RITAM SRBIJE / RHYTHM OF SERBIA
theatre, pharmacy and many other insti- tutions were established, without which a modern European state could not be imagined at the time. Thanks to this, it is today difficult to wander the city with- out coming across traces of that past. The Milošev Venac complex continues to preserve the atmosphere of the pe- riod when Serbia was shaped political- ly and culturally. A parliamentary as- sembly, Amidža’s Residence and the old church represent a kind of time machine through the tumultuous 19 th century. And yet, Kragujevac is much more than a city with a rich history. It has de- veloped into a modern university centre over recent decades, with a vibrant cul- tural scene, festivals, galleries and café- bars that give a completely different en- ergy to the city. A large city park, the urban oasis of Bubanj Lake, tailored pe- destrian zones and numerous restau- rants make this a city tailored to the modern traveller. Site of silence remembered by Serbia One of Kragujevac’s most important sites is certainly the Šumarice Memori- al Park October, which was built to me- morialise the victims of mass shootings carried out in October 1941, when the forces of German occupation gunned down thousands of civilians, including a large number of schoolchildren and their teachers. This memorial complex is today much more than a historical mon- ument. It is a space of silence, green- ery and memories; a place that is expe- rienced very personally by almost every visitor. The monument to the massacred pupils and teachers has become one of the most poignant symbols of Serbian suffering during World War II. Tale of kings and wine Just an hour’s drive from Kraguje- vac is Topola, a town that’s inextrica- bly linked to the Karađorđević dynasty and Serbian history. Rising high above the town is Oplenac – one of Serbia’s most beautiful and significant sites. The Church of St. George, an endowment of King Peter I Karađorđević, is known for the incredible mosaics that cover almost every part of its interior. They include more than 40 million pebbles that have been embedded into the walls to cre-
Flavours of Šumadija Šumadija is also known for its cui-
ate scenes inspired by Serbia’s medieval frescoes, creating a surreal church interi- or when it is illuminated by daylight. Oplenac also has a strong viticul- ture tradition. The vineyards surround- ing Topola have undergone a great re- naissance in recent years, which is why this area today attracts lovers of wine tourism from all over Europe. Local wine tasting tours, with views of Šu- madija’s rolling hills and an easy-going pace of life, make this part of Serbia an ideal choice for a weekend break. Monasteries among the forests Šumadija has for centuries been a haven for monasteries and centres of spirituality. Vraćevšnica Monas- tery, located deep in a tranquil forest, is considered one of the most beauti- ful monasteries in this part of Serbia. Also located in the area are the mon- asteries of Drača, Nikolje and Blagov- eštenje, while there are also the numer- ous shrines of the Ovčar-Kablar Gorge, which is often referred to as the “Ser- bian Holy Mountain”. The area around Čačak has a special atmosphere, where nature and spirituality intertwine al- most imperceptibly. Ovčar and Kablar, which are separated by the meander- ing course of the Western Morava Riv- er, hide monasteries located beside the river or perched high on the rocks. The views from the area’s observation plat- forms are among the most beautiful in central Serbia.
sine. Here people still take their time and eat slowly. The traditional cuisine is based on simple, local ingredients: kam- jak milk curd, homemade cheeses, corn- bread, stuffed cabbage rolls, podvarak (sauerkraut casserole) and the inevita- ble roast meats. However, ever more res- taurants have been combining tradition- al recipes with a modern approach over recent years, which is why it isn’t unusu- al to come across fine dining versions of the traditional dishes of Šumadija. A spe- cial place is held by the local wines of the Topola region, but also plum and quince rakia brandies, as well as homemade juic- es and the produce of local farms. For lov- ers of slower travel, the food on offer is one of the best reasons to spend longer in Šumadija than you might have planned. Serbia in miniature Šumadija might not have a seaside or the kind of spectacular scenery seen on postcards, but it does have a strongly appealing sense of authenticity. This ar- ea’s history isn’t confined to museums, but rather lives through its cities, people, customs and landscapes. From Kraguje- vac and its historical importance, via the regal Oplenac and monasteries hidden among the hills, to the aroma of local cui- sine and the rolling greenery of central Serbia, Šumadija is a place that entices people to return, because nothing like it exists anywhere else...
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