Measure Magazine, Vol. V

FASHION MAGAZINE AT MARIST VOLUME 5, 2018/2019

ART DIRECTION TEAM Director: Isabelle Hanke

Natalie Alvarez Olivia Galbraith Erika Rothman Alexandria Usak

DESIGN + LAYOUT TEAM Directors: Caroline Denoyer & Julia Dimarzo

Katelyn Beebe Sarah Ditterline Grace Murphy Frances Ralbovsky

EDITORIAL TEAM Directors: Kasey Burke, Timothy Hafke, Valentina Soja Jacqueline Hoffman

Tara Kilcawley Catherine Sloat

CONTRIBUTORS Melissa Annecchini Emily Borgese Mary Kate Dichiara Kerri Hannigan Isabel Holden Jacquelyn Kaiser Olivia Petrarca Bianca Rodriguez Claire Tisseyre Sophia Tortorella

PHOTO SHOOT ASSISTANCE Lauren Kurre Michelle Savino Mackensi Considine Alyssa Nagel

Cover Image Rachel Brennecke Image opposite page Caroline Denoyer

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interview 01 Becca Mccharen-Tran Founder of swim and athletic wear brand, Chromat By Kerri Hannigan

ARTWORK Katelyn Beebe and Staff

Fashion designer and former architect, Becca McCharen-Tran, arrives for a chat in black jeans, a mesh bodysuit of her own design and well-worn Doc Martens. On top is an oversized bomber jacket bearing a giant NASA patch, an institution with which she hopes to collaborate one day. Winged eyeliner in electric blue hints at her fearlessness and daring. Becca created the clothing brand Chromat, in 2010 as a women’s swim and athletic wear line. Since then, it has been widely recognized by celebrities, musicians and the fashion elite, as a source of what’s next.

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You just received a top prize from the Vogue CFDA Fashion Fund on Monday and Chromat has become a celebrity favorite. Do you consider yourself famous? It’s funny because I definitely didn’t start this way, but now that I’m hanging out with Anna Wintour, I can’t really call myself an outsider anymore. Even though I feel like not a traditional part of the system, I have had the opportunities to be a part of it. But, I mean, fame is not really something I’m...

Vogue has given me. So I have to recognize my own participation in this kind of white supremacy

privileges of being considered beautiful or being considered part of the fashion industry to one group of people, not another.

equation. I do think that new magazines that are helmed by people of color or women of color, deserve to have the same power. And hopefully, in the future, as the consumer continues to vote with their money or with their follows, it will be more equality based. I like how you said you’re part of the equation, but that Vogue has also given you a lot of power. Does that put you in an awkward position? No, not awkward. I have to leverage the privileges that I’m afforded and open the doors for others who don’t have the same privileges. That’s my responsibility. What do you mean by white supremacy in fashion? Can you talk more about that? Okay. So let’s talk about beauty norms. Straight hair is a white feature. It’s not super curly or kinky hair. To celebrate or to feature straight hair on the runway as the ideal of beauty is directly tied to white supremacy because that’s saying, “Straight hair is more beautiful than kinky hair or curly hair.” And that’s because, in that sense, that definition of beauty or hair has excluded a group of people who don’t naturally have that hair. And that’s celebrating people who do, which is white people. So that’s celebrating one type of beauty over another, and giving the power and

Do you talk to your colleagues about it?

All the time.

Have you said to Anna Wintour, “This is white supremacy?

Yeah, I need to do that. Our conversations are usually limited to a half a sentence so we don’t really go in [to it]. But I’ve talked to other people on her staff about it, and the former Editor in Chief of Teen Vogue talked openly about it, and I think that’s really powerful and amazing. Anna is building her team to be more diverse, and I think that’s happening, but there is still a lot to do. I was happy you brought up the body hair thing because your shows don’t hide it. Chromat models can have armpit hair. Recently, after Adidas ran a campaign with a Swedish model who had leg hair, she received death and rape threats. Why do you think female body hair evokes such a strong visceral and hateful response? I think that’s the male patriarchy trying to assert control and dominance over what’s considered beautiful and a certain narrow view of beauty and how a woman should maintain her body.

About?

Am I famous, am I not? It’s not really my goal. My goal is to continue to have the opportunity to be creative and empower women through what we make.

So are you an insider [laughter]?

I guess so. I don’t know. It depends on the inside of what.

What are your thoughts on institutions like Vogue Magazine , then? Do you respect it? I think you have to recognize where Vogue came from. It was a society magazine that celebrated society women who were white, and from the elite. And I think that white supremacy is entrenched in who Vogue continues to celebrate. I’m saying that, and I’m also recognizing the privileges that

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“Rather than spend my time wanting a seat at [their] table, I’d rather build my own.”

