SCHELLING SALON Billiards, Iskra and Buddenbrooks At the very heart of Mu-
nich’s bohemian quarter of Schwabing, at 54 Schelling- strasse, the Schelling Salon stands proudly. Opened in 1872, this café-restaurant hasn’t changed a bit of its wood panelling and robust authen- ticity. The menu remains the same, offering hearty Bavari- an fare: Wiener schnitzel, gou- lash and smoked trout. It was
Tomas Man Thomas Mann
KAFE LUITPOLD Raskoš i „Plavi jahač“ Ako „Šeling“ salon predstavlja bo- emski andergraund, „Kafe Luitpold“ u ekskluzivnoj Briner ulici predstavlja ap- solutni vrhunac aristokratskog Minhena. Kada je otvoren 1888. godine, bio je naj- veći kafe u Evropi. Njegov uticaj na svet- sku umetnost je nemerljiv, jer su upravo za ovim stolovima, 1911. godine, slikari Vasilij Kandinski i Paul Kle zvanično osno- vali grupu „Plavi jahač“. Ova umetnička grupa razbila je tradicionalne forme i uve- la svet u moderni ekspresionizam. Dok su pili kafu, raspravljali su o tome kako boje ne treba da prate realnost, već unu- trašnju emociju. Iako je kafe oštećen u
here that the young Thomas Mann, who had just moved to Munich, found an escape from his strict northern upbringing. Although he often complained about the city’s laidback, southern mentality, it was here, order- ing his favourite Bavarian dumplings, that Mann found the discipline to shape his first masterpiece: the novel Buddenbrooks (published in 1901). His observation of the salon’s guests spilled over directly into his complex character studies. In parallel with Mann, during the period from 1900 to 1902, one regular guest of the salon was a man who introduced himself to the waiters as Mr Meyer. His re- al name was Vladimir Ilyich Lenin. And he didn’t come just for the food. The Schelling Salon was a heavily guard- ed base where he met with Russian émigrés and social democrats. It was from Munich and this café that Lenin coordinated the printing and distribution of Iskra, the illegal Marxist newspaper that laid the ideological foun- dations for the Russian Revolution. When he wasn’t plan- ning the overthrow of the empire, Lenin was a passion- ate billiard player. You can still play on those same tables today (the lounge even has its own small billiard muse- um that’s open on Sundays).
Vasilij Kandinski Wassily Kandinsky
ratu, pažljivo je rekonstruisan. Danas se na prvom spratu nala- zi i mali muzej posvećen istoriji lokala, a poseta nije kompletna bez naručivanja princregent torte – čuvenog bavarskog deserta od osam slojeva čokolade i biskvita, koji simbolizuje osam isto- rijskih bavarskih okruga.
CAFÉ LUITPOLD
Opulence and The Blue Rider If Schelling Salon represents the bohemian underground, Café Luitpold, located in the exclusive Brienner Street, represents the absolute pinnacle of aristocratic Munich. When it opened in 1888, it was Europe’s largest café. Its influence on world art is immeasur- able, because it was at these tables, in 1911, that painters Wassily Kandinsky and Franz Marc officially founded the Blue Rider group. This artistic group broke with traditional forms and introduced the world to modern expressionism. While drinking coffee, they dis- cussed how colours shouldn’t necessarily adhere to reality, but rath- er inner emotion. Although the café was damaged during WWII, it was carefully reconstructed. Its first floor today also houses a small museum dedicated to the history of the place, and a visit isn’t com- plete without ordering Prinzregententorte – the famous Bavarian dessert composed of eight layers of chocolate cream and sponge cake, symbolising the Kingdom of Bavaria’s eight historical districts.
Kuće u Minhenu u kojima je živeo Lenjin i redakcija lista „Iskra“ Houses in Munich where Lenin lived and the editorial office of the newspaper “Iskra”
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