Sea, sand and swimming Although Naples is viewed by many as an exclusively urban destinati - on, the sea is an important part of city life. During the warmer mont - hs, the locals flock to the coast, and swimming in the sea is possible even in the city itself, particularly in the Po - sillipo quarter, which is considered one of Naples’ most beautiful distri - cts. Located there are small rocky outcrops, hidden sunbathing plat - forms and views that make it easy to forget that you are in a city of a milli - on inhabitants. The water is pleasan - tly warm during the summer, while the atmosphere is much more re - laxed than in fashionable resorts. For those seeking more tranquil be - aches and turquoise waters, the ne - arby islands are an excellent cho - ice. Capri is the most famous and is synonymous with glamour, whi - le Ischia entices with its hot springs and slower pace of life. Prochida, the smallest island in the bay, has beco - me a favourite among travellers see - king a more authentic experience of southern Italy. Of course, it is easy to travel from Naples to the famous Amalfi Coast, where towns are perc - hed on cliff edges and roads follow the sea like a picture postcard. But Amalfi is a story in itself... AMALFI - Where everything carries the fragrance of lemon Here the roads unwind slowly. Cur - ve by curve, view by view. And every time you think you’ve seen the most beautiful scene, the next one appe - ars: water in colours that seem unre - al, somewhere between cobalt and
turquoise, and a sea-scented dish of pasta alle vongole, with clams. This is la dolce vita, or simply the Amal - fi Coast! No, this isn’t a single destination or a single village, but rather a series of moments connected by a road that defies logic – narrow, winding and dramatic, stuck to the cliffs that rise above the sea. Driving that road is an experience in its own right: lemons literally hang above your head, the sun reflects off the rocks and the sal - ty air enters through open windows. Towns line up like photo frames, ea - ch with its own rhythm. Ravello is the first break from the co - ast. Situated high above the sea, its gardens seem to levitate and its villas still remember centuries of art and the summer breaks of the aristocra - cy. Everything in Praiano is tranqu - il, leisurely and more local, as this for - mer fishing village still preserves its authenticity. Then comes Positano, a veritable postcard that exists in reali - ty. Up or down are the only options in this cliffside village, or vertical city as the locals call it, where every balcony looks like it‘s out of a movie scene. And perhaps cinematography is itse - lf responsible for its reputation. Or li - terature. When John Steinbeck wrote about Positano for Harper‘s Bazaar
back in 1953, he didn’t try to explain it, rather he simply noted that it “bites deep”, or that it leaves a deep impres - sion. His favourite spot there was Le Sirenuse, a former private villa of the Sersale family that was opened to guests in the early 1950s. It is today one of the world’s most recognisa - ble hotels – not just because of the breathtaking view, but because of the feeling that you’re part of something old and elegant. Even if you only drop in for a cocktail, its terrace will rema - in etched in your memory. The most important activity he - re? Serving and patiently nurturing the appetite. Lunches start late and last for a long time. And dinners are even longer. The menu includes sim - ple dishes that depend on one rule: everything must be fresh. At La Ga - vitella, a restaurant and beach club perched above the sea, dishes co - me with views of Positano and Capri. Lobster pasta, caprese ravioli, a gla - ss of wine and hours of light conver - sation. The Pizza Bufalina at Crisci - to‘s is simple and perfect, and serves to prove that southern Italy is still this speciality’s true home. The atmosp - here is different at La Conca del So - gno: discreet luxury, with the sea re - aching almost to the tables and a guest list that has the paparazzi wai -
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