FEATURE
A RECIPE FOR SUCCESS
Melbourne is consistently ranked among the world’s great food cities. But it’s about more than what’s on the plate – it’s the atmosphere and energy. And nowhere brings that to life quite like Flemington.
WORDS CELIA PURDEY
T he tradition of eating well at the races has a long history. Long before The Birdcage became the social spectacle it is today, Melbourne society was hosting elaborate lunches under the elm trees on the front lawn, bringing their own maids, their own butlers, and their own silverware. By the 1890s, guests were wandering between parties in The Elms, joining several tables in an afternoon, and treating the racecourse as an extension of their dining rooms. The food was part of it, but the occasion was what really mattered. More than a century later, the occasion is still part of it. But the food is well and truly a focal point. Over the past decade, the VRC has built one of the most impressive hospitality programs in Australian sport. The Birdcage, once known mostly for its marquees and fashion, has increasingly become a place to eat well, reflecting the way Melbourne’s food scene has evolved.
collaborated in other years. Restaurant pop-ups have graced The Park, the front lawn and under The Elms, and the Members’ dining rooms have also played host to some of the best gourmands in the city. Flemington has often been one of the best places to eat in the country, especially during Cup Week. This makes sense when you understand Melbourne’s relationship with food. The city’s dining culture was transformed through waves of immigration in the seventies and eighties, when entrepreneurial newcomers opened restaurants and cafes serving food they wanted to eat. Melbourne’s food scene has grown into one of the best in the world, and it’s not just about fine dining. Some of the city’s best food is found in places that simply know how to do good food well. You don’t need to book the most expensive table in town to have a great meal in Melbourne. You just need to know where to look.
“Flemington has often been one of the best places to eat in the country, especially during Cup Week.”
Curtis Stone, the Ascot Vale-raised chef who built his reputation in Los Angeles and London, brought his Michelin-starred LA restaurant Gwen to The Birdcage in 2023, and a who’s-who of Melbourne’s best chefs and restaurants have
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