The fashion magazine at Marist
measure The Fashion Magazin at Marist
What is fashion in a NewWorld? Vol. VIII
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mea
Measure Magazine
asure Measure is not only the new name of our magazine; the word is our new standard. An essential aspect of fashion design, to “measure” — literally and figuratively — is to assess what you’re doing right now in relation to how it will impact the future. Measure seeks to celebrate the joy of creative collaboration while simultaneously analyzing the impact of our actions on this earth. After an unprecedented year, we find ourselves inspired by the words of Martin Luther King Jr: “The ultimate measure of a man is not where he stands in moments of comfort and convenience, but where he stands at times of challenge and controversy.” We believe the same is true of women. Through examinations of our interactions, a realistic look at the changing climate and a commitment to social justice, we seek to provide new visions of possibility and progress at Marist. The measure of our collective voice is multi-faceted; it speaks volumes, leaving room for growth into the future we are creating. As we return to a world closer to the one we once knew, we seek to craft a new narrative that combines fashion with responsibility, inclusivity and diversity, to pave the way for a brighter tomorrow.
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Cover Image Credits: Photographer:Julia Feigus Model: Kaylin Moss Designer: Kristine Otero Hair and Makeup: Chaiyah Chambers
Back Cover Image Credits: Model: Salama Doucouré Designer: Julia Lipari
Hair: Chaiyah Chambers Makeup: Tayaba Tasnin
46 ONE DAY WE WILL DANCE AGAIN 56 AMUSE ME 62 SNAP OUT OF IT 68 INTERGALACTIC POOL PARTY 74 CONTENT CREATIVE 78 KAYLIN’S CODE: COVER FEATURE 82 STILL I RISE 88 FIELD OF DREAMS 96 A LESSON IN GRIEF 102 HOW DO WE MEASURE UP?
08 BEST OF STUDENT PHOTOGRAPHY 10 MEET JOHN BARTLETT 14 HALFTIME 24 DEAR 2020 32 HAPPY CAMPER 40 FIX IT. PROFILE OF BRANDICE DANIEL
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CONTRIBUTORS UNMUTED PLAYLIST REVIVAL Created By: Measure Magazine Staff 33 Songs, 2hrs 9min
...
FOLLOWERS
PLAY
2021
SCAN ON SPOTIFY TO LISTEN
ARTIST
TITLE
ADDED BY
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
* Julia Meyer
A Change is Gonna Come
Aretha Franklin
* Nora Hogerty * Charlotte Martin * Juneve Porciello * Amanda Lauro
Give Me Love
George Harrison
Dog Days Are Over
Florence + The Machine
Brand New
Ben Rector
Genesis
Grimes
Feeling Good
Nina Simone
Eduardo Vega-Salvador
Look How Far We’ve Come
Quinn XCII
Ashleigh Eden
Taylor Swift
happiness
Jaime Schaus
Dancing in the Moonlight
Toploader
Marika Shively
Oh, What A World
Marley Gifford
Kacey Musgraves
Good Life
OneRepublic
Olivia Murphy
BANNERS
Someone to You
Lauren Schottenfeld
Bloom
bLAck pARty
Vanessa Shepherd
Starting Over
Chris Stapleton
Nicole Sullivan
Lush Life
Zara Larsson
Molly Griffin
Vienna
Billy Joel
Ava Caruso Deanna McNally
Mr. Blue Sky
Electric Light Orchestra
Measure’s teams are divided according to each student’s passions and skills. However, Measure’s creatives are unified by the inspiration of constructing both a beautiful magazine and a progressive world. All teams were assembled with members who shared their talents to contribute to the goal of Measure, but change is a universal effort. Below, each member of the staff contributed a song that speaks to them. We hope this playlist will motivate listeners to create and embrace beauty in our new world. Scan the QR code to the right to become an insider within our collective consciousness. + Fashion: The visual visionaries: photoshoots, creative direction, and styling. Lead by Julia Meyer, the curator behind the fashion concepts. + Digital Marketing: The promoters, collectors andmakers of digital assets. Guided by Charlotte Martin, the brains behind the digital. + Art: The blueprint between the binding typography, color schemes, and layout. Directed by Amanda Lauro, the artistry behind the pages. + Editorial: The connoisseurs of all things language: captions, grammar, and storytelling. Organized by Nora Hogerty, the editor behind the written. + Production: Thecontrol center.OrchestratedbyJunevePorciello, theplanner behindtheunexpected.
TITLE
ARTIST
ADDED BY
+ + + + + + + + + + + + + + + +
Sweet Disposition
The Temper Trap
Cameron Riordan
Here Comes The Sun
Kelly Quinn
The Beatles
Sunflower Vol. 6
Alexandria Jimenez
Harry Styles
Bird Set Free
Abbey Kofeldt
Sia
Good Days
SZA
Bianca Vogelsberg
mirrorball
Kerri DiSalvatore
Taylor Swift
Shotgun
George Ezra
Bridget Bellew
The 1975
It’s Not Living
Ava Salerno
Stay Next to Me
Quinn XCII
Alexis Vucci
Maria Dramatenos
Tears For Fears
Everybody Wants To Rule The World
Go Outside
Cults
Olivia Cole
Unwritten
Natasha Bedingfield
Lauren Martelli
alive
ROLE MODEL
Elizabeth Von Seggern
Giant
Calvin Harris
Isabelle Cavallo
Where is the Love?
