROAD TRIP Driving Amid the Red Rocks Photos and story by Emily Fagan
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COAST TO COAST SUMMER 2015
Clockwise: Camping in the red rocks of Utah, Gorgeous view of Hite Crossing Bridge in Glen Canyon, Thick and squat Kachina Bridge
W ith 27 officially designated National and State Scenic Byways, it’s nearly impossible to drive any kind of distance in Utah without going through some spectacular country- side, no matter what route you choose. However, there is one drive a bit off the beaten path that is not nearly as well known as the other Scenic Byways and yet is truly worthy of a detour. The Bicentennial Highway is lightly traveled and easily driven—even in a big rig— and our eyes kept popping at the majes- tic scenery as we drove. Turning from that road onto the Capitol Reef Scenic Byway, I just couldn’t stop taking photos out the windows. Starting this 163-mile journey across southeastern Utah in Blanding, my hus- band Mark and I headed south on U.S. Route 191 and then took a right turn to head west on SR-95. This special road was named the “Bicentennial Highway” because the final yards of asphalt were poured in 1976—the year of the U.S. Bicentennial. It is utterly spectacular and
very worthy of an RV road trip. Eyeing it on the map before we start- ed, we were a little nervous that there might be switchbacks or tight turns that would be difficult with our 36-foot fifth- wheel and long-bed truck. However, the grades and sweeping turns were very manageable and the entire drive was a sheer delight. With every bend in the road, we found ourselves craning our necks to take in the stunning views out our win- dows. Enormous, patterned red rock walls lined the sides of the road, and mystical red rock formations rose up from the horizon and changed shape as we passed them by. The landscape was vast, open and colorful, and completely devoid of the human touch. Everywhere we looked, we felt inspired by the won- drous creations of a divine hand. In Blanding, while inquiring at the Visitors Center about the difficulty of traversing this road with a big RV, we met Fred Johnson, a construction worker who had been part of the team that
paved this highway in the 1970s. For two years, he and his fellow workers lived out in this magnificent landscape, enduring all kinds of discomforts and hardships while upgrading this beautiful road to suit the modern age of fast mov- ing cars. What a place to work. The road was first constructed in 1935 as a gateway from Blanding to the Natural Bridges National Monument and remained unpaved through the 1960s. It wasn’t until the 1970s that portions of the road began to be paved. Yet, because it doesn’t link any major towns or cit- ies, we found that as we passed by one glorious red rock vista after another on our way to Natural Bridges, there was rarely another vehicle on the road. How isolated and scorching hot it must have been to work those asphalt machines on this gorgeous, lonely road. Yet what a stunning landscape to call “the office.” We arrived at Natural Bridges uncer- tain of what to expect. It turns out that this fascinating National Monument fea- tures three huge natural rock arches.
SUMMER 2015 COAST TO COAST 11
To make the experience even more breathtaking, each natural bridge is accessed by a steep hike down to the base of the bridge and then back up again. Luckily, we hadn’t worn ourselves out with a workout yet that morning, so as we started down the trail to the first arch, called Sipapu Bridge, and arrived at the first rough-hewn Navajo-looking log ladder, we scampered down it full of vim and vigor. The trail to the Sipapu Bridge hugs a massive overhanging rock wall that Mother Nature has painted in wide swaths of black and orange and pink. It is hard to believe that the forces of wind and water have shaped these rocks, and as we hiked along in the soft sand in the shade of these cliffs, I couldn’t help but imagine the ancient people who once sought shelter here. What a surprise it was, then, in the midst of these musings, to look down and see bare footprints before us in the sand. It turned out they were footprints left behind by the new and popular “FiveFinger” shoes worn by Clockwise: Mark climbs down a rough hewn wooden ladder to Sipapu Bridge, Sipapu Bridge at Natural Bridges National Monument, Glen Canyon was formed by damming the Colorado River to form Lake Powell
the cliff dwellers from the Mesa Verde area 150 miles away in Colorado had called this place home around 1200 A.D. We got our workout once again as we huffed and puffed up the ladders and staircases back to the loop road, and then drove on to the next bridge, Owachomo, where once again we scrambled down to the base. In contrast to its two sister bridges, this bridge is thin and soars high into the air, looking quite delicate from a distance. Up close, however, it is a mas- sive structure as well, with trees growing under its foundation. Driving the eight-mile-long rim road around Natural Bridges, we got an over- view of the marvelous landscape of the area as well as great views of the three bridges. Many visitors to Natural Bridges skip the hiking part, but for us the high- light of this park was the four miles of walks through nature and the fun obsta- cle courses that we encountered as we hiked down to and up from each bridge. Back out on the Bicentennial Highway, we continued our road trip. As we watched