There’s so much societal pressure! When I don’t shave my armpits, even my friends are like, “You need to shave.” We would never tell a guy, “You need to shave.” And then, the amount of money that goes into it . . . Well, the strangest part of it is who set these rules? It was men. And what do men have to do with making decisions for a woman’s body? So you have been identified as and call yourself a queer designer. How do you define that? What does that mean? So I think the way being gay, being a lesbian, impacts my work is that I am no longer taking the male gaze into effect. I think designing a collection that has nothing to do with the male gaze is really something that’s unique to a queer designer. How would you respond to the criticism that “queerness” is on-trend and do you think the Chromat consumer views your use of non- binary, non-white models as sincere? Okay. Well, I have a lot of thoughts on that because it’s something that I’ve been asked or asked myself before and there are so many layers to this. So one thing I would say is that if you’ve only shown white, cis, thin, female models on the runway and then suddenly have one token trans model or one token

black model, it’s different than if you’ve always celebrated women that represent all aspects of womanhood. And for me, I’ve always celebrated it, so it’s not a trend for me. But another thing I’d like to touch on is that there are benefits to celebrating more than one type of person on the runway. Basically, it’s like you’re opening up your customer base to be wider-- the power of seeing yourself reflected on the runway can also be a consumer power, and so I think that we’re not just doing this to dismantle white supremacy. People can say, “Well, are you only having black models on the runway to have the black customer?” And I think there is a connection between seeing yourself and also wanting to, as a consumer, participate in that brand. It is connected. I think that the dream or the aspiration of being a fashion model can now be open to so many other people. Now more people have the dream of participating in fashion than in the past, and I think that’s a positive. I think I know the answer to this, but are you a feminist? Yeah, for sure. I feel like if your feminism isn’t intersectional, then what is your feminism? So I feel really strongly about supporting intersectional feminism.

because not everyone is just one single identity. It’s recognizing that every person contains multitudes, and feminism isn’t the only defining feature of their experience in life. They also have the defining feature of being black or being disabled, or Trans. You have to recognize the intersectionality of each person and celebrate all those different aspects of them. Is it hard to be in an industry where it can be really superficial? How do you balance being in an industry that a lot of people associate with the feminine, but not necessarily feminism? I think people putting fashion down because it focuses on beauty or hair, is also coming from this patriarchal system that puts women’s work below traditional men’s work. And I think there’s so many different ways to approach that. I guess I just feel like fashion and beauty have been looked down on as superficial, or not as big of an industry, or important to society because they traditionally concern women. But there is so much power in shaping your identity and that is also what beauty and fashion can be used for. And then the other reason it’s considered superficial is because it’s based on selling stuff. For me, I was not attracted to the whole consumer side and selling things, but you can’t escape it. In the past, fashion has been so exclusive, especially high fashion. You’re in or out. And that’s something I’ve never been interested in. But then I

And what exactly is intersectional feminism?

So intersectional feminism is the intersection between, for example, race and gender, or ability and gender,

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But you think once the technology is there, fashion houses will start to do it? Well, fashion has utilized technology in other ways. To reach their customer via social media, that’s a new technology. I have mixed feelings about social media. Do you love it or hate it? Do you think it’s connecting us or tearing us apart? I love social media. I think the thing I love about social media is that it’s completely broken down the hierarchy of who’s in charge, and who’s curating, and who’s maintaining these platforms. For example, in the past, if you were in Vogue , someone decided that, and it’s Anna or whoever. But it’s based on someone else’s decision on what’s cool, or what’s in fashion. Now, you can decide for yourself. You’re not waiting on someone else to give you the platform because you already have it.

realized past all the selling and buying, the design side is at the center of the work that I do. My entry point was through the art and making side. You love 3D printing and you use a lot of technical fabrics. I was wondering though, do you think technology makes the design process less personal? No, not all. I think it makes it more personal because as designing becomes more accessible, and anyone can print it in whatever color they want and whatever size they want, it becomes super customizable. And I think that’s really personal. Why do you think a lot of the bigger fashion houses aren’t using much emerging technology, like 3D printing? Well, because it’s super beta. It’s not even wearable. It’s not comfortable. It’s not ready yet.

PHOTOGRAPHY Marla Dipoto

In the wake of the 2016 presidential election, Becca and the Chromat team began work on the Fall/Winter 2017 collection. Flotation devices were chosen to represent survival and reflect a refusal to drown in political uncertainty and dread.

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Face Paint TEXT Kasey Burke and Staff

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Roots of Power The following looks represent a collaboration between artist, Rachel Gans, the Marist Fashion Archive and FM/AM’s student art direction team. Gans created each thematic wig specifically for this project based on current questions and sentiments expressed by the students. The use of vintage fashion was a natural pairing, since so many of these questions are eternal. Every year, culturally and historically important garments are added to our archive for study, inspiration and creative use.

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Shantelle Clark wears a 1990s Issey Miyake blouse, and a 2000s Comme des Garcons Homme jacket.

WIG Rachel Gans PHOTOGRAPHER Angelina Papageorge MAKEUP Michaela Olivero

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Shantelle Clark wears a 1970s Christopher Lee ribbed satin jumpsuit with hood. WIG Rachel Gans PHOTOGRAPHER Angelina Papageorge MAKEUP Michaela Olivero

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Shantelle Clark wears an unmarked 1940s silk satin jumpsuit, and Michael Kors shoes. WIG Rachel Gans PHOTOGRAPHER Angelina Papageorge MAKEUP Michaela Olivero

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Shantelle Clark wears a 1980s Yves Saint Laurent scarf tie dress, an unmarked leather sash and Cydwoq boots. WIG Rachel Gans PHOTOGRAPHER Angelina Papageorge MAKEUP Michaela Olivero

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Shantelle Clark wears a 1980s Norma Kamali OMO dress, 3D printed jewelry by Marist Fashion, and Blush bangle.