Black Eyed Peas
Alicia Giordano
8TEEN
Khalid
Julia Grillo
Printer:
Faculty Advisor:
Support:
Kimberly Cutter
DCC Digital Color Concepts 256 Sheffield St, Mountainside, NJ 07092 info@dccnyc.com
James Snyder John Bartlett Ellie Heinzinger DooRi Chung Sonia Roy Jennifer Finn
Collaborators:
Harry Bahrenburg Roman Katona Brooke Wainwright Kennedy Roller Bobby Oliver Maisie Kane Julia Feigus Juneve Porciello Nora Hogerty Lidya Seze Caitlin Blenclowe Alicia Giordano Ashleigh Eden Kerri DiSalvatore Olivia Cole Emily Less Marley Gifford Vanessa Shepherd Sydney Kysar
Publisher:
Vanderbilt Mansion Darren McCormack Tim Murray Zachary Harkenrider John DeBard
Marist College 3399 North Rd, Poughkeepsie, NY 12601 academic.affairs@marist.edu @measuremag.marist
Copyright:
All content included in Measure is subject tocopyright; nopart of this magazine may be reproduced without the consent of the Marist Fashion Program.
Content & Editorial Policies
All content produced between the managing teams (fashion, digital marketing, art, editorial and production) has been generated in the minds of students at Marist College, unless otherwise noted. Under the guidance of the academic advisor, Kimberly Cutter, the students in the Fashion Magazine Production course seek to manifest a concept and bring it to fruition.
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Photographer: Harry Bahrenburg Model: Loren Spence Designer: Caitlin Magrane Hair: Kristina Villanti Makeup: Chaiyah Chambers
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THE
BEST
Marist College serves as an incubator for creativity. Here we showcase the best of student photography and the imaginations that lie within the lens of our peer visionaries.
OF STUDENT P H O T O G R A P H y
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“ This photo features my father Chris in our bathroom at home. The shot was created to show the consumer perspective of over-consumption culture in the modern fashion industry. The bathtub symbolizes this idea with the overflowing number of shoes. The cleanliness of a bathroom against the dirty pollution associated with fast fashion provides irony in the shot.” Roman Katona ‘24
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John Meet
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Bartlett Interviewed By: Alicia Giordano
It was a catalyst moment. The designer’s name would go on to be sewn into clothing labels, yelled at his fashion shows, and peppered across fashion magazines as he became known for his gender- bending, subculture-referencing, fantasy-building designs that were all the rage in 1990’s New York. Bartlett’s smart designs (the fruit of a master’s from Harvard and a degree in tailoring from the Fashion Institute of Technology) carried his namesake label into the sales windows of Barneys, Bergdorf Goodman, Henri Bendel and his own stand alone store in New York City’s artistic West Village. Throughout his creative career, Bartlett also earned two Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) awards: “Swarovski Best Newcomer Award” and “Best Menswear Designer of the Year.” But these days, the highschool-rebel-turned-fashion- entrepreneur has a different cause to fight for: sustainability education. Throughout Bartlett’s career, sustainability has changed. The word has gone through stages of obscurity, surviving on the outskirts of the fashion industry, before achieving acceptance as an essential aspect of the mainstream in recent years. But through it all, Bartlett has been watching and incorporating ideas of bettering the planet into his work. “I was exposed to so many different types of products, price-points and markets.” says Bartlett, who joined Marist’s faculty in the fall of 2020 “I also had the great experience of being involved with fashion shows, magazines and stylists. But the industry is due for change.”
An Interview with Marist’s New Fashion Director
John Bartlett twisted a necktie, buttoned a cuff, and popped a collar without realizing that fashion would one day be his life. Within the boundaries of his Catholic high school, a young Bartlett first felt inspired by the concept of fashion. His uniform needed an attitude adjustment, and so Bartlett had his first experience with personal style.
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AG: How do you define sustainability? JB: “Initially when I thought about sustainability, I thought about the materials. When I was working in the 90’s, it was about using the most expensive materials: merino wools, calfskin leathers and animal furs. It involved too many animal-based and animal- derived fabrications. Now, we have all of these studies on animal agriculture and the damage that it brings to the earth; so much environmental damage is coming from agriculture. I tackled this issue by moving into plant- based fabrics and recycled textiles within my designs. But then my idea of sustainability grew. Past materials, even more damage is being done. The supply chain is a big issue in the fashion industry, but now people are calling for transparency. People want to know what has happened to their clothing before putting it on their body.” AG: Can you tell us a little bit about the Lexus/CFDA Eco-Challenge Grant that you received in 2012? JB: “I received a grant that was based on creating collections and businesses that celebrated sustainability. I created a sustainability collection and showed it during New York Fashion Week where I was able to use upcycled fabrics, organic cotton and recycled plastic in my designs. I had also become a vegan a little bit before this. I loved the idea that I could find different ways to manufacture luxury.” AG: Do you think fast fashion brands will ever be considered sustainable? JB: “I think that they will. Many different [fashion] brands are now at the forefront on how to recycle, donate and drop-off clothing so that garments don’t end up in a landfill. The fast fashion companies are even starting to try to find new materials that are more earth- friendly. These big companies have a lot of responsibility because they are creating so many products. They can hire the smartest people and bring in scientists to work alongside the creative designers and merchandisers.” Q
AG: Where do you see Marist and sustainability intersecting? B: “I would like to bring in sustainability as part of the education in all courses. It is going to become more and more important in merchandising, product development, promotion and design. There is more of a collaboration between science and creativity than ever before. Off our campus, I think there are so many wonderful artisans and designers that have left the city and a lot of them have come into the Hudson Valley. This is the time for a renaissance of art, manufacturing and ethical consumption. I hope to bring that same energy to Marist.”