a hiker ahead of us. Sipapu Bridge is a grand sandstone arch that has the classic shape of an ordi- nary bridge. Although we were among a few dozen people who hiked to it on this particular day, the first American settler to come across it was Cass Hite when he was out searching for gold in 1883. After we admired the bridge for a while, we made our way back up along the striped rock wall to the wooden ladders and on up to the loop road that winds through the park. The second stone arch in the col- lection is Kachina Bridge and, just like Sipapu, it requires hiking down stairways that have been carved into the sandstone by the National Park Service and clam- bering down log ladders as well. Unlike Sipapu, however, Kachina is a thick and squat bridge that crosses a large cool wash filled with brilliant green shade trees. Along the flanks of this bridge we saw the faint etchings of petroglyphs that were pecked out of the rock eons ago. We were intrigued to learn that some of
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Clockwise: The Bicentennial Highway snakes through spec- tacular red rock vistas, the bare footprint of a “FiveFinger” shoe, the orchard and the antique farm wagon let us know we’re close to the Community of Fruita
the various red rock formations go by, we were reminded that their shapes can be a lot like psychologists’ ink blots—often they resemble something. We passed a pair of flat-topped mesas that Native Americans called “Bears Ears” and then another mam- moth red rock configuration that the early Mormons dubbed “Jacob’s Chair.” Even though no one keeps cheese in a box any more, we instantly recognized the forma- tion called “Cheese Box” when it appeared ahead of us. No sooner did these fanciful forma- tions fade into the distance behind us than the Bicentennial Highway began a series of marvelous turns and descent as it carried us toward Glen Canyon Dam. This stunning portion of the road was so exhilarating that I could barely sit still in my seat. Much to Mark’s surprise, at one point I practically climbed out the truck window so I could get photos of the magical landscape around us, especially as we approached the Hite Crossing Bridge at the confluence of the Colorado and the Dirty Devil rivers.
There is a fabulous viewing area where visitors can get a bird’s eye view of the waterways and valleys from several dif- ferent vantage points, and we wandered around these viewpoints for quite some time, reading the plaques that described the geology and history of the area. Glen Canyon Dam was built in the 1960s, and when it blocked the Colorado River to form Lake Powell, the water not only rose above ancient Native American settlements containing artifacts, petroglyphs, and precious clues to the ancient human history of this raw land, but it drowned the more recent mining town of Hite City. After World War II, uranium was eagerly mined in this area, and the folks who created the subsequent boom town were said to have “uranium on the cranium.” Naturally, a bust eventually followed, and the remains of Hite City weren’t considered worthy of preserving in the 1960s com- pared to the power, water, and flood control that the new Lake Powell would provide to the region.
Once we left Glen Canyon in our wake, all these fabulous images and his- tory gave us much to ponder and chat about as the sights along the Bicentennial Highway grew more ordinary and we settled back into routine driving. In the tiny community of Hanksville, we turned left onto SR-24 to continue our journey west on the Capitol Reef Scenic Byway. In no time we were craning our necks once again as exotic rock formations in shades of grey and maroon began to loom up out of the landscape around us. This portion of the Capitol Reef Scenic Byway is characterized by pale, tower- ing cliffs, and swirling rock patterns that look like the gods dipped their fingers in finger paint and smeared the colors on the rounded domes. After a while, these smooth, colorful surfaces gave way to bold, jagged red rock cliffs with flanks resembling cathedral buttresses. We had arrived at Capitol Reef National Park, a long skinny park, about 5 miles wide by 50 miles long, that runs on a north-south axis along a huge buckle in the earth’s
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Clockwise: Thrilling views in Capitol Reef National Park encourage you to get out of your vehicle, stand, and take it all in.