WIG Rachel Gans PHOTOGRAPHER Angelina Papageorge MAKEUP Michaela Olivero

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Deb Rodrigues wears a 2000s Comme des Garcons dress, Cydwoq boots, and vintage costume jewelry. WIG Rachel Gans PHOTOGRAPHER Angelina Papageorge MAKEUP Michaela Olivero

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Deb Rodrigues wears a 1970s Mollie Parnis Ultrasuede suit and Vera Neumann scarf.

WIG Rachel Gans PHOTOGRAPHER Angelina Papageorge MAKEUP Michaela Olivero

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Deb Rodrigues wears a 1960s Norell Tassell coat dress and 1970s Geoffrey Beene hammered satin pants with 3D printed jewelry by Marist Fashion WIG Rachel Gans PHOTOGRAPHER Angelina Papageorge MAKEUP Michaela Olivero

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Deb Rodrigues wears a 1970s Abecita Free blouse, bra, and skirt, Jan Jensen boots, and 3D printed jewelry by Marist Fashion WIG Rachel Gans PHOTOGRAPHER Angelina Papageorge MAKEUP Michaela Olivero

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Shantelle Clark wears a 1980s Arnold Scaasi dress, and vintage Italian white leather necktie.

WIG Rachel Gans PHOTOGRAPHER Angelina Papageorge MAKEUP Michaela Olivero

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SILVER NEEDLE RUNWAY MARIST’S ANNUAL DESIGN SHOWCASE PRODUCED BY AND FOR STUDENTS

FACULTY ADVISOR Melissa Halvorson

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Jared Aswegan Peter Brickman Rebecca Brown Cheryline Calcagni

GRAPHIC DESIGN CONSULTANT Frances Soosman

Radley Cramer Gayle Edgerton Jennifer Finn David Heinzinger

FASHION PHOTOGRAPHERS Rachel Brennecke Helena Palazzi Angelina Papageorge

Ellie Heinzinger Jodi Hartmann Eileen Iagrosse Richard Kramer Juan-Manuel Olivera-Silvera Liam O’Meara Ana Ortega John Mincarelli Richa Misra

HAIR AND MAKEUP Asari Duke M. Harris

Evan Mittman Jamie Perillo Sonia Roy Glenn Tunstull Julie Turpin Veleta Vancza

Michaela Olivero Sabrina Perlleshi

SPECIAL THANKS TO Rachel Gans Christina Halvorson

DISTRIBUTION Pineapple Media, United Kingdom

Bicoastal Model Management Cunneen Hackett Arts Center Hudson Valley Community Center Petalos Floral Design Rossi’s Deli PRINTER Quality Printing Company 3 Federico Dr, Pittsfield, MA 01201

CONTACT Marist Fashion Program 3399 North Road Poughkeepsie, NY 12601 845 575 3000 marist.edu/fashion Facebook: Maristfashionprogram Twitter: @Maristfashion Instagram: @Maristfashion

Image opposite page Caroline Denoyer

BY Melissa Annecchini and Staff

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The Paris of the Plains, in Pictures For people who frequently make the six hour non-stop flight between coasts, the “flyover” states are a mysterious patchwork gazed down upon between movie one and movie two. But, amid the waves of grain, in Kansas City, Missouri, is a thriving cultural scene, rich in food, music, architecture, and history. The strong bonds shared with its thirteen sister cities from Morelia, Mexico to Kurashiki, Japan, have made Kansas City an exciting international destination.

A walk through Country Club Plaza, the first of its kind in the nation, transports visitors to Seville, Spain, KC’s most well known sister city. Tile murals, mosaics, wrought iron balconies and terracotta roofs adorn the buildings that line the grand boulevard.

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Originally placed to provide citizens and their horses with a clean and reliable source of spring water, over time, Kansas City has amassed as many as 200 fountains. One of its several names is “The City of Fountains,” second only to Rome, Italy in number.

ARTWORK Katelyn Beebe

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Charlie “Bird” Parker was born in Kansas City in 1920 and passed away in 1955. In his short life, he became one of the most influential jazz saxophonists, inventing the fast-tempo style of bop or bebop. Nearly 50 years after his death, on the corner of 18th and Vine, a memorial was erected in honor of the jazz legend. It stands nearly two stories tall and reads: “Bird Lives.”

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Two miles southeast from downtown lies the heart of jazz, beating through the crowded clubs that line 18th and Vine Street. Between the 1920s and the 1940s, this district was the hub for famous jazz performers like Count Basie, Ella Fitzgerald, Louis Armstrong and Charlie Parker.

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Kansas City is the barbecue capital of the world. Here, the best barbecue you can find is in a gas station, where lines frequently snake around the block. All dishes are cooked atop hickory wood, slow and low so that ribs slide right off the bone. The finishing touch is KC’s signature sauce: a thick, smooth combination of molasses, tomato and spices. Locals and visitors indulge in “burnt ends,” one of the most popular regional dishes.

