RITAM SRBIJE / RHYTHM OF SERBIA
Service and endurance Slava requires incredible endurance. Real, traditional hosts don’t even sit down at all that day. They remain on their feet, ensuring each guest’s glass is full, offering food and serving those present. This is the ultimate act of respect towards both the guest and the saint. On the other hand, endurance is also required from the guests. On November days, when half of Serbia is celebrating Slava and the other half is attending those celebrations, you might have to visit three or four houses in one day. That means four servings of žito, four feasts and four toasts. Such a tempo re- quires serious logistics and high spirits. When the guests finally leave and the candle burns out, all that remains is the essence. In a world that’s advancing unre- lentingly, with communication conduct- ed through screens and time constantly speeding up, the Serbian Slava remains as an anchor. It is the one day of the year when phones falls silent as the family gath- ers around a loaf of consecrated bread and when – at least for a few hours – one can feel the unbroken thread connecting those who were, those who are, and those who are yet to come. So, if you’re flying to Bel- grade in November, be hopeful that some- one you come across will invite you to a Slava. Even though guests aren’t invited to Slava...
tian saints. This is how Slava emerged, as a unique tradition that – across the en- tire Christian Orthodox world – is nur- tured in this way almost exclusively by Serbs. Passed down through a family’s male line, from father to son, daughters retain their family Slava until they get married, when they begin commemorating their husband’s Slava. One of the most important unwrit- ten rules is: “You don’t invite guests to Sla- va”. The host doesn’t send invitations. It is known who the godparents, friends and relatives are, while the door of the house remains unlocked to all well-wishers on that day. Guests arrive for Slava with a simple gift, usually a bottle of good wine, coffee or something sweet, but the great- est gift is actually their presence. November is the month when the rhythm of Slava peaks. It begins with Mi- trovdan (8 th November), a holiday dedi- cated to Saint Demetrius of Thessaloni- ki and known popularly as the day when bandits retreat to their hiding places be- fore winter. Next comes Đurđić (Saint George – 16 th November), which is fol- lowed by one of the most popular Slava holidays of the year: Aranđelovdan (21 st November), dedicated to the Holy Arch- angel Michael. When you arrive at a Slava, you are greeted at the door by the host. Before you
take a seat, approach the Slava table where a large wax candle is burning. There’s also the Slava cake, a masterfully crafted bread loaf that’s decorated with braids, birds, Christian symbols etc, and soaked at the corners with a little red wine. The hostess first serves you žito (ground wheat mixed with walnuts and sugar). Before entering the living room, you take a teaspoon of ži- to, cross yourself, congratulate the Slava hosts and eat the wheat speciality. Then begins the gastronomic mara- thon. The Slava spread is like a carefully orchestrated symphony in four acts. The first act is meze – an extravagant arrange- ment of cured ham, spicy kulen sausage, milk curd, ajvar chutney and cheese. This is a trap for the uninitiated, as the meze can fill you up before the feast actually be- gins. The second act is soup or veal stew, warm and invigorating, while the third act is the ultimate queen of the autumn spread: Sarma (stuffed cabbage leaves), which has simmered for hours over a low heat and contains smoked ribs and ba- con. And just when you think you’re so stuffed you can no longer even breathe, the fourth act arrives in the form of roast meat. It is usually hot pork or lamb, toped with perfectly crispy skin. The curtain on- ly comes down with coffee and small Slava cakes: vanilla cookies, bajadera cake and pink wafer cakes.
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