crust called the Waterpocket Fold. The tiny community of Fruita is at the heart of this area. Mormons settled there in the late1800s, and by 1917 had built a lively village filled with orchards. Cherries, apricots, peaches, pears, and apples are still grown in Fruita, but on our visit we were a little too early to take advantage of the harvests. Driving the scenic road through the park, we saw remnants of Fruita’s past, including an old plow standing in a field and an old pioneer schoolhouse. This area was extremely difficult for the Mormon pioneers to reach, due to the rugged terrain of the Waterpocket Fold. However, there was one route into town via Capitol Gorge that ran along the bottom of a wash. Between 1871 and the early 1940s, Mormons arrived via this route, first by horse and buggy and then by car. We hopped out of our truck to stretch our legs, and hiked partway into this wash, following the tall stone cliffs on either side. High up on the flat rock sur-
face to one side, we spotted the etched names, initials and dates that had been carved by the arriving pioneers long ago. This antique graffiti is called the “Pioneer Register” today, and we saw names and dates from the late 1800s all the way up to 1942. This hike was the first of many glori-
For More Information * Visit www.visitutah.com/plan-your-trip/ getting-around-utah/scenic-byways of pioneers arriving in Fruita, we had been treated to a dazzling array of sights. If you are planning a trip through Utah’s more notable regions, consider a detour that includes these two awe-inspiring scenic byways in the southeastern part of the state. *Utah’s scenic byways are a system of 27 routes statewide that offer outstanding beauty and are clearly designated with colorful highway signs. The byways are also indicated with dotted lines on the official Utah highway map. driving tour across southeastern Utah. Utah’s Bicentennial Highway and Capitol Reef Scenic Byway gave us a road trip we will never forget. From the unique stone arches of Natural Bridges National Monument to the jaw-dropping scenic vistas along the highways to the dramatic system of waterways and gorges in Glen Canyon to the Mormon register
ous hikes, bike rides and scenic drives we took through Capitol Reef National Monument during our week-long stay and was the perfect cap to our wonderful
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ShoreLeave North, South, East, or West: National Seashores offer year-round fun
By Dave G. Houser
For most of us, there’s no better day than one spent visiting the seashore. Our nation is embraced by nearly 12,000 miles of coastal shoreline, so we Americans are truly fortunate. The U.S. Congress designated some of the nation’s most important and least developed coastal areas as national seashores, based upon natural, cultural, and recreational attributes. Responsibility for preserving and protecting them falls to the National Park Service (NPS) that administers ten national seashores gracing the coastlines of ten states. While no written description or static image can match the experience of a live visit, here’s a summary of each of America’s national seashores. Seashores are listed from west to east.
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Point Reyes If you love the sight of long stretches of deserted beaches, rugged cliffs and head- lands punctuated by wind-bent trees and a stately old lighthouse, basking elephant seals, and circling seabirds—you’re an ideal candidate for a visit to California’s Point Reyes National Seashore (PRNS). This 100-square-mile sanctuary, occu- pying a dramatic peninsula alongside Highway 1 in Marin County, preserves a
Gulf Islands Largest of the country’s national sea- shores, Gulf Islands National Seashore (GINS) extends across a 150-mile-long string of barrier islands in Florida and Mississippi, protecting 137,458 acres of beach, maritime forest, and wetlands. Snowy-white beaches at Santa Rosa Day Area and Perdido Key rank among the finest in the state and provide a real contrast to some of the park’s other fea-
Historic 1870 Point Reyes Lighthouse is a top attraction, as is a nearby 1927 life- boat station. Information: 415-464-5100 www.nps.gov/pore. Padre Island One of a pair of national seashores fronting the Gulf of Mexico, Padre Island National Seashore (PINS) is located 43 miles southeast of Corpus Christi, Texas,
Left to Right: Point Reyes’ shoreline is home to breeding northern elephant seas. The Point Reyes Lighthouse is also known as Point Reyes Light or the Point Reyes Light Station. Kemp’s Ridley sea turtles nest at Padre Island National Seashore. The white sand beaches of the Gulf Islands National Seashore welcome human visitors and birds, such as this great blue heron.
colorful tapestry woven with threads from its unique geography, natural diversity, and long history of human culture. Home to 1,500 species of plants and animals, including more than 400 species of birds, PRNS keeps naturalists with an interest in flora and fauna busy. Whale spotting is popular during the annual gray whale migration from January through April. From December to March, a breed- ing colony of northern elephant seals takes over the beach at Drake’s Bay. Hiking is the most popular activity available to visitors and the park boasts a 150-mile system of trails.
tures, including a pair of Civil War-era forts—Barrancas and Pickens—both open to visitors. Naval Live Oaks Visitor Center is a good place to view exhibits tracing the history of the area’s dense stand of live oak trees, once used in the building of wooden naval ships. Aside from the William M. Colmer Visitor Center in Ocean Springs, the Mississippi District consists of offshore islands accessible only by boat. Boasting a diversity of ecological com- munities, both districts of GINS are nota- ble for a variety of wildlife. Nearly 300 species of birds have been documented within the park and it’s a refuge for the
on an undeveloped 70-mile stretch of the world’s longest barrier island. PINS offers a haven for some 380 species of birds and is one of the few nesting grounds for the Kemp’s Ridley sea turtle—most endangered of all sea turtles. The creatures nest here from April through mid-July. Visitors spend their days at PINS splashing in the usually warm and gentle Gulf waves, shell collecting, kite flying, windsurfing, and fishing. Anglers surf-cast here, with moderate success, for sea trout, redfish and whiting. Information: 361-949-8068/9 www.nps.gov/pais.