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During Prohibition, Kansas City gained its reputation as “The City of Sin,” due to the many speakeasy jazz clubs and wide-open nightlife. The attitude, personality and spirit of the district established another of the city’s nicknames as the, “Paris of the Plains.” Tom Pendergast and Al Capone frequented, Manifesto, an intimate speakeasy underneath the historic Rieger Hotel and restaurant. Today, the site is central to KC’s cocktail revival and annual mixology festival.

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Often referred to as “The Sydney Opera House Building,” the Kauffman Center for the Performing Arts modernized downtown Kansas City. Prairie grass encircling the building parallels the architecture. The Center was designed by Moshe Safdie, the architect of Habitat 67 in Montreal, the Khalsa Heritage Center in India and the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art in Arkansas. It serves as a tribute to Frank Lloyd Wright, who also designed many buildings in Kansas City.

When flying over Missouri, remember what lies within the wheat. Kansas City loves you.

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New Fashion & Arts Building Coming 2018-2019

Digital Artwork by Sarah Ditterline Renderings courtesy of Robert AM Stern Architects LLP

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PHOTOGRAPHER Helena Palazzi DESIGNER Sarah Katz MODEL (Left) Shantelle Clark, (Right) Kalah Hendricks HAIR/MAKEUP M. Harris and Asari Duke

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PHOTOGRAPHER Helena Palazzi DESIGNER Cristel Costavalo MODEL Kalah Hendricks HAIR/MAKEUP M. Harris and Asari Duke

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PHOTOGRAPHER Helena Palazzi DESIGNER Ashley Werner MODEL Dillon Evans

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PHOTOGRAPHER Helena Palazzi DESIGNER Ashley Werner MODEL Dillon Evans

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PHOTOGRAPHER Helena Palazzi DESIGNERS (Left) Ashley Werner (Right) Katherine Norkeliunas MODEL (Left) Dillon Evans (Right) Shantelle Clark

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PHOTOGRAPHER Helena Palazzi DESIGNER Nicole Kaiser MODEL (Left) Shantelle Clark, (Right) Kalah Hendricks HAIR/MAKEUP M. Harris and Asari Duke

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PHOTOGRAPHER Helena Palazzi DESIGNER Sarah Katz MODEL Kalah Hendricks HAIR/MAKEUP M. Harris and Asari Duke

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PHOTOGRAPHER Helena Palazzi DESIGNER Sarah Katz MODEL Shantelle Clark HAIR/MAKEUP M. Harris and Asari Duke

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interview 02 Emily Spivack Author of the New York Times Bestseller, Worn Stories By Alexandria Usakb y

ARTWORK Katelyn Beebe PHOTOGRAPHY Rachel Brennecke, courtesy of Abrams Books

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Brooklyn based writer and New York Times columnist Emily Spivack recently released Worn in New York (2017), the sequel to her best-selling 2014 book, Worn Stories . Early on in her career, Spivack combined her drive and her interest in fashion to benefit humanitarian efforts. She worked with Dress for Success, an organization which provides work- appropriate clothing to low-income women seeking employment. Following her mother’s battle with breast cancer, Spivack founded the nonprofit “Shop Well with You,”dedicated to helping women with cancer achieve a positive body image. The garments provided by Spivack become part of the emotional healing process as well.

Congratulations on the launch of Worn in New York . At your book launch, you said, “In NYC, we wear our clothes and we wear them hard.” Do you feel this city has enhanced the stories people have shared with you? I think that New York City touches so many different people and even if you’ve never been here, you’ve heard about it, and it can be aspirational. But, it can also be a place that people actually don’t like. People have feelings about this place and things happen in New York City that I feel just can’t happen anywhere else. I think about Thelma Golden’s story, and the dress that she wore to get married at City Hall. I mean, getting married at City Hall in New York is very distinctive. But that can happen anywhere else, but it is only in New York City that you’re going to see such a cross-section of people. And then the fact that her cab driver bought her flowers at the bodega. I mean, that could happen anywhere else but there’s just something so perfect about it happening here and I think that it just seems less likely that it would happen anywhere else. Also, because there are so many people here, when those things happen, they feel even more special. You’re probably never going to see that bodega owner again or the cab

driver again. And yet, acts of generosity happen here. Many people have been taught that New Yorkers are mean or New York City is scary or something. And then you’re just like, “But no, it’s not.” Actually, people, they’re nice. They want to help you.

the reader to be able to imagine who they were and not place anything on them: such as assumptions about gender, size, or age. You can’t make any judgments. Who is the one person you wish to interview in the future or wished you could have interviewed in your past books? Bill Cunningham. He would wear his distinctive blue jacket while riding his bike all around New York City. He had so many stories to share and a perspective on things that I think no one else had at the time. You have said before, “Everyone has a memoir in miniature in at least one piece of clothing.” Why is it important to tell that story? It’s more than just the clothing itself. There are these rich experiences that can be conveyed using the piece of clothing as a launching point. I treat the pieces as snapshots, they can disappear so easily once given or thrown away. When the person passes, their stories are lost too. I try to capture as many of those stories as I can before the clothing, or the narrative, is forgotten.

