Measure Magazine, Vol. VI

Jordi Roca in conversation

Spanish pastry chef, Jordi Roca, considered the “World’s Best” by Restaurant Magazine and featured on Chef ’s Table, explains the importance of the interplay between taste and appearance along with his favorite creations .

World renowned chef and molecular gastronomist, Jordi Roca, developed an interest in pastries after recognizing that cooking didn’t have to be a chore; it could be an experience, it could tell a story, it could defy social norms. Roca’s restaurant, El Celler de Can Roca, ranked No. 1 on “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” list, twice, holds three Michelin Stars and continues to re-imagine dining as more of an artistic experience than simply a means to satisfy hunger. For Chef Roca, food has evolved beyond taste alone. Appearance plays a key role in creating a successful dish. “The way you invite the guest’s senses to approach the dish is going to define the taste experience,” says Roca. He is a craftsman, finding his inspiration from childhood experiences, the world of art, and other scientists. Roca states, “It’s like jazz—rather than sketching or having a mind picture, it just happens.” By blowing sugar the same way a glass artisan manipulates hot glass into graceful designs, Roca creates an edible floral arrangement captured in a transparent shell of sugar. Called Flower Bomb, it’s supposed to taste like a flower shop.

Childhood is a common theme among Roca’s dishes, because, often, those memories represent the playful side of life. Rainy Forest, a tree shaped dessert made from carob cookie, ice cream, fennel, and fir tree granite, incorporates a distilled dirt that is meant to transport the diner back to when they were a child, running through the grass barefoot, climbing up trees, unafraid of the world. When that whiff of moist dirt enters the nostrils, the reality of present day temporari- ly fades and the emotions evoked, engender both trust and curiosity. Molecular gastronomy is a mind game resulting in isomalt-encapsulated olive oil, glass potato chips, and transparent ravioli. Such techniques give a strawberry the ability to taste like a tomato or ice cream to taste like tobacco; changing the identity of something we

thought we understood. The science behind progressive cuisine is like an artist’s paints— the medium of storytelling.

RAINY FOREST Inspired by Roca’s childhood.

PHOTO: El Celler de Can Roca

VOLUME 6

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