AG: Which sustainable brands inspire you the most? JB: “I have always been inspired by Patagonia; they are one of the original brands using recycled fabrics and upcycling fabrics. They even tell their customers to not buy anything new, instead they encourage people to wear what they have. Another brand I have recently been inspired by is Pangaia. The brand is from England and they are really at the forefront of technology. They do gym shoes out of grape leather and even a new coat called “FLWRDWN,” which is entirelymade out of flowers. These designs are not crunchy; they are super forward and right on the mark. The last brand I would like to mention is Save the Duck. Save the Duck manufactures outerwear and alternative winter clothing, and their whole premise is about being sustainable and cruelty- free.”
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AG: What was your introduction to shopping second hand? JB: “When I was 16 and got my driver’s license, I drove to The Salvation Army and started buying a bunch of old military clothing. All throughout my early 20s, I shopped at thrift stores, and I loved it because you could buy so much stuff and experiment with the garments by cutting them up and remaking things. I love going into any vintage shop because you learn so much about the history of garments.” AG: How do you feel the pandemic has influenced sustainability? JB: “When the pandemic hit, everything stopped. Larger companies had supply chains that just collapsed. Consumers also gained a new interest in finding brands that were more transparent, brands that were open about how and where their garments were made. The pandemic has brought sustainability, human rights and the environment to the surface. We don’t want the same things anymore.”
d
AG: Tell us about your nonprofit, The Tiny Tim Rescue Fund.
AG: What advice would you give your 20-year-old self? JB: “What I would say is to meet as many people as you can, and to trust the process. To me, it’s about being in the moment and staying in the present. I know everyone is so scared about what they are going to do after college, but it is all going to work out. I do believe on a spiritual level, we are in this period for a particular reason, and that the world will provide for us. Try to take stock in every day, live in the moment and appreciate your family and friends.” • JB: “I adopted a dog named Tiny Tim from the North Shore Animal League Rescue in Long Island, N.Y. I originally wanted to adopt a small dog that I could bring on business trips with me, but when I got to the shelter, the first dog that I saw was this three-legged pit-bull mix named Tiny Tim. He was found on the side of the road after being hit by a car, and they had amputated his leg on Christmas Eve. When I got to the shelter three months later, he was just sitting in the corner while all the other dogs were jumping on me, and it was love at first sight. He inspired me to learn about adopting and rescuing animals. When he died, I started volunteering at the City Shelter in Harlem, where I realized that although I was not able to adopt every animal, I could raise money for rescue groups. Through this, I founded the Tiny Tim Rescue Fund and with Tiny Tim’s logo, I started to sell t-shirts, tote bags, and ultimately developed a whole line of products that were sold in my store and online. This raised money for all independent rescue groups. Our funds were used for vet bills, boarding, training and/or transportation.” A 13 Vol. VIII
Halftime PHOTOGRAPHY BY: BROOKE WAINWRIGHT
Model: Skyler Caruso Designer: Jenna Mitarotonda Hair & Makeup: Chaiyah Chambers
There is a distinct line between style and athleticism, and it is settled here. At themeeting point between function and fashion, we play into vivid color blocking, slick red outerwear and linear graphics. Within the interlockings of plaid and cable knit we discover a reinvented sanctuary of style. This is where fashion and athleticism coexist.