How did you choose the people that are featured in your new book?

I start with 10 people, and then look through and say, “Okay. Well, it feels like this type of profession is missing, or this age group, or this background, or this perspective,” and try to seek that out a little bit more. There’s also this element of surprise with interviewing someone over the phone; I don’t know what their story is going to be. I also consider tourists or people who really haven’t spent much time here. It’s just kind of always balancing that out; I like it to be a combination of names you would recognize and then people who are just incredible storytellers. How did you you decide on the accompanying artwork for each story? I wanted the stories and people’s voices to come through. I didn’t want any photos of the people who had been wearing the clothing because I wanted

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Has Worn Stories changed the consumer that you are?

way that I do, but that also probably comes from who I am. It allowed me to approach things in an interdisciplinary way. My work has always been taking bits and pieces from here or there and pulling them together. I mean, semiotics is sort of the science and symbols behind something. When you wear clothing you’re conveying a message open to interpretation.

themto start talking about that. If you’re not asked, you don’t think about it. In posing the question, it prompts people to start thinking about their belongings, why they hold onto things, why they buy things. Tying this all back to your own personal Worn Story , what are your oldest items in your closet? What value do these garments have to you? I have stuff that is old in my closet that I’ve had since I was a kid. I’ve been wearing this sweatshirt that has my name hand painted across it, which a family friend painted. I’ve probably had that for 20 plus years. And I’ve recently begun wearing it again and that’s been really fun. So it’s fun to rediscover those things and to appreciate them in adifferent way. I live in Brooklyn, so

I’m beginning to invest in well-made pieces that are comfortable, functional, and aesthetically pleasing. For me, fast fashion is not as interesting or fulfilling as it once was. I’m not necessarily saying that everything should have a story. Everything should be precious. Everything should have some meaning. I know that there are black pants that I wear just because I like how they look and because they serve a function. You studied Art Semiotics at Brown University — is your degree in semiotics what made you want to connect fashion to storytelling in the way that you have?

How did you get people to open up about their Worn Stories ?

I asked them, “Do you have a garment that has a story connected to it or something memorable that happened while you were wearing it?” They pause and then talk about something that has been hanging in their closet or in a drawer for a while. They usually don’t wear it but also never really thought about why they can’t get rid of it. I ask

I think that it just gave me the foundation to look at the world the

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I don’t want to have the clutter of an apartment full of too many things. But I like having some of those older things around me because I wear them.

reason I have focused on clothing for these books is because everyone wears clothing. If you went halfway across the world, some of those stories and the clothing choices would be very different, and some of them would be similar. There are these universal themes that would just emerge. There are these sort of crazy only-in-New-York kinds of stories, and then there are stories that are kind of universal but happen to have happened in New York City.

Can we expect a sequel to Worn in New York?

I felt really confident in the choice to base this book in New York City, but I think if I chose to do another city, I would really want to spend some time figuring out the people there. The

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The Sky Inside By Claire Tisseyre

WATERCOLOR Isabel Holden

On the west side of the concourse, facing the stairs, a young married couple stands in front of a camera. The woman is holding the bottom of her dress, shuffling around in an attempt to find the perfect stance. Her husband’s arm sneaks around her waist, left hand resting on her hip, holding her close. People mill around, hurried steps resonating on the spotless floor—a polished, matte marble without any debris. The terminal is without scent, unexpected with the throng of people attempting to push their way through, while shoving morning pastries in their mouths and precariously holding onto coffee cups. On the ceiling, a constellation of stars shine as they would

in the night sky. Hiding in opposite corners are reminders of times past. A dark patch of cigarette residue remains from travelers uninterrupted by modern day restrictions. On the other side, a hole pierced by a rocket installation in 1957 displays the mightiness of the American military. A little girl comes running from Track 25 and trips over my feet. After apologizing profusely, she stands and turns towards the man accompanying her, saying, “Dad, do we have time to look at the sky?”

This place is bursting at the seams with fleeting moments: cries, laughs, fights, animated discussions, music, they all

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come together in a hum. It is a constant hum, like a white noise machine you would use to quiet an infant at night. A glow filters in from right above the stone columns, where a giant string of yellow-tinged electric lights makes a trail all the way around the main entrance, enveloping it in warm golden hues. In the middle of the concourse, on top of the information desk, the brass clock gives off a muted light. The softness, emanating peacefully, settles over the terminal, as if lingering in bed in the late afternoon, watching as the fading sun slowly floods the room. By 7:00 p.m., hundreds of people rush, push, shove, and throw apologies over their shoulders without ever looking back. An hour later, the crowd trickles out and everything is quiet; a calmness blanketing the terminal. There are still people around, but they appear less frazzled, not as hurried. Three men come to a stop, standing a few feet away from the information desk. They are hugging; this is not just a

slap on the back but a tight hug—the kind people give to loved ones before saying goodbye. They go their separate ways—one disappears through the shuttle passage, the other up the West Balcony stairs. When they are gone, and only then, the last man turns around, the sound of his footsteps fading as he returns to 42nd Street. We spend our days rushing mindlessly from one place to the next. Everything surrounding us inevitably gets filtered through the lens of our daily struggles. We remember our lives in flashes and instants, one followed by the next. A little girl stops to look at the sky, a passing smile brightens the day of a random person, friends saying goodbye make a stranger’s stomach clench with melancholy. A place is never just a floor, walls and a roof, built by humans for functional purposes and nothing else; a place is the keeper of moments.