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Now the island’s serene landscapes and 17 miles of gorgeous sand and surf mix with moody marshes, maritime forests, and fading reminders of a grander time to provide a memorable visitor experience. The NPS ferry operates twice a day shuttling passengers between the town of St. Marys, Georgia, and CINS. Most day-trippers catch the 9 a.m. ferry to join the ranger-guided and narrated “Land & Legacies” tour. This six-hour, 30-mile van tour covers much of the island, visit-
endangered loggerhead sea turtle and gopher tortoise. Information: 850-934-2600 in Florida, 228-875-9057 in Mississippi www.nps.gov/guis. Canaveral Located adjacent to Kennedy Space Center, Canaveral National Seashore (CNS) is a peaceful and pristine barrier
community of Eldora. CNS provides habitat for 14 endan- gered or threatened animal species, including three species of sea turtles—log- gerhead, leatherback and green—that come ashore from May through August to nest on island beaches. Mosquito Lagoon provides refuge for manatees dur- ing the spring and summer. Bottle-nosed dolphins also frequent both lagoon and ocean. Bird watching is great here too, especially during the winter.
Left to Right: Fort Massachusetts is a Civil War-era fortress on West Ship Island, Gulf Islands National Seashore. Check out the interpretive signs or take a hike on the many trails at Canaveral National Seashore. No matter which National Seashore you visit, plan on great beaches. Birds of all kinds—pelicans, terns, and gulls—and sand dunes, greet you at Cumberland Island National Park.
ing its most important scenic and historic sites. Highlights include the ruins of 18th-century Dungeness Mansion, Plum Orchard Mansion, and The Settlement. Plum Orchard is a beautifully renovated Classic Revival-Style manasion built by the Carnegies in 1898. The settlement was established in the 1890s for workers. Other visitor options include hiking or cycling the island’s main road and 50 miles of trails. Information: 912-882-4336 www.nps.gov/cuis.
island spanning 24 miles—the longest stretch of undeveloped beach on Florida’s east coast. The island is bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on the east and Mosquito Lagoon on the west. CNS offers water-based recreation, including canoeing and kayaking, hiking, horseback riding, and wildlife viewing. Boardwalks provide easy access to Apollo and Playalinda beaches. Four nature and historic trails are found in the northern reaches of the park. Turtle Mound Trail, a self-guided 0.3-mile track leads to an ancient 50-foot-high Timucuan Indian shell midden. Eldora Trail leads about the same distance to the long-abandoned Mosquito Lagoon
Information: 321-267-1110 www.nps.gov/cana. Cumberland Island
One of several of southern Georgia’s “Golden Isles,” Cumberland Island was established as a national seashore in 1972. Cumberland Island National Seashore (CINS) is accessible only by NPS ferry. Its semi-isolation, and the fact that most of the island served as the domain of the wealthy Carnegie family from the 1880s until it was acquired by the NPS in 1971, have spared it for posterity.
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Cape Lookout One of a pair of North Carolina’s string of Outer Banks barrier islands to be des- ignated national seashores, Cape Lookout National Seashore (CLNS) is not nearly as well known or frequently visited as its neighbor to the northeast, Cape Hatteras National Seashore. The two parks are geographically simi- lar, comprised of slender slivers of sand facing the Atlantic Ocean to the east and
Information: 252-728-2250 www.nps.gov/calo. Cape Hatteras Stretching north to south across three Outer Banks barrier islands—Bodie, Hatteras, and Ocracoke—Cape Hatteras National Seashore (CHNS) protects a 70-mile string of scenic beach, sand dunes, marshes, and woodlands. It was designated in 1953 as the country’s first
Noted for its epic winds and world- class waves, Cape Hatteras is a hotspot for surfing, windsurfing, and kite boarding. Fishing is excellent here, too. Information: 252-473-2111 www.nps.gov/caha. Assateague Island Best known for its herd of wild horses, Assateague National Seashore (AINS) is a 37-mile-long barrier island that sweeps
Left to Right: Kayaks are popular at Cape Lookout National Seashore. Sea oats defend against erosion. Cape Hatteras Lighthouse is the tall- est brick lighthouse in the United States. Visitors enjoy life on the beach in a variety of ways. RV camping is inviting at Assateague Island National Seashore.