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Model: Elizabeth Franz Designer: Marisa Geisler Hair & Makeup: Chaiyah Chambers
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Model: Skyler Caruso Designer: Nicole Sgobba Hair & Makeup: Chaiyah Chambe rs
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Model: Skyler Caruso (Left) Elizabeth Franz (Right) Designer: Marisa Geisler Hair & Makeup: Chaiyah Chambe rs
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Model: Skyler Caruso Designer: Nicole Sgobba Hair & Makeup: Chaiyah Chambe rs
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Model: Trebor Carino Designer: Alexa Gillert Hair & Makeup: Chaiyah Chambers
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Model: Elizabeth Franz Designer: Lauren Schottenfeld Hair & Makeup: Chaiyah Chambe rs
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An Open Letter by Juneve Porciello
Dear 2020, As a typical change-hating Taurus, trying to accept you for all your twists and turns was far from easy. For as long as I can remember, I have had my life planned out, down to the second. “Going with the flow” was something that I never knew how to do. At five-years-old, I was storming around the house in my mom’s Prada heels that were six sizes too big, insisting on planning my own birthday parties. Since then, I have never done anything without a plan or schedule. “Everything happens for a reason” was a foreign phrase I had no intention of learning. Fast forward to college: I was a sorority president, busy with a full class schedule, extracurriculars, a part-time job and somehow even managed to have a personal life. All aspects of my existence were thoroughly calculated and organized. Every moving part of my life, ordered and in sequence. Truly, I had no intentions of slowing down, nor did I know how… until you forced me. March 2020, the world began to murmur with rumors about the coronavirus, which didn’t seem to affect me. But what began as a temporary pause from school, work, responsibilities and daily routines soon morphed into a complete disruption of life as I knew it. I was upset about the havoc you unleashed on the prearranged plans I had thoroughly organized. I found myself back home, living in my parents’ house. Somehow, my weekend uniform transitioned from leather pants and a crop top to an oversized sweatshirt and mismatched sweatpants. Every day I woke up stuck in a cycle, reliving a never-ending Monday. The days all began to blend together; toilet paper was considered currency; bleach dyeing old clothes was the only trend that Vogue was keeping up with, and Doja Cat’s “Say So” was morphing into our new national anthem. During the week, I tried to find a quiet space somewhere in my house to attend college remotely on Zoom. Privacy was virtually impossible with a twin sister, an 100-pound dog, an Italian father, Wi-Fi that never seemed to work, and a mother who took home improvement projects to another level. Things were far from normal and definitely not following my life plan. 2020, you began to test my patience, but I was still optimistic that things would go back to normal by the start of my last year of college. Senior year had existed in my head as a time to be consumed with nights that end at 5 a.m., fleeting chances to find love across a crowded bar, running around a campus bustling with students and getting the full “senior experience.” Yet when I returned in the fall, I found my beloved campus had lost its luster, its sense of community and the electricity that made it feel like home. This was our last chance to have fun before grown-up reality set in. It is unsettling to think that I may not even walk across the graduation stage; I can’t help but feel numb, almost as if I am not graduating at all. 2020, you were relentless. You forced me to feel pain, growth and all the moments inbetween.
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Walking across the stage or going out with friends one more time seems so trivial at a time when we have witnessed some of this country’s deepest flaws bubble to the surface. Every day, we have watched the death toll rise as our hopes and spirits fall further. I still cannot help but feel heartbroken. But while it is so much easier to feel defeated and dwell on spending my 21st birthday in quarantine, I want to remember this year much differently. I want to feel proud for reframing a situation that seemed impossible to tackle. 2020, you have invoked a vast range of emotions in me. From the girl who never knew how to slow down, I realize I have a lot to say thank you for. Even though you were not formally invited, I have found there to be a good side to you. You have challenged me to wake up in the middle of the night and find peace in the stillness. I am never going to determine how or why certain things happen, or be able to ensure my future is faultless. Rather than searching for the answers, I have learned how to find pleasure within the unknown. I have learned to accept there will be days that are far from clean- cut, weeks that will not make sense, and months where I do not have control. That is okay. 2020 you were an overdue lesson rather than a beautiful story. You were not the year I wanted, but you were the year I needed. You were so painful and forced me to grow in ways I never thought possible. You showed me how to embrace the person I am becoming, and how to find happiness in the little things. I started to look forward to bike riding in 40-degree weather, strenuous at- home workouts, failed TikTok recipes, dressing up to go to the grocery store, binge-watching Netflix series with my family and being okay with being alone. You allowed me to reintroduce myself to my potential and helped me find my worth. You reminded me what I am truly passionate about. Most importantly, you taught me that happiness can be found in small, quiet and unplanned moments. In late-night games of Monopoly, I found childlike contentment. In talkative family dinners, I found an unbreakable connection. In the quiet space within my head, I found a person I was proud of. To let life happen is to relinquish control—to step back and accept what is. 2020, this is my official goodbye. When I originally reflected back on you, my mind automatically went to the negative. When I thought more deeply about my time with you, I was reminded of what it means to be present. It’s not just about physically being in a setting or place, but slowing down and being present within myself. In the midst of overscheduling every aspect of my once thoroughly organized life, I had lost sight of the things that truly mattered. Endings are something I feared the most; but I am ready to let go. Although the unknown is daunting, there is also something exciting and alluring about it. I now know I am never going to perfect my life, because it is something that was never meant to be perfected. Thank you 2020, for giving me the gift that I can open every day for the rest of my life. 2021, I am all yours, and I am leaving more open spaces in my calendar.
All the best,
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THE
BEST
OF STUDENT P H O T O G R A P H y
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Kennedy Roller ‘24
“I spent two weeks at a summer camp in Maine, where I took art classes and met other creatives. Everyone from this camp was living in an old hotel, so one night, we got dressed up after the camp counselors went to bed. We decided that my friend Jack was the best model, so the entire camp began photographing him with our digital cameras.”
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“Strangely, there were two Jacks at the art camp where I took this picture. Jack and Jack were polar opposites of each other. Jack, in the photo, started posing in a bathtub. There were about seven people crammed into one bathroom, some standing on top of the toilet and some sliding off the sink. Right as I snapped this picture, another friend of mine shouted, ‘Jack is the better Jack.’ We all burst out laughing.”