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Reverie n . a state of being pleasantly lost in one’s thoughts; a daydream

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PHOTOGRAPHER Rachel Brennecke DESIGNER Chloe Kaye MODEL Caroline Guzman HAIR/MAKEUP M. Harris and Asari Duke

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PHOTOGRAPHER Rachel Brennecke DESIGNER Gina Cipriano MODEL Sabrina Perlleshi HAIR/MAKEUP Sabrina Perlleshi

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PHOTOGRAPHER Rachel Brennecke DESIGNER Ashley Svenningsen

MODEL (Left) Caroline Guzman, (Right) Sabrina Perlleshi HAIR/MAKEUP M. Harris, Asari Duke, and Sabrina Perlleshi

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PHOTOGRAPHER Rachel Brennecke DESIGNER Gina Cipriano MODEL Janine Tondu

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PHOTOGRAPHER Rachel Brennecke DESIGNER Gina Cipriano MODEL Nofar Avigdor HAIR/MAKEUP M. Harris and Asari Duke

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Artist, entrepreneur and lecturer, Veleta Vancza leads students in exploring in-house micro-manufacturing beginning with digitally designed, laser-cut, jewelry and accessories.

LEFT TO RIGHT Acrylic Cuffs by Isabella Biagioli, Janelle Arnold, Briar Connors, Leandra Perelli PHOTOGRAPHY Isabelle Hanke

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ADDITIONAL ACRYLIC WORK Veleta Vancza for Marist Fashion PHOTOGRAPHY Isabelle Hanke

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PHOTOGRAPHER Rachel Brennecke DESIGNER Allison Carolei MODEL Janine Tondu HAIR/MAKEUP M. Harris and Asari Duke

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PHOTOGRAPHER Rachel Brennecke DESIGNER Allison Carolei MODEL Nofar Avigdor HAIR/MAKEUP M. Harris and Asari Duke

RIGHT PHOTOGRAPHER Rachel Brennecke DESIGNER Cristel Costavalo MODEL (Left) Nofar Avigdor, (Right) Caroline Guzman HAIR/MAKEUP M. Harris and Asari Duke

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PHOTOGRAPHER Rachel Brennecke DESIGNER Gabrielle Amaturo MODEL Janine Tondu HAIR/MAKEUP M. Harris and Asari Duke

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Volume 5 69

SelveDge to SELVEDGE By Jacquelyn Kaiser and Staff

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PHOTOGRAPHER Alexandria Usak DESIGNER Melissa Armistead MODEL Sabrina Perlleshi HAIR AND MAKEUP Sabrina Perlleshi

Volume 5 71

PHOTOGRAPHER Alexandria Usak DESIGNER Melissa Armistead MODEL Sabrina Perlleshi HAIR AND MAKEUP Sabrina Perlleshi

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TECHNICAL FLATS Melissa Armistead

“Fashion is disposable, but it also repeats itself, so just don’t throw anything away,”—Tom Ford

We’re in the midst of renewed interest in “zero-waste” design, wherein patterns are meticulously crafted so that not a single scrap of fabric will be cut away and left behind. The term “zero-waste” emerged during the mid-1970s, and was masterfully practiced by Issey Miyake in his 80’s line, APOC. But zero waste has been the rule, rather than the exception, for most of human history. Clothing was first made from the skin and fur of prey, while weapons and tools were sculpted from the horns. When resources were scarce and the process of making goods by hand was slow, it’s absurd to imagine viewing anything useful as trash. But, with mass industrialization came surplus, and ultimately, waste. On average, 15 to 20 percent of the pre-consumer fabric used in the production of clothing contributes to our nation’s landfills. In the last 20 years alone, there has been a 53 percent increase in textile waste within the U.S., amounting to nearly 34.5 billion pounds.

It will take consumer awareness and the innovation of independent designers and larger companies to reverse this trend. Fortunately, this challenge is embraced by many, including Marist College Fashion student, Melissa Armistead. Fashion is driven by change, but sometimes, in order to make something “new,” we must reach back to the past. Her senior collection consists of highly engineered patterns that employ unique shapes, new silhouettes, and interactivity, using a fabric’s entire length and width, when possible. Because the goal of the “zero-waste” movement is to create a more sustainable fashion industry, work like Armistead’s must be widely shared, adapted, and reproduced. On the following pages are instructions for creating her one-size, “zero-waste,” Grounded Dress, which uses drawstrings throughout to control its length and shape.

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How-to make the Zero-Waste “Grounded Dress”: 1. Place pattern on tropical weight wool, wool crepe or cotton broadcloth measuring at least 51” in width by 71” in length. 11. Repeat this same process for both sides and both sleeves.