backed on the mainland side by shallow sounds, but CLNS is largely undevel- oped. Its three barrier islands—North Core Banks, South Core Banks, and Shakleford—offer 56 miles of white-sand beach, accessible only by ferry and ideal for sunbathing, surfing, and fishing. Ferries carry passengers and vehicles across Core Sound from the mainland to the islands. A ferry also connects the Cape Hatteras community of Okracoke and historic Portsmouth Village on North Core Banks. Cape Lookout Lighthouse is another major point of interest. Visitors can climb 207 steps to the top.
national seashore. Although the beach scene is quite similar to that of Cape Lookout, highway access to CHNS (via NC Highway 12) has resulted in much greater develop- ment, including motels, restaurants and other services. Once dubbed the “Graveyard of the Atlantic” for its treacherous shoals, cur- rents, and storms, Cape Hatteras has a wealth of history relating to more than 600 shipwrecks—and the lighthouses built to help prevent them. CHNS has three lights, the renowned Cape Hatteras Lighthouse, Bodie Lighthouse, and Ocracoke Lighthouse—the latter two open for climb- ing from mid-April to October.
south from Ocean City Maryland and well into Virginia. AINS is one of the most inviting of all the seashores and offers plenty to see and do. Cycling paths and hiking trails thread through both districts and canoeists and kayakers can ply the bay and marshes from designated launch areas. Surf and shell fishing are popular here and there are lifeguard-protected swimming beaches in both districts. Camping and vehicles are not allowed in the Virginia refuge. Go there instead to witness shorebirds passing through during their twice-yearly transcontinental migrations—or during the fall to see large flocks of snow geese that shelter in the
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uplands, and forests—that support more than 450 species of animals. The cultural landscape of CCNS is equally diverse. Preserved and open to public visitation are such historic struc- tures as Old Harbor Life Saving Station, the Nauset, Three Sisters and Highland Lighthouses, and the cliff-top site at South Wellfleet where, in the early 1900s, Italian inventor Guglielmo Marconi erected a telegraph transmitter that helped give birth to global wireless communication.
bays and marshes. Assateague’s famous horses (about 125 in Maryland; 150 in Virginia) have been around more than 300 years—descen- dants of domesticated animals brought by colonists to graze on the island. Information: 410-641-1441 www.nps.gov/asis. Fire Island Perhaps the most unusual and unlikely
The park protects two unique ecosys- tems worth seeing—Otis Pike Fire Island Wilderness, an isolated area of high dunes that is the only federal wilderness area in the state of New York, and the Sunken Forest, a 39-acre maritime holly forest, northernmost of its kind on the Atlantic Coast. Cultural attractions include Fire Island Lighthouse and the William Floyd Estate. The 1858 lighthouse, at the island’s west- ern end adjacent Robert Moses State Park,
Left to Right: Meet Jojo and Sonja, who live on Assateague Island. Piping plover nesting grounds are protected at Fire Island National Seashore. Tour the Sunken Forest at Fire Island. Visit the Life-saving Station at Cape Cod National Seashore or take a ranger-guided tour.
Hiking and bicycle trails invite visitors to explore hidden reaches of the 70-square-mile park. Among CCNS’s six swimming beaches, Coast Guard Beach in Eastham was a favorite of Thoreau and remains so today for local residents and visitors alike. Visiting CCNS is easy, with most park features situated off Route 6 between the entrance in Eastham and the eclectic village of Provincetown at the island’s northern tip. Information: 508-771-2144 www.nps.gov/caco. Images were provided by the National Park Service and David G. Houser.
features exhibits and interpretive programs. Information: 631-687-4750 www.nps.gov/fiis. Cape Cod “A man may stand there and put all America behind him,” noted famed author and naturalist Henry David Thoreau, in reference to the magnificent 40-mile stretch of Atlantic-facing beach preserved today as Cape Cod National Seashore (CCNS). Massachusetts’ national seashore encompasses an amazingly rich mosaic of ecosystems—sandy beaches, dunes, tidal flats, salt marshes, bogs, grasslands,
of all the national seashores, Fire Island National Seashore (FINS) exists in the very shadow of the Big Apple. Stretching 32 miles along the south shore of Long Island, Fire Island is a spaghetti-thin bar- rier island between Great South Bay and the Atlantic Ocean. Although much of the 9.6-square-mile island remains undeveloped, there are 17 small resort communities scattered around the island. With no paved roads, Fire Island is accessible only by shuttle ferries from Patchogue, Sayville, and Bay Shore, Long Island. The primary modes of intra-island transportation are walking, biking, and golf carting.
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