Kennedy Roller ‘24
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F ashion and mental health: two terms you would not consider linked. For a long time, that’s what I thought too. I would never expect something as simple as my love for fashion to help me cope with the chemical imbalance in my brain, but it turns out fashion holds an overwhelming amount of power over our emotions. For me, that power resides in an uncomplicated, confidence-boosting, candy-colored sweatsuit from the brand Madhappy. Madhappy launched in 2017 with the intention of creating a de-stigmatized conversation around mental health. From high-quality streetwear collections to mental health resources, this brand creates a community centered around sparking optimism. Madhappy is known for their colorful, relaxed loungewear that is equal parts comfortable and chic. In 2020, Madhappy responded to the pain of the pandemic by expanding their mental health efforts. They created a formal mental health resource and blog titled “The Local Optimist.” The blog consists of stories, interviews, toolkits and playlists that offer a sense of inspiration and hope to the Madhappy community. Meadowlark Monaghan, Head of Mental Health at Madhappy, is the mind behind cultivating the community of “The Local Optimist.”
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AE: What initially inspired you to work with Madhappy? MM: “I had never seen a brand have a mission focused solely on mental health, and that completely invigorated and inspired me. I have been scouring the Internet for years trying to find anyone who was willing to openly and honestly talk about mental health, and make it coolto do so–Madhappy was the first brand I found. I knew from there, it would be a dream to work on this mental health mission together.” AE: Can you tell us a little bit about “The Local Optimist” and its connection to Madhappy? MM: “Madhappy’s mission is to make the world a more optimistic place and to create a conversation around mental health. ‘The Local Optimist’ is Madhappy’s mental health resource and blog to do just that. It’s where anything and everything mental health-driven stems from. We conduct interviews, host events (formerly in person, now virtually), report stories, make toolkits, all surrounding mental health and wellness. We also have our own Local Optimist Hotline! W e created the hotline to offer a free peer support and referral texting service to our community. We provide general information on mental health topics, guide people towards great resources, give encouragement and provide an empathetic ear.” AE: What would you say the goal of “The Local Optimist” is? MM: “The goal of ‘The Local Optimist’ is to raise awareness, educate, provide resources and uplift the community.” AE: How do you see “The Local Optimist” expanding in the future? MM: “‘The Local Optimist’ is just 1-year-old! We’ve already grown somuchwithin a year, but we are really enjoying this time because we get to be experimental in how we expand. Our team loves to try out new and unique ways to connect with our community and find overlaps within our everyday lives and our mental wellness. We have some great things coming in the future. ‘The Local Optimist’ is working on even more playlists, movie recommendations and toolkits to better our community further.” AE: How do you think we can work on prioritizing mental health in the fashion industry? MM: “I truly believe fashion can be used as a wellness tool and that brands are just starting to uncover this as mental health became much less stigmatized over this past year. From digital campaigns to partnering with professionals, to creating garments that are more body and gender inclusive–there are endless possibilities for the overlap of fashion and mental health. Particularly now in a time where brands and influencers have such a large influence over our culture, those leading the way uplift the greater community. They help create future generations of people who want more than something ‘cool.’” •
Find Madhappy at @madhappy on Instagram.
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THE
BEST
OF STUDENT P H O T O G R A P H y
“This is Dancing Hands Jewelry, a jewelry store located on Main Street in New Paltz, N.Y. I see lots of character in this image, from the way the building meets the street at a dramatic angle, but also I see it within the contrast of the mural against the white section with black shutters. It really feels like a mix of old and new coming together.” An Ode to the Hudson Valley BY: bobby oliver ‘21
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“This image was taken during fall of 2020 and features both drops of the Kaaterskill Falls in the Catskill Mountains of New York. This was a busy day at the falls, allowing me to take a photo with multiple people in the frame to show scale. This was also shot just before the leaves began to change, I think the green throughout the image frames the falls so well.”
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“This is the New Paltz Water Street Market at golden hour. I loved how the light came from behind the building and gave a nice glow to the tree in the background while still letting light pour into the deck. The colors mixed with the overall Americana vibe give the image a nice flare while working alongside the tones of the wood deck.”
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“This photo was taken steps away from the first in the Water Street Market. The soft light provided by golden hour gave the sky a gorgeous mix of blue and yellow, while the clouds on the left of the frame added texture. Also, the top of the building in the lower section gives context to the image, while the top portion with green offers up great contrast and a fixed focal point.”
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By: Kerri DiSalvatore
Fix It. Brandice Daniel Talks Inclusivity, Positivity and Success T hrough persistence, passion and sending a post-meeting “Thank You” cupcake, Brandice Daniel has become a shining example of positivity and success within the fashion industry. Her achievements are unparalleled, and her zest for life is equally unmatched. As CEOof themulti-million dollar fashion company Harlem’s Fashion Row (HFR), Daniel has been amplifying the voices of multicultural designers for over a decade. HFR is an uplifting platform that works to connect up-and-coming fashion designers of color with career-defining brand partnerships. HFR gives these talented creators unique opportunities to jumpstart and further their fashion careers while creating a community of encouragement. Daniel’s celestial smile and visionary ideas are captivating, but her reputation in the world of fashion is just as intriguing. She emphasizes the importance of vulnerability when building one’s brand in the fashion industry. She credits true, unadulterated authenticity for her success. Daniel is proof that accomplishments are achievable; with hard work, a smile and dedication, a future of success is inevitable.
“ If one human can accomplish something, you can accomplish that same thing. Anything possible for another human is possible for you, and it is possible for me.”