12. To insert the drawstrings, take the fabric, fold it in half, pin it and sew it at a quarter inch. Take the edge of the fabric and flip it inside out, creating the drawstrings. If you wish, tie a knot at the bottom. 13. Take the top edge and slide the drawstring through the channel, until it reaches the top opening of the channel. When at the top of the channel, tack it in place by topstitching, in order to secure the drawstring inside of the channel. Repeat this process for both sides.

2. Cut out the pattern, either before or after you have pinned it to the fabric

3. Separate all of the pieces.

4. Starting with the front of the dress, sew the front right and the front left pieces together along the seam, until you have reached the notch at the end. (This will later be where you add the drawstrings and the channels.) Next, attach the shoulder seams to the back piece. 5. Sew the dart at the shoulder seams. Press it and top stitch it down, so that the dart turns into a decorative pin tuck. 6. Sew the side seams of the dress. Starting at the notch (where the underarm of the dress begins) all the way down to the bottom of the dress. Press it. 7. For the two sleeve pieces, fold them in half and sew together up until the notch. Sew together until halfway down, where the vent begins. 8. Going back to the body of the garment: flip the sleeve right way out, put it inside the armhole and pin all the way around. Baste the sleeve in place on the inside and sew.

14. Repeat this same process for both sleeves, for a total of six drawstrings and channels.

15. Take the binding, starting with the front of the neckline, sew right side to right side, flip it under and press. Fold it under on the underside of the fabric, (so that you cannot see the raw edge). Baste in place (enclosing the seam, and creating a nice finish). Slip stitch this along the edge.

16. Repeat this process for each strip for each part of the neckline.

17. The keyhole also uses a binding. Sew together, right side to right side, flip it under, tuck under the raw edge, press it, pin and slip stitch it. You have now completed the neckline. 18. For the hems, (these instructions are for a two inch hem, but this can be adjusted for your desired length) fold up the hem two inches, pin it, fold it up one inch, and then fold it up another inch, press it and slip stitch it. Same process for the sleeves, but the hem will only be one inch for the sleeves. 19. To add optional pocket facings, go back to when we are sewing the body of the dress. Before sewing the side seam of the dress together, attach the pocket bags to the desired place. Sew them together as you sew the side seams.

9. You should now have the complete shell of the dress, with the front pieces, the back piece, and the sleeves.

10. To add the drawstring channels, start with the front drawstring channel fabric (at the bottom of the slit on the front body of the dress). Take these two channels and sew them together, right side to right side at half an inch, starting at the top of the vent and going all the way down to the bottom. Next, press the seam open, understitch and flip under. Move over half an inch and top stitch, in order to keep the channel in place.

Congratulations, you have just made a garment without wasting a scrap!

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For a downloadable PDF version of the Grounded Dress Pattern by Melissa Armistead, visit http://www.marist.edu/commarts/fashion/fashion_magazine and click the link. Thanks!

Volume 5 75

Jess X. Snow with Jia Sung “O Wind Take Me to My Country On Broadway in mid-town, is the three-story ArtBar Gallery, which wears Jess X. Snow’s “O Wind Take Me to My Country.” Inspired by the arduous journey of migrant women, the mural bears a portrait of Sudanese poet Safia Elhillo engulfed by violent waves and rowboats filled with liberty seekers, while swans in flight embody an innate freedom.

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by Caroline denoyer and staff

SmallTown StreetArt

Volume 5 77

Map of Kingston Street Art

Use this map to locate the following art pieces in the Small Town of Kingston, New York.

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Nestled halfway between New York City and Albany, the town of Kingston, New York has evolved since being the state’s first post-Revolutionary capital. Once burned to the ground by the British “Lobsterbacks,” this small community is now home to public art that enlivens the character of these historic structures. The annual O+ Festival offers complimentary healthcare to the international artists and musicians who have participated and painted large-scale murals throughout the town. Since its inception in 2010, 22 murals have “exchanged the medicine of art for the art of medicine.”

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Kimberly Kae “Bilancia”

In Kimberly Kae’s “Bilancia,” social divide comes in the form of two Chair-O-Planes and its riders. Muslim and Western women sit on seperate sets of swings, yet attempt to exchange cultural knowledge with one another.

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Volume 5 81

Geddes Jones-Paulson & Raudiel Sanudo “Untitled“ In “Untitled,” by artists Geddes Jones Paulsen and Radial Sanudo, this fantastical creature stands on Fair Street, taking inspiration from the Mexican flag. According to Aztec legend, the gods told the people they must build a city where an eagle was found devouring a serpent. Symbolizing deeply rooted Mexican heritage, the snakes finally escape the grasp of the domineering eagle.

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Ernest Shaw “Know Thyself”

“Know Thyself” by Ernest Shaw, located at the Schwenk Drive Parking Lot, depicts the history of African and African-Americans through the dynamic colors that evoke rhythm and movement. In order to combat the stereotypical, often degrading images of African people, Shaw uses his artwork as a platform to better understand and educate others about the Black experience.

