Naples is a city that doesn’t differen- tiate between the street and the kitc- hen, which is why sfogliatella was cre- ated as something to eat on the go. Its name means “little leaves”, in reference to the "hundreds" of layers of pastry that are stretched and folded until they form a fragile, almost breakable shell. The story of Neapolitan sfogliatella is a journey through time that’s rich in le- gends, traditions and tastes that ha- ve delighted generations. The exact ori- gins of sfogliatella remain a matter of debate, but many historians trace its ro- ots back to southern Italy during the 17 th century. The most commonly accepted theory attributes the creation of this pa- stry to the nuns of the Santa Rosa Mona- stery in Conca dei Marini, a small town on the Amalfi Coast. Legend has it that one nun who didn’t want to throw away ex- cess semolina added ricotta, dried fruit and sugar, before placing it all in a pastry
crust. This creation was later perfected and became known as Sfogliatella Santa Rosa, which is characterised by a crispy exterior and a rich, citrus-scented filling. Fast forward to the early 19 th century, when this pastry arrived in Naples thanks to local pastry chef Pasquale Pintauro. He discovered and modified the recipe, leading to the creation of the modern sfogliatella that was smaller and more affordable than its precursor. He opened a pastry shop in Via Toledo, one of Naples’ most famous streets, where sfogliatella gained im- mense popularity and must be tried. Sfogliatella today comes in two basic forms: the more traditio- nal Richa version, with thin, crispy layers of pastry that are ba- ked to golden perfection; and the Frolla version, which is a sof- ter and lighter option made with shortcrust pastry that offers a gentler bite. Both variations feature a signature semolina and ricotta filling, often flavoured with orange peel, cinnamon and candied fruit. Despite strong competition from French pa- stries in the 18 th and 19 th centuries, sfogliatella has remained a staple of Neapolitan cuisine. Once intended exclusively for members of the aristocracy and opera lovers, it gradually be- came a treat for the masses, loved by all social classes. Altho- ugh the classic sfogliatella recipe is still valued, modern varia- tions have appeared and this dessert can today be found filled with pistachio cream and chocolate, or even in savoury opti- ons filled with ricotta and sausage. However, there’s one ru- le that locals never break: sfogliatella must be eaten fresh, be- cause it loses the crunchy structure that forms its essence after just a few hours. Naples has other symbols of sweetness: babà al rum, a rum-soaked cake that arrived from France to become a local standard; and Pastiera Napoletana, an Easter tart with whe- at berries and ricotta cheese that has ritual status in this city. Still, sfogliatella remains the first and most direct contact with the Neapolitan mindset: hard on the outside, rich on the insi- de, and always on the move.
Kultno mesto za ovo iskustvo je „Pasticceria Pintauro“, mala radnja bez mesta za sedenje, gde se sfoljatela jede topla, odmah na trotoaru (slika je ilustrativna) The iconic spot to experience this speciality is Pasticceria Pintauro, a small shop with no seating, where warm sfogliatella is eaten on the pavement (the photo is illustrative)
Sweet dilemmas » Slatke muke | 87
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