KD: How would you summarize your success story, for readers who are unfamiliar with your work? B: “I would summarize my success by saying I started a company, Harlem’s Fashion Row, with just an idea —an idea with no connections, no relationships — and have been able to turn that idea into a multi-million dollar business. A business that serves designers of color and connects them with companies like Nike and Banana Republic. At this point, we’ve been able to serve over 200 Black designers, which is a proud moment.”
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“ Art can really paint a picture that connects with people. It is almost like connecting with people’s souls. And fashion has the ability to do that too.”
KD: How can white professionals best use their own privilege to assist people of color in succeeding within the world of fashion? BD: “I think it is [by] opening doors. And so, what do I mean by that? For example, we started a non-profit, Icon 360, and Icon 360 partnered with Ray’s Fashion. Ray’s Fashion was started by two white women, and most of their board members are not Black. They’ve done a really incredible job of using their privilege to help open doors for designers of color. Sometimes that’s by calling a buyer to see if they can get them through the door. Sometimes that’s calling a factory to see if they can get a lower price on samples, based on their relationship. Sometimes that’s taking the time to look through a designer’s business plan and connect them to their personal network. It’s basically been about physically opening doors. How do you open doors? How do you take what you have and say: How can I use what I have, my relationship, my status and use that to help a person of color? ”
KD: How can social media create a community for minorities looking to help each other succeed? BD: “I think you can create anything you want on social media. I see social media as my classroom: A place where we are all in class together, and as I’m learning, I teach. I think sharing some of the backstory is helpful for creating that community. People don’t want to see only your highest moments; they want to see your backstory, the struggle behind your story. They want to know that you are human, just like them. People wanting to build a community have to get a bit vulnerable and open up, in order to build real connections through social media.”
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KD: What strategies do you use in creating a close-knit community within your brand? BD: “Authenticity has definitely been a tool for us. We’ve been able to build great relationships by just being ourselves. When I started HFR no one knew who I was; I would have to go to ten events and introduce myself to the same person every time. You have to learn to not take anything personally. Another thing that I do is send cupcakes; I used to send cupcakes all the time when I would get a connection’s office address. It’s a little difficult to do now, but you can still send a Starbucks gift card and say, ‘Coffee is on me today.’ Reaching out and showing gratitude is always a good way to stand out and connect with people.” KD: Can fashion be used as an art form to create positive social change? BD: “Art is so powerful, and it is unfortunately underrated ... I looked at a photo last night on Instagram. It was so powerful, I couldn’t stop looking at it. It was a powerful story of the injustice that has been happening, and this artist decided to capture Ahmaud Arbery’s face in a picture. I can’t even explain everything I was feeling; I was so compelled I could hardly go to sleep. I was thinking: What else can I do? How else can I help, right now? Art can really paint a picture that connects with people’s souls. You can see a piece that you know someone has spent a lot of time creating and you can’t stop looking at it. When a designer has worked on a collection as a true artist, it’s like going to a fashion museum.”
KD: How do you go about presenting a design in a visually exciting way? How do you recommend designers put out their collections? BD: “So, I think the first thing a designer needs to do, before they ever sit down and design, is to think about their intention. Why am I doing this? What am I trying to communicate to the world through this collection? What do I want to say, and how can I do that through this collection? When a designer starts froma place of ‘why,’ it informs everything.”
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Brandice Daniel working with aspiring designers and creatives.
KD: What advice do you have for people of color who are struggling to overcome racism and prejudice in order to achieve their career goals? BD: “You have to make a decision. Make a decision on what you want for your life. And when you make that decision you’ll know what you need to do. If you’re at a company and they’re not valuing you, leave. Go somewhere else — because that’s not the case at every single company. Speak up. Have conversations. The last thing I would say is know “the game.” Many people of color go into the industry naive about what it takes to move ahead, what it takes to be promoted. Study your environment. Find someone who will be an ally, someone you can get the answers to the hard questions from. That person isn’t always Black; I’ve had tons of support from our Black community, and I’ve also had support from white women. So, I think it’s to find your allies; it doesn’t matter what color they are.” KD: What advice do you have for people who struggle with social anxiety, to overcome that nervousness and put themselves out there? BD: “It’s practice. In everything we do, we are building a muscle. We are born with certain muscles. Others get stronger throughout the years. We are constantly having to build that muscle. I wasn’t really good at public speaking for a very long time. I would get up and say ‘uh uh uh…’ So I took improvisation classes! Improvisation was incredibly helpful in giving me the skills necessary for talking with other people. Networking used to be very hard for me. I would go to events and struggle to start a conversation with the strangers surrounding me. You can never undervalue training, coaching and personal development — personal development is probably one of the most critical things that you can do for your own success.”
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“ At the expense of sounding cliche, anything is possible. And even what you don’t think is possible, it is possible.”
KD: any recommendations for books or things people of color can do to study “the game,” or learn more about the fashion industry? Do you have BD: “Teri Agins has two books that are fantastic; I would tell them to read both of those. They are incredible. One is ‘Hijacking the Runway.’ The other is ‘The End of Fashion.’” KD: What is one piece of advice you would like readers to take away from this conversation, as they fight to change the world and make it a better place? BD: “At the expense of sounding cliché, anything is possible. And even what you don’t think is possible, it is possible. But, you have to be willing to go for it — and that takes courage. It takes faith and it takes being uncomfortable. But it’s possible. So many things happened in my life that I couldn’t even have dreamt of. Sometimes we see a problem and we think: Somebody really needs to fix that ... Well, that somebody is us. We are the somebody to fix it!” •
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PHOTOGRAPHY BY: HARRY BAHRENBURG
Here, expression projects its inspiration onto the dance floor. We free ourselves from inhibitions and barriers with the pop of an oversized collar, sway of tassels and layer of mesh. When worries are gone, glitter, color and sequins are in; we are finally free to shine the light hiding within. Lets dance.