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Lunar New Year, Mata Ruda, and Nanook “Anos De Soledad”

A woman stares into a compact mirror, and the Amazon stares back. A portrait of activist and Native Ecuadorian Nina Gualinga by artists Lunar New Year, Mata Ruda, and Nanook stands at 721 Broadway. Gualinga has dedicated her life to protecting the environment and indigenous rights of the Kichwa people in the Amazon. Aspects of her home country, from the livestock, people, and forestry, depict the land she is so desperate to protect.

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interview 03 Justin Moran

Writer and Digital Managing Editor of Paper Magazine

By Timothy Hafke

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At 23, Justin Moran has served as a fashion editor for Bullet , a trend columnist for Paper , a contributing writer for Nylon , content director for Nicopanda, and until recently, the digital managing editor of OUT.com. Justin established a digital safe space for LGBTQ+ members who face prejudice online and in the streets. By championing emerging queer talent, he strives to break the boundaries between sexual orientation and individuality. Today, Justin is back at Paper as the digital managing editor.

What makes a 23 year old, like you, qualified to be the digital managing editor of OUT ? I don’t believe in qualifications, I believe in really hard work and strong ideas. At this point in my life, I feel connected to youth culture in a way that older, more seasoned editors do not. I’m aggressively, obsessively, keeping up with what’s new and what’s next. Digital managing editors should be responsive, curious and ultimately eager to create culture, not simply follow it. To get to this point in your life, did you have to learn any lessons the hard way? You have to create your own opportunities. I wouldn’t have had a career in NYC while I was studying at college in Chicago if I didn’t use social media to my advantage. It makes the world smaller, and ultimately decreases the barriers to entry in any creative field. I don’t think you need to be obsessed with it, but I think you need to be smart.

How did you stand out and get found?

Good answer. So, you believe neutrality is as important to journalism today as it has always been? I believe neutrality is vital for reporters writing hard news, but I don’t think it is as important in entertainment media.Based on my voice, the subjects I choose, and my career trajectory, it’s clear where my politics lie and I’m not afraid of readers knowing that going into my work. Do you believe your job gives you the power to change the perceptions of the LGBTQ+ community? Should it? While I was at OUT , I never felt my role was to change perceptions of the LGBTQ+ community in the straight world. For me, it was about providing a visible platform to queers who felt overlooked in their own community. That was much more important than concerning myself with a straight audience. So, on the power of OUT , if society suddenly came to view all genders, races, and sexual orientations as equal, would OUT still be an important title? I suppose not. OUT initially developed as a voice for a community that was being ignored. Truthfully, I think LGBTQ+ narratives shouldn’t be segmented off with their own publication. Queer ideas are mainstream ideas and should be treated accordingly.

I wasn’t really “found.” I made a name for myself through strong original work. I had a point of view that was clearly defined and unlike many others; I was incredibly career driven at an early age. Now, we want to know who you follow. Can you name your top five favorite Instagram accounts? @PaperMagazine, @CrystalZapata, @Charlie_Chops, @MatieresFecales, and @BertieBertThePom In terms of traditional media, with so many titles ceasing print production, many believe that the magazine era is coming to an end. Do you think we should be trying to save it?

I believe that print is romantic, but not realistic.

What does ensure longevity and ongoing relevancy in the world of media? Is it only sensationalism? I don’t think sensationalism has longevity, but I think creating sensational projects with tact and substance will always be relevant.

What part did social media play in giving you a start?

Social media allowed me to follow industry people I’ve always admired, and ultimately connect with them to begin working together in real life.

ART Katelyn Beebe and Sarah Ditterline

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Do you think the community ever overlooks its own people? Are we currently too focused on fighting for one subcategory of the LGBTQ+ community? I think so, yes. The LGBTQ+ community is segregated from within, which I think is definitely an issue. I also think it’s rose-tinted to assume that all these people should be grouped into one like-minded community just because their gender identities and/or sexualities are considered other from mainstream society. Everyone is so different.

Is anyone safe anymore?

I don’t think I know enough to answer this. I want to say yes, but I’m sure the answer is no.

So, where do you think most queer individuals feel safest expressing themselves?

On the Internet.

You’re saying the Internet is an emotionally safe place?

Do you think queer folk are in more danger than they’ve ever been in?

I don’t think an emotionally safe place exists, but I think the Internet allows queers to openly express their ideas, thoughts, fears, dreams to an audience of like minded people.

I think queer people have been in danger for years, especially when you think back to unjust laws about dress codes and the AIDS epidemic, etc. So I’m not sure things are worse than they’ve been, but there is certainly newfound tolerance under Trump’s presidency for homophobia and transphobia, which could lead to dangerous situations.

Let’s end with five adjectives that you feel describe the future.

Referential, Matriarchal, Sexual, Queer, Concrete.

I mean, it’s 2018, are you ever afraid to walk home by yourself at night?

I can pass for the most part, so no. I’m more concerned about the safety of my friends who’re visibly queer or femme. I’m scared for my friends who are unsafe in Trump’s America.

“I don’t believe in qualifications, I believe in really hard work and strong ideas. At this point in my life, I feel connected to youth culture in a way that older, more seasoned editors do not. I’m aggressively, obsessively, keeping up with what’s new and what’s next. Digital managing editors should be responsive, curious and ultimately eager to create culture, not simply follow it.”

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