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Model: Justine Surena-Mattson Designer: Jillian Cardarelli Hair: Kristina Villanti Makeup: Chaiyah Chambers
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Model: Loren Spence Designer: Michaela Ceci Hair: Kristina Villanti Makeup: Chaiyah Chambers
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Model: Justine Surena-Mattson Designer: Francesca Antico Hair: Kristina Villanti Makeup: Chaiyah Chambers
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Model: Loren Spence Designer: Caitlin Magrane Hair: Kristina Villanti Makeup: Chaiyah Chambers
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Model: Justine Surena-Mattson Designer: Francesca Antico Hair: Kristina Villanti Makeup: Chaiyah Chambers
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Model: Loren Spence Designer: Natalie Ford Hair: Kristina Villanti Makeup: Chaiyah Chambers
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W hen I was 13-years-old, I watched the movie “500 Days of Summer’’ 13 times over 13 days. At the end of this binge, the image of Zooey Deschanel’s bouncy bangs kept me awake with envy. Within the confines of my childhood bathroom, I took a critical look at my own lackluster locks, which a brutally honest classmate once described as “dishwasher brown.” Grabbing the same scissors that my middle school friends and I used to slice a DiGiorno Four Cheese frozen pizza earlier that week, I sheared the ends of my hair, watching snippets of “dishwasher brown” fall into the sink. As the strands circled the drain, I waited for the inevitable transformation into the loveable nymph I had watched on screen. My Motorola Razr flip phone vibrated as one minute passed; the glasses resting on my nose fogged with the breath of anticipation. Once I had gained enough strength to meet the mystical figure sure to be in the mirror’s reflection, I was shocked. I had not transformed into the adorkable ingenue I admired on screen. Instead, an awkward Abercrombie Kids-wearing tween waiting desperately to hear back from competitive Irish dance tryouts stood looking back at me. “ This companionship is merely a daydream of Hansen’s, a desperate attempt to capture the attention of his whimsical crush — Summer Finn . ” In 2007, film critic Nathan Rabin coined the term “Manic Pixie Dream Girl,” (MPDG) within his criticism of the movie “Elizabethtown.” He described Kirsten Dunst’s character, Claire Colburn, as the MPDG archetype. Rabin argued that the MPDG was a fantasy figure, “existing solely in the fevered imaginations of sensitive writer-directors to teach broodingly soulful young men to embrace life and its infinite mysteries and adventures.” Deschanel’s “500 Days of Summer” character Summer Finn played the blueprint MPDG, invading the minds of indie hipsters and middle school misfits alike. “500 Days of Summer” is the story of the relationship betweenthefictional characters TomHansen (Joseph Gordon-Levitt) and Summer Finn (Zooey Deschanel). What seems to be a Pinterest-worthy wonderland of affection, serenaded by an impromptu elevator rendition of The Strokes, is eventually revealed to be a figment of Hansen’s imagination. This companionship is merely a daydream of Hansen’s, a desperate attempt to capture the attention of his whimsical crush: Summer Finn.
- Tom Hansen in 500 Days of Summer
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A character like Finn “tapped into a particular male fantasy: of being saved from depression and ennui by a fantasy woman who sweeps in like a glittery breeze to save you from yourself, then disappears once her work is done.” The iconic MPDGs are innately quirky, acting childlike with specific interests and endless amounts of free time to gain their co-stars’ affection. Zooey Deschanel bats her eyelashes while playing the ukulele in “New Girl.” Kirsten Dunst abandons her job to help a stranger out of a deep depression in “Elizabethtown.” Natalie Portman makes burying a dead hamster a romantic moment in “Garden State.” And Kate Hudson stages a coup to take a teenager’s virginity in “Almost Famous.” When Rabin wrote his critique, he neglected to mention the fact that the MPDG would entice pre- teens in ruralWisconsin toplayhairdresserwithpizza scissors. MPDGs seemed like the perfect example of a grown-up woman to an impressionable eighth-grader. They seemed beautifully unique, tackled obscure talents with ease, and in the meantime, gained all present male affection. To an insecure 13-year-old sitting in a lime-green room, with contrasting zebra-print curtains, the MPDG represented a fantasy of post-puberty bliss. All I wanted was to have someone so completely mesmerized by me that I could look in the mirror and feel mesmerized too. As I aged, my lime-green walls faded to a shade not quite as revolutionary — and I realized that paint would never look as bright as it did to the girl who watched “500 Days of Summer’’ 13 days in a row.
My MPDG fixation persisted into high school, continuing even after my makeshift hipster bangs morphed into a curtain of hair now described by my hairdresser as “honey brown.” But, the moment I officially outgrew my attachment to the MPDG occurred in an unassuming fashion classroom at Marist College. On a whiteboard dusty with the remnants of the last class’s lecture, the professor projected Chanel’s F/W18 show. As I watched models wearing feather-shouldered coats pose before a faux forest of Karl Lagerfeld’s own composition, I felt a “500 Days of Summer” - type of fascination wash over me. “I was, and am, a character with nuance — someone who exists beyond the idealized realm of the Manic Pixies.” ” Sitting at that misshapen wooden desk, I realized I was in the grip of a fantasy —the same kind that had bewitched me when I was 13. It occurred to me that even if I had looked up from that hair-covered sink to find ZooeyDeschanel lookingback, I wouldn’t have been fulfilled. I was, and am, a character with nuance–someone who exists beyond the idealized realm of the Manic Pixies. My muse wasn’t a singular character found within a 103-minute-film, trimmed with crisp trailers and ending with a curlicue “Fin”! My muse didn’t dwell in an idealized dystopia, an incarceration of forced quirky curiosity. My muse was the feeling of creation and connection. I found my muse within my first friend at Marist, who explained New Jersey mall culture for hours while we sat in the dining hall over plates of breadsticks. My muse wore face gems in a humid fraternity basement with me, while Grimes blasted through the speakers. My muse showed me how to make a pants pattern as she sketched in her cramped basement, between a dress form and an oversized couch. My muse marched with me through the rain at a Black Lives Matter rally. I abandoned my MPDG in the reflection of my childhood bathroom mirror when I found my muse at Marist. Now when I look in the mirror, I can’t help but be captivated by what I see.
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Words From My Muses:
Susan Korn the designer for the beautiful beaded brand : Susan Alexandria. “My muse is anyone from another planet who comes bearing gifts from that world. In a more practical sense, muses are people who march to their own beat. There are a few people I know who I’ve begged for a sliver of their brain. Just a little sliver! People who are so brilliant and creative that it blows my mind. My friend Todd Heim, who goes by the drag name Steak Diane, is a perfect example. He is entirely himself without any exception. We worked together on my first ready-to-wear collection and created an amazing adult Bat Mitzvah-themed party to showcase the clothes. ”
Paris Starn the designer for picnic-perfect brand ; Paris 99. “Cooking became my muse during the pandemic. With fashion, the creative process can be short-lived; you find your fabrics and trims; you make the patterns, and you conceive of a photoshoot–that’s it. The rest is business. With food, the creative process can be repeated daily, and during the pandemic I really needed that. Food is also a comfort for everyone, and I needed a lot of comfort this year.”
Maya Cait - Art History 22: “I always listen to punk rock while I am painting; it really gives me creative energy! I love the musicians Maggie Lindermann, Grimes and Ashnikko. That whole punk aesthetic, with gothic lettering, graffiti style art and the deconstructed/reconstructed look is so cool. My favorite poet is Dante Alighieri, I just made a canvas inspired by Canto Number Four in his book The Inferno. I was so inspired when he wrote ‘For these defect,/ And no other evil, we are lost;/ Only so far afflicted, that we live/ Desiring without hope.’”
Alexandra Laucella - Fashion Design 22: “Jane Birkin has always been my muse. She defined provocateur and femininity by showing off her haute-hippie style and free spirit. She has a classic look with a mixture of rock and roll. To me, was the face of French fashion in the 1970s. As a designer, I focus my inspirations on empowering femininity and I feel that she represents that to all women, by defying the norms in society and making a change on her own.”
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OF STUDENT P H O T O G R A P H y
“The inspiration behind most of the photos I take comes from music and me wanting to try new things. I took this one on the bayside of Long Beach Island, N.J. during the sunset. I was attempting minimalism, while retaining as much color as possible. I am really happy with this photo; it shows I want to be a photographer who focuses on content over quality.”
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“This photo is me trying to find my editing style as I fall in love with the post-production process. I love the look of old animé, and the idea that the artists scanned their color and lines in on separate pieces of paper, causing moments where the figures wouldn’t be aligned. In this portrait of my girlfriend, Dylan Skinner, I tried to emulate that practice in my own way by playing with black and white photos as a base for shadows and highlights, and then I pumped my own colors in.”
Harry Bahrenburg ‘21
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Olivia Cole contemplates love in the age of Snapchat.
SNAP OUT OF IT By Olivia Cole Your Manual For a Snapchat Relationship
Snapchatting is MUCH more strategic than you thought.
If you have ever swiped right on a Beach Blonde Surfer Boy who is more model than fisherman, flirted with a Frat Bro draped in awrinkled button down shirt over a half empty Bud Light, or made eye contact with a Music Connoisseur wearing small pink sunglasses behind you at an ODESZA concert, then you and I are very similar. You are confident and determined, but spend your free time daydreaming about the boy you met last night and what your future twins, Charlie and Henry, will look like. After messaging the Surfer with a clever pun, dancing with the Frat Bro, or pushing through the crowd to try on the Connoisseur’s bubblegum-pink sunglasses, you will inevitably give “Mr. Right” your Snapchat, leaving you thinking one day you will live happily ever after. Unfortunately, in my experience “Mr. Right” always disappears, leaving behind the unanswered Snapchat icon and the memory of stale, warm Bud Light. However, in hopes of one day finding my Prince Charming, I have crafted the perfect manual for growing a relationship over Snapchat. I know just how to decipher that one life-altering Snapchat. Whether you have been dating for years, have just matched on Hinge, or are secretly flirting with your old piano tutor, I have you covered.
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